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Yup. Darn blades won't hold an edge long because the metal is so soft, but it won't rust either. So I have to resharpen it often (both the knife and the scissors). But I don't mind. I keep that thing on my keychain and use it frequently throughout the day, not just for fishing. Best of all, if I accidentally bring it with me to a security checkpoint, I can just toss it in the trash and buy a new one. Its best qualities are that it's cheap enough not to get attached to and small enough not to be noticed.

I'll climb trees and take my shoes and socks off to wade in. If I can still see it, I will get it, somehow. If I can't see it or get to it, then I'll usually break it off. My wife will tell you it's because I'm cheap. But I think it's more because I just don't like being taunted.

I don't know what category this falls into, but I routinely run into guys at the ramp who are extremely rude to their wives/girlfriends. Last fall I had a guy backing his boat in next to me, and he was right friendly with me. One of his kids came over and started talking to me, and the kid was a bit rude, but only in the way that an 8-year-old doesn't understand, so I didn't take any offense. The dad was taking care of all of the last-minute things, like popping in the plug, and then hopped into the boat and told his wife to throw it in reverse, punch it, and then slam on the brakes. Well, she managed to do that, but he started yelling at her that she wasn't doing it right. Another try, and now he's calling her all kinds of names in front of their kids. Another try and he's explaining to her why she's terrible at everything she does. Another try and he yells at her to stop, gets out, and removes the straps from the back of the boat that were preventing him from launching. He didn't say nothing to her about it either. Many years ago, I probably would have said something to him about treating people like that. But I've learned that confrontation in those situations just makes the problem worse, and unless she's asking for help, she'll probably turn on you too. I would have only angered him further and exposed her for her willingness to put up with such nonsense. So I just went on my way and felt really bad about not doing anything.

And as suggested, try changing the frog out. I keep finding frogs, so I haven't bought one in years and I don't entirely know what brands I have. But I do know that some of them walk pretty easily, and others almost can't be walked. I have one that seems to want to hop out of the water more than anything. It sits in the water with the nose pointed almost straight up and the underbelly is shaped like a boat.

I won't say that I've caught more fish with a clawless crawfish, but I certainly still catch fish with them. I won't throw away a soft plastic craw just because it's lost a few appendages. But I won't clip off the pinchers on purpose either. I typically just don't replace the plastic until it has problems staying on the hook. Honestly, I think it all has more to do with the action, color, and size than any details in the shape. I don't think bass are smart enough to recognize a claw or leg just by looking at it. If they could, I highly doubt they'd ever eat a spinnerbait.

It should come in around $200-250. The hitch will be about $30, hitch receiver about $150, and wiring kit will be about $30. And you'll have to get plates for the trailer in NJ, so that's another $15 or whatever. And I don't know about the 2002 Taurus, but some cars need holes drilled into the frame or other modifications to install the hitch receiver, which might require buying a new tool, depending on the job and what tools you already own. There should be YouTube videos out there walking you through an installation that you'll want to watch before going down this route. But it's typically a fairly easy DIY job. Maybe 1-3 hours. Probably a 20 minute job for someone who works on cars a lot.

I don't know how to count it because I fish every day on my lunch break. So that's 260 days a year, where I fish for maybe 15-30 minutes. Then add to that probably 3 weekend days a month on average where I'll spend, on average, 6-8 hours fishing. So on one hand, I could say I spent about 300 days fishing last year. But it may be more accurate to say I spent 36ish days fishing.

The foam pool noodles will compress, and you'll want to replace them periodically. As you can see, I used four. Two were strapped down at the far ends, and the two in the middle rolled freely. I've put them at the back when loading, so they'd roll forward with the kayak. But with the upside down kayak cart strapped to the tip of the trunk, I could easily lift this 90lb kayak, even with my herniated disc. Here's a link to a video that shows the basic idea. They're doing it with an SUV, but it's the same principle, only the cart lays flat instead of hanging. https://youtu.be/s7gQKKBV648

If you don't care about the car, get some pool noodles and stuff them with PVC pipes for support. There should be a size that fits snuggly inside them. They'll roll across the top and give you a way to roll the kayak across the top. However, they'll compress pretty quickly and the roof isn't made to hold much weight, so they'll also dent and scratch your roof. Also, and this is important, make sure the roof is rated to hold the weight of the kayak. Look for dynamic, not static weight ratings. Otherwise you can crush your roof, break your windows, and destroy the car. As for getting the kayak up on the roof, buy a kayak cart that doesn't have any crossbars on the bottom, or ones bent out of the way, like the one pictured below. Then flip it upside down and strap it tightly to the trunk. Lift the bow of the kayak onto the wheels of the cart and walk around to lift up the stern and you can roll the kayak up the trunk and onto the foam/PVC rollers on the roof. Then insert you foam blocks under the kayak at the front and back edges of the roof where the roof is most supported. Strap it all down and you should be good to go. Reverse the process for kayak removal. A more permanent roof rack would be a better, but more costly option. They also make temporary ones that might be worth looking into. But the upside down kayak cart will really help with getting that heavy kayak up and down.

