bulldog1935

Orange anodize always looks sharp.

Patrick, this will make us conversant - the JAFTMA spec chart for PE braid, measured in traditional silk thread diameter scale, Gou normally stated as PE# This is the line rating you'll find on all your JDM rods. Get your mind set on diameter and forget about lb-test. I run nothing but PE braid + leader on all my tackle, from limestone creek to surf. PE#1 is the same diameter as 4-lb mono. This is go-to for most bass-finesse fishing. The smallest I'll mess with on baitcaster is PE#0.8, but I do run #0.6 on finesse spinning tackle. Most of my inshore set-ups fish #1.2 with 15-lb fluoro leader, for shock tolerarance and abrasion, and don't go lighter than 12-lb hard leader or 10-lb soft. I fish PE#2 on frogger and surf, and my leaders are 19-lb to 40-lb. Also remember, all these JAFTMA numbers are max breaking strength rather than a nebulous lb-test number. (from YoZuri International website - compare test to IGFA breaking strength) I keep my leader down to 2' on micro-guides, with perfection loop on the business end, and loop on micro-swivel snaps, titanium-wire bite traces, and paper clips. 4+' leader on full-size guides, and 8' to 12' in surf. That's what I do - - others will give you other success stories.

SV refers to the lighter Daiwa magforce brake rotor, and you can't go wrong with Tatula 100SV for casting light lures and on up to 1 oz. No casting brake is easier to set up. Skip-casting is in the rod, especially the rod tip. I have semi-para ML/L rods that will cast a light lure into next week, but won't skip-cast 20'. Other, progressive tip rods that will skip a weightless senko like a bullet a foot above the water. A 3" weightless senko matched with #1 hook is lighter than a loaded 2-g JH. Both of these light weights are in BFS territory.

I bought Lew's SP when it first came out, and soon discovered my mag-brake Super Duty G blew it away by 20% for casting light weights - sold SP. Centrifugal makes more sense for heavier weights. Linear mag gets increased distance with lighter weights. This eventually led me to Daiwa SV, which is the best of both.

In Receivership, the bank that has taken over the business will take your funds to pay off the debts of the business. Go to your credit card company and reverse the charges. If by miracle you receive your order, your credit card ompany will then straighten out your payment. Find another vendor. @catch anything - doesn't work that way - ^ see abive ^ that's why they call it receivership

Picked up quick and for a good price should be the goal. 4000-size Stradic will find the best market among Gulf coast anglers.

There is a mass and wind-inertia difference between Stradic and Vanford. Vanford uses the lightened rotor from Vanquish. Otherwise, Stradic and Vanford drives are identical, and I can't tell the inertia difference between Stradic and Vanquish unless I'm comparing them side by side, and the difference is subtle. (Vanquish has Mg body and spool, titanium bail, and more BB). I use them both, and wouldn't replace Stradic - could consider adding another reel for the different qualities, lighter finesse lures, etc.. In the long run, I think Twin Power will out-last them both, but the more the merrier.

You'll find a strong market for OG Daiwa on TT forum.

Those of us who came from here and especially who tinkered with this for fun probably count as having thumbs with post-doctorate degrees. We pretty much keep our thumbs close enough to the spool to read what's going on and react with gradual thumb-feed, modulated brake, or a light in-and-out touch as needed. It becomes instinct to gradually ease thumb away from spool start, give it the lightest possible touch right before mid-cast, and adjust final elevation and stop during lure fall. Dating myself, in the early 80s, I was fishing Millionaire 6H. Two overhead 2-hand casts where you're slowly feeding line with your thumb through the entire acceleration arc are the two extremes of casting weight: weightless bait with forward centrifugal cast; and surf cast with 2-oz spider weight plus that much meat again. The technque for both produces maximum acceleration and distance with minimal start-up jerk - only 40 years ago, it was instinct on rod feel and spool timing. It was probably easier to recognize on these old reels that jerk = backlash. It's also easier to describe physics of spool inertia than to describe the feel of rod loading. With modern brakes and light spools, you should be able to set up most reels as 100% backlash-proof over a wide range of lure weights and air-drag qualities. Though it's also easier to get by with bad rod-loading habits, including jerk. Still, keeping thumb instincts handy and part of the cast for a first cast or two when you change lure weight and drag qualities, gets you through confidence and proof that the cast will go well with less thumb. I set up this reel today in two casts and made several more casts for grins. The set-up included finding mid-cast fluff with weightless senko, and adding the mag notch to dial it out. It will fish 3" weightless senko to 1/2 oz without ever needing to adjust the mag dial again, and will never backlash If I hand it to my buddy Lou, that would be different. He casts spinning tackle without loading the rod - he casts with 100% jerk - and catches fish. In fact, I have two friends who never load the rod. They swing the rod back, stop and look forward again, letting the rod completely unload, then cast with jerk. Can't do more than cringe and let them fish. But if they asked, I could explain the difference. Rod loading - simply swinging the rod back, the lure weight puts an elastic bend in the blank - following through with forward cast in a continuous motion, the rod unloads like a leaf spring to add lure speed and cast distance. The long arc of a centrifugal cast loads the rod the same way, also increases lure speed by acting like a longer rod.

