.RM.

IMPO I would call Shimano direct and ask for a replacement set for the reel, make sure you replace all of the bearings for spool shaft support.Tight Lines!!

Avid's 15-1/4" handle length, as apposed to your Dobyns if it has the split grip it is only 13-1/2" handle length. The difference in length will add the weight (more cork) your feeling. If that Avid was built with the split grip the rod would be about the same weight. As far as tip heavy IMHO all stock factory rods are slightly tip heavy. To balance out the angler will have to add either a slightly larger (weight) reel, or some other weight to the butt section of the rod.The LTB is a split grip rod running the grip length of the Dobyns, and would be a little lighter in the same length. But would probably still be slightly tip heavy.. Just the thoughts of a custom builder.... Good Luck & Tight Lines!

Custom's and only spiral wrapped custom's......

Sounds like the screw was cross threaded when installed and has set that way for awhile (and locked). We have seen some like this. Side plate screws are easily cross threaded when placed in a hurry. Properly when the screw is placed it takes at least a half/full turn in reverse to seat it properly then tightened down (you can feel it seat). If the screw head has been bunged up to the point that neither a slot or Philips will bite, as posted by Mike it will take an easy out or drill out to get it out. I would contact Shimano direct to see if they can do the job for you, or, find a good shop with someone who is really good at removing cross threaded screws... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!

Quick fix for no free spool: Take the crank side off of the reel. Hold the thumb bar up with your thumb. Now set the crank side back into place and tighten the thumb screws. Depress the thumb bar and you should have free spool. If not your not getting the small rod BNT 2650 that runs threw the thumb bar, to engage the BNT2083 clutch plate. As far as the clicking sound you had when cranking, that is probably the BNT1472 anti-reverse pawl, that needs to be re-set (it has gotten lose and is not holding onto the BNT1927 anti-reverse ratchet), the redundant AR backup. You will need a complete professional brake down to repair that. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

As a custom rod builder I can advise that if the guide wrap finish is cracked then water can and will get under the wraps. This will cause the wrap to become milky looking in time, due to moisture getting under the finish. Fix: Lightly sanding (1500 - 2000 grit) the finish and re-coating, with perma gloss, flex coat, etc rod finishes. If the rods main blank finish is cracked, then I would return the rod for a replacement. Super glues are not a fix as they are not flexible nor are they waterproof.... Just a builders .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!

Nope the bushings actually hold the worm gear cover in place.... Tight Lines!

Little Screw... If you turned the pawl cap which holds the level wind pawl, all you did was add a little pressure to the pawl. There is a small shim/spacer that is in the cap that adds the right amount of pressure to the pawl. If it is missing turning the cap will help until the pawl wears enough to have to tighten the cap again. Usually when this is done enough you will pop the cap with the threads right off of the pawl then you will need a new part. Check to see if the shim/washer is there, by unscrewing the cap. BTW when the D series reels came out they had an issue with the line carriage being to tight on the tolerances and binding (not traveling) and they (Shimano) had a fix. Tight Lines!!!

Try an old school technique for flipping. Set your drag to almost max 7lb., now when hook setting lay your thumb across the spool to keep it from turning. After the hook set take the thumb off of the spool and use the 7lb's of drag set to fight the fish. If you need intermittent times of tighter drag, lay the thumb over the spool as needed. Its called feathering the drags. Believe me you can achieve more drag to bust a rod with on hook set with the thumb than with the reels drag... Be careful... Good luck & Tight Lines!!

Need more info what brand/series is the reel?

As far as weight distribution type of balance it's not that important, most all rack rods are tip heavy (no matter whats mounted). But when it comes down to balance of the system (properly lined reel, mounted to the proper rod with the right power/action, line and lure) now that is very important... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!

