bulldog1935

@newapti5 - with critical measurement, might be able to source the right size A/R roller bearing. You can find the Daiwa p/n here https://www.sl-planets.co.jp/shop/product/product.aspx?product=00613841 Search on ebay - also ask Hedgehog if they can source the part, which is where the link came from.

Segue for an essay - I hope building reels counts. I made my mark restoring OP's valuable antiques. (this one happens to be mine) I have friends who religiously clean and rebuild their reels every year. Granted, they fish inshore. Could also count as fun winter tinkering. But the only thing I do that fervently is oil spool bearings (drop or 2) before and after every (salt) trip. Also a chance to inspect critical parts for salt exposure. (rust in the magnets came from a non-salt-resistant spool bearing, and both got replaced) Given the quality of modern lubes, and the quality of seals on reel drive cases - even with salt exposure - I'm inside my drives every 3 to 4 years. (a different case would be dunking a reel). Recently overhauled a 25-y-o Daiwa, and it was pristine inside. I could tell the original owner had never been inside, because he stripped the loctite'd PH1 screw head trying to get inside. Drive and LW, the old grease overflow had all turned to wax residue, so all parts were cleaned and ultrasonic'd where needed. Stiff bearings replaced, etc.

200 yds of 20-lb mono is the best capacity estimate I've seen for 6000 (not 6000C, etc). I would plug that into the Pattaya Calculator, pick the diameter you want to load, and it will give you the spool capacity.

Since you're not casting, you should fill it up. My reels below, the logic is long runs from mackerel and cobia. Also extreme eyesight of these fish. While fluoro invisibility doesn't get a lot of respect on BR, it can be all the difference for fish looking up. Nylon mono absorbs UV, making a shadow, while fluoro transmits UV. Then of course, especially in the salt, fluoro has a sink-rate advantage because it's 70% denser than the water, and 60% denser than mono. This is my trolling reel (Seigler SGN), which has 350 yds 40-lb braid, with 25 yds of 30-lb Seaguar blue on top. The lure is Halco 110, kinda famous for taking kings even sitting still. I also have a slow-jigging reel which can double up for trolling. This one I use for casting, but it's casting 1-4 oz dropped on a slow flutter around platforms. It's backed with 200 yds 30-lb braid, and 50-yds 20-lb Seaguar blue on top. Spiral-wrapped rod. Caiman 150 is Ambassadeur 6000 size.

Yes, 5000 spool and 5500 spool are close-enough to the same capacity, etc. You can calculate capacity for different thickness lines using Pattaya calculator Advanced calculator lets you calculate stacked lines of two different diameters Look at this, I found the original manual: Note the "braid" reference is silk or nylon/dacron https://www.realsreels.com/Advertizing/English/Ambassadeur6009instructionssecondpage.jpg https://www.realsreels.com/Advertizing/English/Ambassadeur6009instructions.jpg

My fourth 34-mm Daiwa was SLP Works Zillion - based on HD, and doesn't come with spool or handle, which suits me just fine. Here, it's two different reels - 1/8 oz (more and less) with Ray's SV spool, and big weights to great distance with SV Boost (and will still cast light). Both spools above are shallow for braid. Throw in fixed-inductor super-light Roro, AMO or KKR spool, and it will cast 1/16 oz into next week.

My spinning reels are Shimano and swap spools - my baitcasters are mostly (34-mm) Daiwa and swap spools. The thing about Zilllion, you can set it up to fish 2 grams to 2 ounces. I've never understood try everything and see what sticks. Doesn't what doesn't stick end up in the closet?

There are now a few offering shallow-spool fit for Lew's SLP, but you find so much variance in spindles, spool diameter and bearings between different brands and models made at Doyo, you're unlikely to find one. If you can identify a Revo model that swaps spools with your reel, that would improve your chances of finding a match on Express website. This is what sent me five years ago to my first Daiwa since 1978. I did buy a Doyo-built ZPI Alcance for the matching 7-g spool (Mg + Ti), and fish this reel in freshwater BFS, but these spools won't fit any of the Lew's I tried. I'm going to add that lower spinning mass (inertia) needs less brake, not more. Casting lighter needs more mag brake to prevent mid-cast (wind) backlash, but casting light weight on light spool, you almost never need start-up brake.

