.RM.

X2Or mine.............. Tight Lines!

I would hold off and get a decent reel grease and oil. As far as were to put it, the main gear teeth, any return springs, return ratchet slider, pinion yoke and risers... No oil on drag pads.. Oil only on any exposed parts like the worm gear for the level wind, and the pawl... Tight Lines!!

I have a few, 3 CU201B', a 5001C Garcia, 4601C Garcia... Tight Lines!!!

D= Series designator PV = Power Version SV= Saltwater Version Tight Lines!

cwen, Free spool (Lure drop rate) has nothing to do with the drag pads or the key washer in your reel. If your drag stack was wrong you would have trouble cranking the reel....... When you hit the thumbar and the reel is in cast mode (free spooling), can you loosen the CCC (cast control cap) and get lateral play in the spool? If not, sounds to me like you have something binding in the palming side bearings/shims, or the pinion yoke is slightly binding, from the re-assembly. The scraping/rubbing sound is probably the spool rubbing in the frame race. I would almost bet you have left something out that keeps the spool evenly seated in the frame. Just an old service techs .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!

When I fill my Garcia Round reels, I find that if I do it with the reel rod mounted I have to check to make sure the reel's line carriage is in alignment with the first guide on the rod, or, it will cause the line to stack onto the spool to which ever side the reel is leaning off center on. If I am just holding the reel while re-lining I can control how the line is stacked by turning the reel either right or left slightly while cranking. Just some old fa*ts .02¢ Tight Lines!!

They are called spool washers, (they sit on top of the Spool Support) or clicker. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!

Perfect explanation Also the main reason when they first came out they were called multipliers or multiplying reels. Tight Lines All!

Like Mike stated. It's Grease and water, Shimano always greases the worm gear cover to keep level winds moving right out of the box. A quality service will change it all. Tight Lines!!

Yes I do know salt water fishing, and salt water gear. Worked half day boats out of San Diego for a lot of yrs.... I will say it again! Fishing reels only hold, retrieve, and pay out line. They do not fight fish. The angler and the rod fight. Now if you want to state the whole system fights the fish fine, that would include the angler, reel, rod, line, hook, and lure. But it wasn't the quote is.......

This is correct. Wrong! Fishing reels don't fight fish, they store and pay out line. Fishing rods, line, hooks, and lures catch/fight fish.As far as to what hand you crank a reel with, the first statement is the truth. Use the rod with the power hand and crank with a setup accordingly. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!

I would venture a guess that as you kept cranking through the binding you have wiped out the idler gears teeth that drives the worm gear, that runs the line carriage (piece that goes back n forth). You need to have a pro or the mfg service your reel. Good Luck & Tight Lines!

Do a Google search for, Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101, it will show you how to get that rod/reel setup properly.

Well I would be interested in reading about how you did servicing your reels with the vid.

Yup sure can, just like ejtaylor, and DVT stated, but is better done on a blank before the build than after or even on an older rod. You will need to take care to really clean and remove all of the old thread finish and blank coatings (un-less a matte finished blank). If not then you may have problems getting the paint to coat the un-prepared area. Good Luck!

Yes they are, less tendancy to have the tip twisting when in a fight. The ability to use heavy gear on a BC rod with the stability of a spinning rod.Tight Lines !

The reel has a drag pad, or drag spring washer problem! You just got brushed off. 8-) I would return the reel for a cash back and purchase from another source. I would not hold onto it while the store deceided to get more in stock, could not happen until late in the season. Good Luck & Tight Lines!

This website censors all of my site address'. Just click the WWW button on this reply and use the my sites map to navigate to the my supply shop. Tight Lines All!!

I did a build when Gary made his first run of MB blanks (MB 705-1 (IM), it was the #15 blank of his grand opening blank run. I wrapped it split gripped, and spiraled w/alconites. The rods finished weight is 3.5oz. Probably one of my most sensitive and lightest pitch'n sticks I own. You will truly enjoy the rod..Well worth the blank price. Tight Wraps!

Just take your oil and a small brush. Brush a small amount of oil onto the frame. Let it sit a while, then wipe off. You will be surprised at the out come...... Tight Lines!

X2

Correct! Super Tuning is a process by which you polish ALL free spooling friction points on older reels to bring them up to today casting abilities. Trying to tune the new 2 piece spool shafts doesn't work, there are usually only 2 bearings that are part of the free spool assembly now. The spool shafts aren't part of the spool any longer. Lots of reasons why new series reels don't really need tuning. BTW tuning isn't part of upgrading (ie bearings, drags, etc.) Good Luck & Tight Lines!

Are you testing the drags with the reel rod mounted and lined with the scale off the rod tip? If not none of your results hold water. Unless your using one heck of a stout rod your not going to get 24# drag test off of the reel. Thought you guys new how to properly test drags....

Although no longer being offered, there are quite few G. Loomis blanks still on close out. And at the risk of suffering the wrath of "The Posse" there are other very high quality blanks out there. Lets not forget that Gary Loomis has opened the new blank company called NFC (North Fork Composites), there are some very high quality blanks coming from him again..... Tight Lines !

There are no secrets, just plan on having to break the reel down to just the set plate (frame). Then using the proper sized driver carefully break the screw lose (so that you DON'T damage the head of the screw). Then remove the screw/s, being very careful not to lose the spring that shares the drive shaft retainer. Good Luck & Tight Lines!