Do a Google search for Antique fishing rods.. You might try this site... Earl's Antique Tackle Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

Just keep in mind, that is just a temp fix. The way you have been adjusting cast control is the cause and flipping the shim will only be a temp fix, cause it will try to dimple on that side also. Call Shimano and get a couple of extra shims for when it falls out of adjustment again.. Good Luck & Tight Lines!

When the exporting gets back to full swing in Japan is probably when you will see parts order caught up from any and all reel mfg's. Part # 1125835 I checked my parts bins, sold my last one. We had to start carring them when we started getting a lot of them comming in cracked.. In the earlier series S reels, that part tended to crack and loosen up on the spool shaft. You might try Southwestern Parts & Service Tight Lines!!

Access the palming plate shim by turning and unscrewing the turn key, remove the side plate..CAREFULLY remove the bearing retainer clip, remove the bearing, the shim (BNT0664) will be sitting directly under the bearing pack. For the parts in the Cast Control Cap: BNT1696 cast control spacer BNT2224 spool tension spacer (shim) Never work on a reel without the schematic in front of you!!! Good Luck & Tight Lines!!

If that CC shim was in a CI reel we received for service, it and the shim from palming plate would/should be replaced automatically. The dimple in it is the cause for a lack of CC adjustment. In the Curado there is a rubber backer that sits under that shim so it will not lose adjustment. The fix: If you have another shim replace the dimpled one, if you don't have another clean the one you have flip it over and re-oil (one drop). You should have adjustment them, but you do need to have a spare shim for both the CC Cap and Palming plate. Good Luck & Tight Lines !

Have been doing business with Shimano for over 27 yrs. They have always done CS that way... Tight Lines!!!

You have had the reel over a period of time setting it up almost the same every year or close to it. The reel over time keeps breaking in and the spool support shims dimple and wear. This year your reel is saying to you that you need to have it service properly, and you should always do a full setup after relining a reel. Make sure the reel is mounted to a rod, with the proper size line for the rod, and you are throwing the lure weights the rod is rated for.. Turn all brakes off, set the lure drop rate then re-set the brakes. Test cast to see if things change.. Good Luck & Tight Line!!

X2 Tight Lines!

I would start by setting the lure drop rate (cast control) with ALL The BRAKES turned off! Then once the drop rate is set, start by setting all brakes back to 50% and if you still aren't getting your distance and the system (rod/reel) is balanced, drop to 40%, 30% etc.. If still not getting your distance then it might be time to tune your reels... Good Luck & Tight Lines!

Most likely T is talking bout his round Garcia's. Engaged line carriage. They were part of the design thought of friction reduction of the unspooling line against the line carriage wire on the cast. Thought was they would cut down on the friction if the line carriage was to peel with the line (in sync). Problem was that if you crank a blank tag end past the line carriage it would put the spool and the line carriage out of sync. Today's reels are mostly disengaging line carriages. If he's not my mistake.... My simple answer no reel advantages/disadvantages. Tight Lines!!!!

You fish a salty environment, you need to fresh water rinse the reel every time out. Then do a total break down to C&L the reel (frequency) dependent on how often your fishing. You may not feel it in the crank, but very fine sand and salt particles are in the reel/s and, will mess up gears and other parts over time without proper C&L........... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

3 things come to mind. 1. Use of braided lines with out a backer...Slippage. 2. Water on the drag pads that cause a slip, should have corrected by adding small amount of drag pressure... 3. To much oil in the reel and it has migrated to the drag pads. Correction clean and properly lube... Good Luck & Tight Lines!

Make sure the reel is spooled with the line dia. it is intended for..14/120, 16/100 If you have the lateral play in the spool (CC) set to lose it will allow a small dia line to slip into the spool race... Good luck & Tight Lines!!

I have to agree with Ronnie. It would serve you better to get into a kit, from MudHole, Cabela's, etc. Also before you make that purchase, get a copy of Rod-Building Guide by Tom Kirkman. Read it end to end, then make your decision on whether or not you want to get into the art of custom rod building...... Tight Wraps All!