Sounds like a Don't Do That moment. Every spinning reel made has a rotation position that opening the bail will interfere with the bail trip mechanism. I always position my line roller at top dead center to prep for a cast, and never had an issue. If you want some excitement, do it wrong on your big surf reel.

Cost of real estate is a big reason Japanese don't amass the amount of tackle we do. Limited time to fish is part of the reason they like high-grade tackle. Travel by train is a big part of multipiece and telescoping rods - encroaching on others' cramped space would lose face. The links I provided describe the Gami Luxe pack sizes match standard travel articles, including briefcase. The Luxe ad blurbs also show bike-pack. An FFR friend in Japan posts really nice bike-pack photo essays.

No, I have my multipiece rod niches filled. I did look closely at most everything out there. The Gami rods looked interesting, but I'm very happy with the rods I picked up. Though I do wish Transcendence made a BF version of the Batuta spinning multipiece. Most of their bait rods are aimed at offshore and shore-casting large jigs. They did offer 4/5-pc Pulchra BF, but its pack length was just an inch too long for my bike half-frame bag.

Two models in current stock: 6' light action rod is 6 pcs, packs under 11 inches. https://fishingshop.kiwi/GAMAKATSU-LUXXE-Pack-Style-A4-B60L/ 6'10" medium action rod is 7 pieces, and packs to under 14 inches. https://fishingshop.kiwi/GAMAKATSU-LUXXE-Pack-Style-B4-B610M/ I didn't need pack length less than 18", and my favorite casting pack rods are Daiwa Black Label and Legit Design Wild Side, both 5-pc. My favorite spinning rod is Transcendence, which gives you a length choice - 6'7" boat rod in 5 pc, or 8'0" shore rod in 6 pc - you get all 7 pieces. .

The tough upgrade from Stradic and Vanford is Twin Power. (Vanford is simply the new name for Stradic CI4+). The finesse upgrade is Japan-Market-only Vanquish. Stella is top-line with magnesium body and rotor, stainless gears. My assessment is Shimano worm-drive (Stradic-up) since 2018 is the best spinning design ever for hard use and long life. When you get to low-end spinning reels, Daiwa builds tougher reels. But he already has and appreciates the best - sounds like you should be looking at upgrading his selection, which is Twin Power and Stella.

I have a data point about (JDM) R18. My Steez has been used as BFS-mod for 4+ years. I first cast the stock 1016 spool loaded with 12-lb R18, and it's been away put for back-up ever since. Last week, I used the spool to test-cast a rebuilt CV-Z coming from my bench. The 4-year-spooled R18 was new line, with virtually no memory.

this is a '50s Ambassadeur tail plate with the Record stamp. Ambassadeur began as an upgrade to their Record direct drive baitcaster (no freespool). They bought the Record trademark when they bought Thommen spinning reel, the design they evolved into Cardinal. (Fellow-Swede Thommen was the earliest A/R spinning reel - the knurled knob on the handle engages a one-way friction washer on the mainshaft).

My Silver Wolf sports a Roro X-27 spool, and it's a baddasss BFS reel throwing 2 g past 130' on PE#0.6 (smaller braid than most want to futz) My stock 1000 SV Boost PE Special spool is a back-up PE#1.2 for my inshore ML reels. What you gain with Silver Wolf (Daiwa SS Air, Alphas Air, etc) is increased level wind pitch that prevents line dig using braid smaller than PE#0.8 (slot red on Silver Wolf) @Tennessee Boy fishes Silver Wolf with the stock spool for BFS and has posted he's happy fishing braid. Here's the chart that gives PE# diameter and breaking strength: https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/japanese-line-size/ @DaveT63 Alphas 800 will do the job if you want to fish light mono. Aftermarket spools are readily available on ebay, JDM vendors, Rorolure (Hong Kong) and A/E if you want to later add a shallow PE#1 spool.

