bulldog1935

The thumb bar on the x600 reels is part of the frame, and sold with the frame. It's not an outrageous part - I bought a pretty NOS one recently from UK for $20. Probably a tough color frame to sell, but it looks pretty good on my black cherry. Kind of a long story, the plastic foot from the Royal Express II frame kept spitting out of my application reel seat. Funny thing, the metal-foot frame was just as light as the plastic-foot frame.

that's going to be correct - look at it all as being modular. Take photos to refer to later. Take the handle off first, end caps, side plates, spool. The LW takes a little coordination to put back in the frame, but it all makes sense. The brake-plate drive assembly is a jewel. This a little different, 5500C3, aftermarket stainless ball-bearing drive, but again, the mechanism is simple and easy to work with - these parts would load right onto your brake plate. The only part that is different is the link to the push-button. This completed drive would go right onto your frame with my side plate. ps @Yuddzy - when you're removing the C-clip ("E-clip") from the main shaft, it takes the tiniest jeweler's screwdriver, and do it in a shoebox, or with you finger solid over it, so it won't fly across the room.

I primarily fish inshore from a kayak on the Texas coast. There's a lot of overlap between bass and inshore tackle. I can recommend TackleDirect as a great place to shop. Rods, hard to go wrong with St. Croix, a bit heavier but a great rod is Crowder made in Florida, also 13Fishing Omen Green. Best baitcast reel is Lew's Super Duty G, and best spinning reel is Shimano Stradic.

Asian Portal probably contracts their English interpretation - most of Japan does. English-speaking people are at least as hard to find in Japan as Japanese-speaking people are to find here. It takes awhile for your e-mail to be forwarded, interpreted, sent back, and reviewed. If they wrote you a reply, it would have to go back through the interpreter again. I can think of exactly six people in Japan I have communicated with over 20 years who have a working handle on English - one of them was a guide in Montana before returning to Japan. English is just as foreign to the Japanese as Japanese is to you.

It changes when you attack the inertia in the spool and level wind. When they're low enough, you can cast without spool tension. When the lure weight is low enough, you can cast without centrifugal. This is my 1500C, inertia is low enough, the centrifugal is removed, there's a spacer in its place, and mag brake popped into the centrifugal race using only 2 magnets - this is a reel for 1/16 oz. The end cap will only tighten enough to almost take out end play. Raced-out LW, shallow lightweight spool, micro-spool-bearings.

First thing on an old Ambassadeur is set spool tension for your casting weight. From the rod tip height even with your head, you should have enough spool tension set so the reel will not backlash without thumb when you let the lure fall to the ground. It should just hit the ground and stop by itself. Now you're ready to cast. Selah. _____________________________ Of course you use centrifugal brakes on Ambassadeur - it's almost like you don't have a choice. Freespool + centrifugal brake was the Ambassadeur patent. The only adjustment on the reel is the spool tension - you adjust it as I described above.

JP Tackle News only has this blurb, comparing Nasci to Ultegra. https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/shimano-autumn-winter-2021-spinning-reels/ If you wait around for the '17 Nasci in this hour-long Tackle Advisors video, he notes the main gear doesn't have bearings, but rides in plastic "bushings" cast into the side plates. Noteworthy, '21 schematic shows this has been partly remedied, and your new reel apparently has main one bearing. (Part #65)

Mag brakes work better on the light end for preventing mid-cast wind backlash, and maximize distance. Centrifugal brake works best at preventing start-up overshoot with heavy weights, and costs distance with lighter lures. The OP asked a simple question. No pontificating required.

You'll have fun with that - easy to replace the drag washers when you get inside to clean and lube. You can find schematics both on Abu Garcia website and E-Replacement Parts website. You can probably even replace the faded Ambassadeur sticker. Two places I know that sell the stickers in Japan, Haneda Craft and Hedgehog Studio. Of course either one should be a significant parts order to cover shipping cost - and you need a broker like noppin.com or ZenMarket to buy direct from Haneda Craft (Hedgehog sells some Haneda Craft parts). My 4600C began looking like this, 6.3-geared Royal Express II, and it was a happy ebay snag for $90, my BIN offer accepted by a level-headed estate hunter:

I would stick with Ultracast spool models, 4500 C3 and newer. There are so many good parts made for them I wouldn't buy into post-'95 is junk - the reel just above began with a NOS '01, raced out for braid, 100% backlash-proof casting 3 g to an ounce (I was targeting 1/2 oz). You can buy stainless steel drives, BB low-inertia level-wind parts, mag brakes, great spool bearings. You can get new parts on E-Replacement Parts. You can turn them into little rocketships. 4500/4600, 5500/5600, 6500 are all the same diameter and different spool widths. (this is a NLW surf reel that will cast a half-ounce to the proverbial 100 yds on 8' rod)

can't do it - there's not a bum in the crowd I could pick a least favorite, Omen Green 7'7" ML spinner, but then I can also pick a niche where it's the exact rod to load in the kayak.

