bulldog1935

pretty d**n tall horse indeed Have you thought about speaking for yourself rather than simply contradicting others who are trying to help the OP, or engaged in a conversation with other members?

stainless doesn't wear, it just work-hardens. UK custom machines 6.3 gears for round Abu (that's like 9.3 gears on LP bait). These are 5.3 stainless gears.

@new2BC4bass I finally killed my 4400SS lifting big mackerel below the boat. But I still fished it intermittently another 10 years, mostly fishing baitcaster, before adding Libra SX3000 (read 5000). I was really happy when Shimano introduced the '19 Stradic, in 4000 size, perfect for my inshore niche.

all the makers share common manufacturing technologies and design goals, and smokescreen them in silly marketing tradenames - a technique in business marketing classes that's academically called The Snow Job. To our OP's question, the best way to look at reels is the IPT - inches of line picked up each handle turn. Spool diameter is part of the formula, if you look at a round Abu with its big spool, 5.3 gears are just as fast pick-up as 7.5 gears on the smaller-spool low-profile bait reel. Most reels are going to give you a working IPT of 30-40 inches - below that range is slow, and above that range is f'n fast. As far as spinning reel handle length, think you may be looking at it wrong. A longer handle lets you put more torque into the reel. It also has the effect of slowing it down, since you travel farther to complete a handle rotation. Conversely, a shorter handle has the effect of speeding up any reel, since you can spin it really quickly. I personally don't like gears past 8.0, on bait reels, and 6.0 on spinning reels, unless I put a longer-pitch handle on them. I know we have BFS and offshore spinning reels, but traditionally, bait reels are about power, and spinning reels about finesse.

A buddy hooked a good size sunfish on his fly rod, and brought it in wedged in the mouth of a 4-lb largemouth. An acquaintance on TKF forum posted a photo from Lake Fork of a respectable bass he brought in wedged in the mouth of a larger largemouth. We accused them both of baitfishing

Orange anodize always looks sharp. Lew's picked it for the Team Pro SP, Tica used it for trim on Libra SX, and Daiwa offers a whole range. Daiwa ran a color aftermarket parts blitz in Oz/NZ called the Custom Project, that also made its way to Europe.

It's been described enough different ways and even diagrammed. Then other discussions took over, kind of norm for the forum. any list of threads diverted by Mr. Francho would be grossly abridged.

ok, we need a photo on a new page. I haven't bought a fly rod for hill country endemic bass in awhile (I've also sold a few to fund other projects). When a friend pointed out this desirable Phillipson from 1966, I set up an ebay snipe and bought it for a very fair price. I've had the Hardy reel for a long time, but this venerable glass rod will do anything a 9' graphite 5-wt will do, and fits in tighter places.

sorry there, bro @garroyo130 The best one made for hex-shaft is the Dress Origin, also sold by Hedgehog. Hedgehog makes their house brand. There are also cost-effective hex-shaft choices from Gomexus and China. This one from China has both the 3-mm thread for Daiwa and the 3.5 mm thread for old Shimano. Hedgehog has this page that explains the different types. It probably shows that I can't imagine a spinning reel without one of these for a hook keeper.

If you want it to work and wear 30+ years, stick to Gore-Tex (and the brands that use it) My Marmot light shell and Hagloff's rain pants were both closeouts bought at sierratradingpost that many years ago.

In s. Texas, I'll take the cool respite, because last week was too early summer hot and humid - a month ahead of when it normally hits. It is surprising to look at the 10-day forecast with a few lows in the 40s. Now I get pleasant cool weather when I chop the back acre next week.

@BassWhole! An e-friend whom I've never met, but we go Way back on venerable glass fly rods and vintage reels - after I posted a "pimped" Tica on FFR, Paul sent me 5 new Ticas with a blank check to customize his - I shot a lot of photos to communicate with him, and my choices critiqued and approved by his daughter's artsy eye. While I've always done some of this, a 20-yr hobby business repairing antique reels and speculating in antique tackle bought me a lot of toys - 2020 needed stay home hobbies, and courier from Japan was the only functioning shipping, so some of my tendencies fleshed out a bit. Even before then, my close friend Lou, who both fishes and cycles with me regularly (most every salt trip) had me order him a compliment of the Tsubaki hook keepers for all his Shimano's - that's the style keeper in the first 3 photos of the post you quoted. I've been shopping in Japan a long time - back when you had to use a broker, both because of language barrier and Japan banking restrictions. Masamichi at noppin.com has ordered me a bench-made fly reel, a rolled-from-scratch inshore S-glass fly rod, delivered my first Japanese XUL Rockfish rods more than a dozen years ago, and more recently brokered these trick add-on hook keepers for Livre reel stands that only come from Squid Mania.

they're made to replace the handle cap on spinning reels, can't imagine rigging anything quite like it on a baitcaster. The pop-out hook keeper designed into some baitcaster frames will give you a functioning hooker if your rod doesn't have one, but they're too close to the rod to help with trebles like the spinning reel add-ons.