Yeah, I don't know why most commercially made kayak trailers use those car top mounts to hold a kayak when those PVC runners are cheaper and make so much more sense. Why reinvent the wheel?

The problem with BFS reels is that in order to cast ultra light lures really far, they have shallow spools to lessen the weight of the spool, so it spins up faster. If you're casting a normal sized lure from the bank you could easily cast out to the end of what a BFS reel can handle. If you're wanting more casting distance from the bank, I suggest making sure your rod is correctly matched to what you're casting. Also, it helps if the rod's action matches the speed at which you can cast. So a slower rod will give you more distance if you're a slower caster, while a faster rod will give you more distance if you can really whip that stick. The rod works best when it rebounds at exactly the right moment, and a lot of variables can affect exactly where that point is. Also, a longer rod will provide more leverage and increase distance. Also try upping the weight on what you're throwing, if you can. When I'm trying to launch a T-rig out there really far, I'll use a 1/2oz.- 1oz. bullet weight, like you'd use for punching mats. Only I won't peg the weight, and let it slide freely (like a free rig). That way I have the weight to really cast it far, but with the weight sliding freely, I still get a slow sinking action. It's not perfect, but if you need to get out deep, it's the best method I've come up with.

In Oklahoma, you have to register all boats over 8ft., but not kayaks and canoes, so long as they're propelled by paddling. And you have to separately register any motor over 10HP. Motorized and peddling kayaks aren't specifically mentioned, so it's not exactly clear where they fit in with all of this, according to the letter of the law. It could be argued that you have to register peddle kayaks and kayaks with trolling motors. But the way everyone treats the law (dealers, law enforcement, and the general public) is that you don't have to register a kayak, motorized or peddle powered, unless the motor is in excess of 10HP. Oddly enough, you also don't have to register a racing boat, regardless of size or horsepower. Our laws were written to make revenue, not sense.

The best spots are usually the most packed. In the age of online satellite maps and social media, if you find a good spot, word will get out. I know of a few lakes and rivers that are never busy. But they're either a long drive, in a dangerous area, or filled with garbage (or some combination thereof). And none of them are good fishing lakes. But you can still catch bass on them, and if you crave being alone more that catching fish, they're good places to be. They also benefit from the age of the internet, in that everyone bad mouths them, so no one is willing to check them out in person. And while none are good, none are as bad as what most people say they are.

I bought some Yo-Zuri Top Knot fluorocarbon mainline (they make a leader version that I've never tried) to use as my mainline because it was dirt cheap. I found it way too stiff and unmanageable for a mainline. However, I've found it to be a pretty good leader material! I think it's a 100% Fluorocarbon, like the old Trilene stuff, which I also have used as leader material (for the same reason).

I use mine for topwaters, lipless cranks that will be ripped from weeds, flukes and wacky rigs. Plus other presentations from time to time, as needed. Like if I'm switching back and forth between two sizes of squarebills, I might use this rod for one of them as well, so I spend more time fishing than tying knots.

I'm of the opinion that the lure rarely matters. Especially with soft plastics, where it's all about the presentation. I'm the type of guy that if it ain't working, I'm gonna take the blame for it myself. I'm not gonna say "they weren't biting Junebug Rage Craws this morning". Instead, I'm gonna say "I spent way too much time on that point that wasn't producing when I probably should have hit that bank earlier". So I'm not effected by options. Besides, I like to stick to what I've had success with in the past. A new bait is a new learning curve.

I was just thinking, "didn't I see a couple of these rods in the last BPS catalogue? And didn't they want like $100 for them?" But no. It was MLF rods, and they were from Abu Garcia. Then again, adjusted for inflation, wouldn't a $40 rod from 2008 be around a $100 rod today?