The fly rod and the baitcaster are much more complimentary than either with spinning tackle. Wrist snap with spinning tackle is extra distance. Wrist snap with baitcaster is backlash, and with a fly rod, it's tailing loop.

Going out with your reel properly set up and known is how you concentrate on the water, never think about the reel, and never backlash. Tuning a reel isn't practice, it's making perfect. If you know how to set up your reel, you're done in 2 casts, which could be Alt title for this thread.

made it from Palo Duro Canyon and was fishing Cheeseman Canyon in 4 hrs, 10 min.

save the coffee or catch a fish

@redmeansdistortion - the beauty of 2-hand cast for distance - aside from Big increase in rod/line/lure speed - the follow-through is never in your wrist, but passing the rod from your grip hand to your rod-butt hand. First 1/4-oz 2-hand cast in the back acre with 5500CT and 8' ML surf-lure rod (not really trying to cast distance), cast went across the fence, 75 yds into my neighbor's back acre - oops.

PureFishingJP led the way in package BFS reels in JDM. On the demo video for my favorite shore BF rod, Mr. Yamaga is fishing Revo Elite 7-L (he always saves the good fish for the end)

The fish do care. There's a long list of advantages to baitcast over spinning tackle, accuracy, exact distance controlled by your thumb, tight-line casts never fouling line on hooks, instant retrieve, cranking power, nothing like line twist, and if you want, you can set up a baitcaster to cast 1/4 oz plug to 200'. Unlikely to set up a spinning combo to do this - and if you did, by the time you got the line tight, you'd probably miss striking the fish. I measured this (2-hand) cast on google earth. Unfortunately, when the tide began to swing out and the fish turned on, a half-dozen dolphins showed up and ended the fishing - it's OK, we had a great 2-hour drift back home on the flat, and I caught a (legal) spec limit. All the problems with spinning tackle are related to slack line - line twist, runaway line in wind, fouling line on hooks, no control on cast elevation for final distance (B/C thumb). I would say these become less important fishing short flips with wrist snap. You can also limit adverse slack line effects with manual bail technique. Except for a line wrap on the rod tip in 2018, I honestly can't remember backlash, and have to talk about it from basic principles. If you're getting backlash, you address it by analyzing where it's occurring in your cast. (hump photo dropped from link below)

horse hockey Abu Garcia Svangsta stopped making Ambassadeur in Sweden in 2024. They moved production to Poland. @WRB-2.0 Ambassadeur S is made in China and shouldn't be compared with Svangsta reels. They were made for the US-curiosity market.

No reel is easier to set up for distance than Daiwa SV. The reliability is built into the brake design. It covers wrist snap bad habit, which is brought over from spinning cast. Something to keep in mind, any jerk in your cast, either from big lure weight or wrist snap, has to be subtracted from spool energy by start up brake, or it becomes backlash. Smooth acceleration through cast needs less brake, and more spool energy goes into distance.

line capacity is 200 yds 10-lb mono, so you probably want to back with heavier mono - use this line stack calculator: https://www.pattayafishing.net/advanced-fishing-reel-line-capacity-estimator/ @stk44 That's the whole point of the line-stack calculator. The more line length you spool on a spinning reel, the more the line management error adds up to hourglass, etc. Shimano line management is probably good for 250 yds, but if you use 100-yd 8-lb fluoro working line, you can stack it over 80 yds 15-lb mono to fill the spool, or even less backing if you use bigger mono.

Can't answer boo about Nasci since TackleAdvisors takedown of '19 $100 reels, but there are big changes between Ultegra and Stradic. (He mentioned Nasci smooth and questioned service life, especially compared to Daiwa BG). Ultegra is essentially re-issued Stradic FK (e.g., off-shelf A/R roller bearing, shorter spindle and spool pitch), while Stradic FL and FM incorporate all the changes to '18 and '22 Stella. That said, my buddy had fished Ultegra 2500 for four hard salt years and no problems (at least until he left in on Daiwa BBB rod in a NYC rental car).

harrumph.

Unfortunate with current tariff situation, you'll find the most options in JDM. You also need to clear up whether you want spinning or baitcast. Small-frame Ambassadeur, 1000S Shimano (JDM).

I thought this amazing rod was discontinued. If it meets your budget, it's a do not pass go rod.

@herder Here's my CS Rocket built on Akios barstock frame.

@redmeansdistortion Coronet spool dia. is only 16 mm, spool flanges only 12 mm apart. You use the panic button to thumb the spool.