Al good suggestions on this thread, and I'll add a recommendation for Daiwa MagForce and improved SV brake system as the most forgiving for someone new to baitcasting. If you'd like to learn a bit about backlash and braking systems, I wrote this primer on the 3 types of backlash and 4 types of casting brakes.

Made me look at some of my received packing. All in light but extremely stiff round, corrugated tube (cardboard). Plat used corrugated plastic pipe. Except my 1-pc Valleyhill from AP came in a heavy square-section cardboard tube with a Daiwa label (probably from a rod they received) - guess I got lucky.

FedEx conveyors are the death of many packages. Over 20 years, I've purchased a dozen +2 JDM rods without any damage. I've always been impressed with the quality of packing on these rods - some seem like you could drive a UPS truck over them without damage. Most recent rod purchases were from Plat, Asian Portal and FishingShop,kiwi. I'm curious whether quality of vendor packaging was a factor, and what Japan vendor you used.

Used nothing but Big Game 12-lb all through the 80s and most of the 90s - everything from bass to near offshore king mackerel. It more than covered all the drag you could get from a Penn 4400SS. Switched to Seaguar fluoro for its advantages in salt (and superior knot strength over other fluoro). BB-25 loaded with BG. I've never found stretch to be an issue, even on lures/hooks that require hard strikes, and the lure maker recommends fishing braid to eliminate stretch. Worst complaint about mono/fluoro is line memory, and good braid will make you forget line memory ever annoyed you. Bad braid has its own set of annoyances.

and people complain about kitty torture jokes.

Look at antique baitcasters. Anti-reverse and even freespool wasn't the norm until Ambassadeur. For example, check out this old Pflueger Alpine on ebay. Large diameter for big cuttyhunk linen line - you could use heavy mono or big dacron braid. Good handle and leverage. No freespool, no anti-reverse, and a simple clicker. Even a leather thumb-brake. You can finish your crane using a short, heavy-action boat rod. In a smaller reel, old Lew's BB-1 are reversible with a select-slide button, but the anti-reverse dog is prone to fail.

If I had a Silver Wolf,, which may happen before fall, I'd still use my Roro-X spool on it, and it would be a noted improvement. You can't have too many line options around. I would have still bought the spool to supplement the Daiwa spool - you never know when they will be available again.

C2000S is the shallow braid (or UL mono) spool - this is on a Vanquish C2000S JDM lists capacity as 100 m 4-lb mono

There is no 2000 body, but a 2500 body shared with 3000 reels. The C2000S will be the small frame with the larger diameter shallow spool You should be able to identify the frame size by comparing listed weights. good JDM chart here

@WRB is exactly correct about keeping cast trajectory low for big wind, into or across. The idea is complete the cast before the wind can catch the line. You can get better distance with the light braid on baitcaster, certainly more line sailing on spinning reel. Baitcaster mag brake can help here.

I fished through a handle (sans BB) and two anti-reverse dogs on my first Lew's BB-1. Luckily, Roys in Corpus bought up the parts inventory after Zebco stopped supporting the reels. My first Lew's Super Duty is almost as night-and-day better and more versatile over the BB-1 (even BB-25) as the BB-1 was over Ambassadeur, and definitely built to fish longer and harder. Fond memories are great, but it was an easy choice to retire my last BB-25SW.

Water and fluorocarbon have very low but real chemical solubilities in each other. The color is caused by tannin water diffusing and reacting with the resin - the "breakdown" factor is not significant, though fluorocarbon is supposed to dissolve in water over long times.

I'm guessing this is an UL, maybe a multipiece. I would contact Daiwa US and ask about sourcing a new tip section from them (while you still can). You may not change the rod action that much with just a replacement tip-top, since it flexes through the length.

melted cooler ice wouldn't work for me - that's where I float my fillets. We never freeze fish - I keep ice water in the cooler until the fish is eaten. Noteworthy, warm water is a better solvent, but cold water is a better rinse, precisely because it's not as good a solvent.