.RM.

I agree with Mike, both reels are using the same drag pads so there must be some lubrication (oil/grease) getting down into the pads. Good Luck & Tight Lines!

Those bearing retainer clips are not anything your ever going to find at Menard's, HD, Lowes, etc. Each reel mgf uses a different wire size for their retainer clips. Contact Daiwa direct and order a few, sometimes if the people at the parts desk are in a good mood they will send them nc. But for parts like those always go to the mfg........... Tight Lines!

IMPO I would take the reel back to the service shop. In my shop all reels serviced are covered for the whole current season, don't know if DVT, or your service guys do this or not. But if you have never worked on a reel (yes even flushing bearings) I wouldn't recommend that you try. Basic lubrication of the reel should get the noise problem taken care of. Good Luck & Tight Lines!

The Premiere is the same as the Mojo only the Premier has one piece straight grips were as the Mojo has split grips. The other main difference is the Premiere is built in the US as were the Mojo is built in Mexico.. Good Luck & Tight Lines!

To me it looks like an old (50's era) Pflueger that someone took a grinder to.

I would agree with Mike, with only one issue on the round reel. Comfort/balance when handled with the rod over a full fishing day.. Tight Lines!!!

Great Reading............... Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101 Tight Lines All!

Try this great reading Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101 Plus Practice! Practice!

There is nothing wrong with the Mojo when new. Because it isn't in a rack and you can't eyeball the rod, I probably wouldn't jump into the purchase. Used rods can have small nicks in the finish especially around guides from normal to rough handling by owners, these nicks can cause the rod to explode on hook set. Good Luck & Tight Lines!

Call Shimano direct with the part numbers...........

Actually all warranties (since 1997) are held by Shimano/Loomis Gary Loomis (North Fork Composites) are no longer associated with Shimano/Loomis Tight Lines All!

The answer to that question will be personal preference of the builder. Each builder will have his/her's own preference on what blanks they like to use, and what they can get. Personally I liked using the full line of St Croix blanks, and when Gary Loomis restarted his new company I really like using NFC (North Fork Composite) blanks. But it will be up to you and the builder you chose......... As far a re-using a GLX rod to strip and re-load, I wouldn't waste the rod....... Good Luck & Tight Lines!

That doesn't sound like a bearing. It does however sound like you are missing a RD3455 (spool washer) there is usually a stack of 3 sitting on the spool axle just under the spool. It adjust the spacing of the spool edge from the rotor when oscillating on the inward stroke. If the stack isn't properly spaced, I would look in the box for the extra one. If the washers are all there, I would return the reel.Good Luck & Tight Lines!

When applying new grease to the main drive gear. Get yourself an acid brush trim the bristles down to were they are fairly stiff. Then when applying grease to the gear force the grease down into the bottom of the gear teeth (main drive gear only). The use of a Q-Tip to apply grease will leave unwanted balled up greasy cotton on the gears. Apply all oil to bearings etc, with a needle-tip oiler. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!

Some easy reading: Baitcaster Setup 101 Tight Lines!

If I were wanting to build on blanks that acted like the OLD Gary Loomis blanks, I think I would goto Gary's new shop site NFC (North Fork Composites) looking at what he is doing now and comparing. North Fork Composites Tight Wraps All!

Some builders I know have used the injection method to help add weight to the rear of the blank. But just to help counter a tip heavy stick/reel set up. I pour my own custom sized lead weights that are anchored into the blank for exact neutral balancing, at the time of the build and after if needed. Tight lines All!

I use Flex Coat products. Size of the hole would be dictated by the size of the injector. Try looking at the tackle craft section of Cabela's, Mud Hole, etc. Good Luck

When I was repairing rods. When I'd get a rod with that complaint I would consider the removal of the rear grip cutting off the reel seat and rebuilding a new seat and grip from the rear of the rod. Then was taught a new proceedure that was drilling of small injection holes at various spots around the rear of the reel seat were it connects to the rear grip. Then a top of the line rod building epoxy was injected into the hole's and let cure. I have about a dozen rods that are still holding today with that type of repair. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

I agree 100%. We have found this is usually the problem on all of the Revo 2 piece spool support systems that start making noise after a few outings. Not sure polishing the 2 friction points is a good idea thought (because of tolerances). Tight Lines All!

Yea! What he said Great points........ Tight lines All!

Probably nothing, it sounds like a reel that has been cleaned and service properly for the very first time. Aside from maybe needing new shims, most properly serviced reels take relearning when done right. Setup the reel with the rod using the suggested line/lure weight for the rod. Then start test casting to find the proper reel setup for your style of casting... Tight Lines!

Yea, check the worm gear for any gummed up grease, clean the gear and re-lube with oil only. If no improvement remove pawl cap and check the pawl for wear. If worn replace the pawl. If you don't feel you can take care of it, then have the reel professionally serviced....... Good Luck & Tight Lines!

While ABEC7 would be an upgrade, I wouldn't waste the money when ABEC5's would do the trick. Also I definitely would not go with the Hybrid's or Ceramics just straight Stainless Steel. just my .02¢ Tight Lines!

Didn't know the E7 was discontinued when did this happen?Almost sounds like the AR pack has been installed upside down. The AR Bearing pack doesn't get greased, nor do the other bearing packs.. But if the crank won't turn in either direction, I would check to see if I have lost any of the small pin bearings in the pack and make sure the the pack hasn't lost any of the holding pressure points. Also make sure the AR Pawl is set up properly and not causing a bind. I would also get into some 4x glasses and check the sleeve for hair cracks especially near the tabs. Good Luck & Tight Lines!