That's a good price. I'd still try to see if they'll let you try it out first. Or at least, sit in it and make sure the seat's comfortable. You don't know how important a comfortable seat is until you've sat in one that isn't for 8 hours. And since everyone's body is different, everyone's idea of a comfortable seat is different.

See, now I'm on the opposite end of the fence. I'm always getting mad at how companies want to throw a million ball bearings into a reel, twenty layers of carbon fiber drag, all metal frame, and all of the other marketing mumbo jumbo, but won't spend any effort towards the engineering and tolerances of the darn thing to actually make it a good reel! I can't stand it when companies let their marketing department do all of the engineering. Don't build it to sell. Build it to work!

It could have just been a bad batch. I bought them all around the same time and at the same store. But they put a bad taste in my mouth. And with so many other good options out there, I have no desire to ever try them again.

Even though I'm an Okie, I don't care for the Oklahoma blades. I find what I need with some combination of the willow, Colorado, and occasionally Indiana blades. To me, they fill a gap that doesn't exist. I'm not saying they don't work. I'm just saying they don't do anything new for me. I greatly prefer the War Eagle spinnerbaits over the Booyah Coverts. The regular Booyah spinnerbaits are great as well. But the Coverts keep wanting to foul up on my line, either on the countdown or on a pause. They look nicer and better made, but for whatever reason, they've given me more problems than any other spinnerbait I've ever tried.

Honestly, neither of those tickles my fancy. When I launch my kayak, I'm usually having to step in water that's deeper than either of those will allow. If I'm not launching off a steep ramp, then I'm launching in some sinking mud. For those situations, I just use some cheap Brazers boots I got at Academy a few years back. I was planning on replacing them with something better when they wear out, but four years later, I'm starting to think these are better built than I thought. I double up on socks on cold days, so I can control the amount of insulation I have. The NRS boots you have are what I'd stick with. Then, when the water gets warmer, I'd just take some old running shoes or whatever you have, and drill holes in the bottom. Or get some Crocks or whatever you like. I'd be afraid that low top boots like those would just get water inside them and hold it all day. Better to either have something that does a better job of keeping water completely out, or letting water freely flow out, rather than having something that does neither very well.

I'd definitely go with the 12' version if you can swing it. It'll be much faster and more stable. Plus you'll have more room. If you ever fish a big lake with power boats, you'll be glad you did. The Sportsman is a little better built than the Mirage. It's more in competition with the Hobie PA 12 than the Mirage. Plus it's wider and more stable. However, the Mirage will probably be quicker through the water (and easier to peddle). But it's up to you if it's worth the extra money. Buy once, cry once, as they say. And I'd recommend seeing if you can find a place that will let you try out both before you purchase either. But both are good options.

I would just buy a few lures to start. Figure out what works for you and what doesn't. Then, buy more in different colors and sizes of the ones that were working for you. Don't buy a whole bunch of new lures at once, if you're not experienced with fishing them. It's too hard to put in the time to learn the quirks of that lure, if you've got a million others to go through. And then you'll just have a giant collection of lures that don't do you much good. If it's a lure I haven't tried before, I'll just buy one. Usually in a high contrast color, since most of my lakes are on the stained side. If I wind up liking it, I might buy another in a different size or color. If it makes it into a regular rotation, I'll buy one in a natural color for the rare times I do actually fish semi-clear waters. I'm of the philosophy that it's better to have 5 lures that you're really good with, than to have 500 lures that you're not familiar with.

I've got a couple of friends who are mechanics. They always say to avoid dealerships unless it's under warranty (because then you usually don't have to pay). They told me that dealerships don't pay mechanics well, and they usually hire kids fresh out of trade school. Then, when the kids get some experience, if they don't get promoted, they often leave to open their own shop or work for an independent shop that pays better. So you're usually paying more for less. Now, all of that being said, finding a GOOD independent mechanic isn't always easy. Some of those shops can be dishonest and others won't do a good job of keeping up with the changing technologies. And dealerships are at least good about keeping up with new tech. As far as the honesty thing goes, that's hard to say. I know I've had issues with dealerships in the past wanting to do unnecessary work, but I can't say how much of that is dishonesty and how much of it is just them not knowing any better and misdiagnosing the problem. Your best bet is to ask around and see what other people's experiences are. One of your friends knows a good mechanic. Either way, moving into a house with a concrete driveway instead of gravel has allowed me to completely remove myself from that dilemma. With my instructor, Dr. YouTube von Google, there's not much I can't fix myself in less time and for less money.