It's a bushing reel -no bearings - but they're good reels with good bushings. Many aftermarket suppliers make bearing-size bushings to turn later -C reels into your reel. Some people prefer casting heavy weights using the slower bushings in place of faster ball bearings. They used serial numbers for first production, beginning 1954-ish. They switched to lot codes in the '60s, changed the lot codes to begin with the actual year in the '70s. Note if your reel was '50s, there would be a "Record" stamp on the tail plate. If you notice, I defer to Fred who knows more than I do - he defers to Simon Shimomura, who knows more than he does.

6000 uses a different lot code - the "Earliest" lot code on Fred's list. 10 is October, 05 is actually 1965, 00 is no revisions.

Fred Ribb is the place to start - https://lurelore.com/freds/abu.html#section4 this is 4500C, '78, February, no revisions (same as previous lot - '77) show us a photo of the reel

@newapti5 When I was putting my noppin cache together, which included discount lines and my favorite Tailwalk reel cover from Naturum, Masamichi scored my part from JapanTackle. https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/daiwa/tu000071.html btw, the only difference between CV-Z 103 and 105 is the spool depth - here's the original product blurb on JT https://japantackle.com/daiwa-millionaire-cvz.html Editing in a photo, here's the rod I'll be using with CV-Z for shore fishing next month - Lami MH/MTC Rogue River Special.

@newapti5 - I found my reel on ebay, saw it was from Japan, went looking for it on Yahoo, found the same reel/seller listed for $100 less (about half). The reel fits and throws my SV spools just fine. First casting trial was my stock Steez SV spool loaded with 12-lb Tatsu. With my long Lami MTC steelhead rod, 1/4 oz easily lobbed to 120'. I also tried to make it backlash both with jerk and high arcs, and the inductor/magnet match was good enough to prevent that. I have these nice rods that used to fish my Lew's BB-25SW, and I bought this reel to plug in there. _________________________ Swapped back to 1000S SV Boost spool and loaded with 5-lb Ultragreen to get a final mag set casting 3 g on shore micro-jigging rod, but rain this weekend, and I won't get to cast again until Monday. When it's set, spool will get PE#1.5 Varivas Si-X

IMO, his wind result looks like spool tension is too tight. I always make sure my line goes through the two closest guides on the rod.

tough subject to photograph, here's a 25-y-o monobloc Daiwa Millionaire CV-Z that's coming off my bench. The new handle is NS Craft with bakelite knobs. I plan to fish PE#1.5 with 3 to 15 g on my long shore micro-jigging rod, and PE#2 on my older Lami steelhead rods. This reel swaps spools with my other 34-mm Daiwas. .

The smaller diameter spool of Alphas (and Steez CT) does reduce inertia. But it's also a trade-off that the larger diameter Zillion spool doesn't have to spin as fast to achieve the same cast distance. Alphas and Zillion both have free-floating spool design. The full-width-spindle mass of Tatula spool also increases inertia, so the SV brake on Alphas or Zillion doesn't have to apply as much force to eliminate backlash, giving a distance edge.

I get it - we finesse fish hard in the winter. Our 5-year gang of small frame Stradic and Vanquish still fish like new. Go down this page and look at the rotor deflection animation in the middle of the page. https://www.jpfishingtacklenews.com/finally-shimano-announced-new-20-twin-power-is-tough-style-spinning-reel/ Spinning reel is the most complicated fishing implement ever devised. Stresses on the internal mechanism produced by long levers (spindle and rotor) were not understood before CAD in the last decade - everything before that was built by trial and mostly error. Spinning reels self-destructed with use from their own internal mechanisms. (Spinning reels bottomed-out in the '90s, trying to make them lighter weight, longer spindle, bigger rotor dia.) Even after a decade offshore, the best spinning reel made, Penn, didn't understand the contact loads on their gears that result from spindle and rotor deflection. Brinnelling pinion gear is a short-term overload, but all the smaller damage adds up over time to increase spindle and rotor deflection, and make the reel sloppy. When the reel is laying line in a reverse cone, it's been fished-through.