On spinning reels, what the Japanese call a reel stand makes the ultimate hook keeper. This one is made by Tsubaki, and quite inexpensive - the plug is 6" offshore topwater with heavy wire 1/0 trebles. It also keeps your line from getting twisted and braided in the guides. Inshore, with a baitcaster, I'm mostly fishing swimbait hooks for weedless, and the rod hook keepers work fine.

I'll add a vote for longer ML rather than shorter UL. (Finesse spinning fits here, too) Long ML spinning rods are made with a soft tip that will do anything the UL will do. They also have a powerful butt section for turning big fish, which a short para UL can't do.

Sorry, just can't like photos that make me sneeze. We have the Munsters plague of oak caterpillars. You can tie a really good fly on a 200R hook, a pair of goose biots for the clinging tail, olive wool dubbing with gold wire wrap and black thread to finish the head. Tying this fly can be creepy - you keep checking your hair, back of your neck, and inside the back of your shirt for the one that's crawling on you.

Tica Libra SX1500 or the worm drive Tica Samira SAAT 2000H is my choice for a long-lived $100 reel. Amazon sells them.

stripers will eat cut bait, too ok, then, bull redfish and black drum, big sow speckled trout, snapper - cut blue below - we fished through our bait on opening day, and I got up on the bow and caught bluefish on my fly rod - the samsonite snapper was caught on cut blue. Any list you can put together will be abridged.

@Bass_Fishing_Socal The one that's on the black Tica above (and on the big Tica below) is just about my favorite "reel stand" hook-keeper, and has a stainless hook keeper that won't take abrasion. Here's the Daiwa/Shimano common from a US vendor (they still source from Japan and takes a few weeks, but a good buy. (the Dress Origin reel stands for Daiwa hex shaft, 3 mm stud, you can only source in Japan; also note Ver3 is offshore size Daiwa)

offshore topwater plug UL jig hook (+stinger) Circle hook on my surf reel You can also pin the line for a complicated rig in the o-rings and take the hook back to your line guide frame. hard to see, but there's a rigged wakebait on the left and the line will never be twisted on the rod or braided in the rod guides, not even in the dark

Instead of screwing directly into the main gear, the old style folding handle uses a keyed shaft that goes through the main gear to the handle nut on the other side. Shimano used a square shaft with 3.5 mm threads on the handle nut. Daiwa uses a hex shaft with 3 mm threads on the handle nut. Unfortunately, they don't make these cool upgrade parts for Shimano, but these IOS hex shaft adapters work with Daiwa and Tica, allowing you to replace folding handles with fixed Daiwa handles.

I'll agree with @swhit140 The LFS frame reels are stouter, the P2 pinion is a great durability upgrade in this reel, and Lou's mag brake doesn't add any mass to the spool. It also lets you change spool bearings, and not affect the drive, since the P2 drive bearing is separate from the spool/spindle. Looks better than my Super Duty G, which is my workhorse reel, and at lower cost.

PE# (Gou) is the traditional Japanese measurement for silk thread diameter - It ends up being a whole easier scale to compare lines than comparing 1/1000ths inch or 1/100ths mm - and how all Asian rods are rated for lines. (Korean rod with Japanese line rating) Japanese Silk (japantackle.com) https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/japanese-line-size/ It's Jun at Japan Tackle who says PE#1 is the finest you want to use on a baitcaster, primarily to prevent line dig-in

answering the OP - until it tastes the steel.

Spool depth/capacity is a deciding factor in what line works and lays best on a reel. 1000 size doesn't quite define that, and you're going to find a fairly wide range of spool depths and capacities in 1000 size reels. 100 m of quality 4-lb fluoro isn't enough on many 1000 spools, and might find that 6-lb is just perfect. You're going to get much better line lay by fitting the correct line diameter for the spool design than by stacking extra yards to fill a spool. This is YoZuri 6-lb copolymer on a 1000 spool, and next is PE#0.5, 4-lb fluorocarbon on an 800 UL spool.