RDB

I think your primary problem is either with your reel set up or your casting motion. Fluoro will react differently than braid on a baitcaster. I’m not a Shimano user but I think even on the DC reels, they have a different recommended setting for braid and fluoro. On my Steez reels, I never touch my spool tension. If I need to make adjustments, it’s brakes only. As far as your gear, the reel is fine but the rod could be causing some issues. You mention a 7’ MH/F rod but there are so many differences in how those are rated that it has almost become useless. I like a longer rod that loads well but has some backbone. I use a 7’6” MH/Mod composite rod (Alpha Angler) but there are a lot of good options. As far as lures, if you have to pick a certain brand to get a long cast, your problem is somewhere else. I can bomb DT’s just fine and don’t need super specific gear to accomplish.

I can’t speak to the Zodias but the DC is a good reel. As far as the rod, if I were going to spend more on just one rod, it would be for bottom contact. As you move up in price, improved sensitivity is one of the benefits. I would use that improvement on techniques where it is most beneficial. Just my 2 cents. Congrats on the bonus.

I fish largemouth (primarily Texas) so I’m not as familiar with smallmouth behavior. As “deleted account” ? said, bass tend to move vertically v. horizontally during colder months. They also tend to suspend more during non feeding periods. It’s less about the actual depth and more about ability to access multiple depths. You can catch them shallow but as a general rule, I want deeper water access close by. I personally wouldn’t fish something like a big shallow flat where they have to move some distance to access deeper water. As the water continues to warm, they will often move to staging areas outside their spawning sites. In my area, bass get more active a lot earlier than many fishermen realize. As the days get longer, they anticipate the season changes. Lipless and CB’s can be great cold water lures. Something like a Frittside, a shad rap, or even a wiggle wart can be excellent, especially around rock. Rock holds heat well during sunny periods and I will often look for rocky areas near deeper water.

A good reel does help. I don’t have a skipping specific rod…I use them all. I use Steez reels and with very little braking (2-3) but will bump it up when skipping, especially if there is a little chop on the water. Practice in your driveway on the concrete right, left and pitch skipping.

You might also consider wake baits, light swim jigs, and swimming worms. If you want something to wind but only have a foot above the weeds, your options are somewhat limited.

Fast until I get an idea of how and where they are positioning, then I slow down. A lot of the tournament anglers want to fill their limits so they are often looking for the active fish.

IMO, most people catch more fish morning and evening because most fishermen are bank beaters and as a general rule, those are the times when fish are more likely to pull up to feed. Often you can relocate if you pull back. If they have pulled up on a point in 1-5’ of water, they may pull out to 10’ on the same point. If they pull up on a ledge flat, they may pull off the ledge and suspend (especially in the winter). Some of my best days have been when I have found them grouped up later in the day. Finding the juice just off those early morning feeding spots can be gold.

He was fishing without a trailer. He describes it as more of a finesse approach. He reels very slow and wants a small profile. Remember, he is watching the fish and his lure so he is presenting to a known fish. He doesn’t really need the benefit of vibration. Like Team9nine said, for the most part he sticks to 4-5 baits.

Agree…I usually just use a small piece of masking tape and no knot. I apply more tension when spooling braid so it’s pretty tight and I’ve never had an issue with line slip. Edit: To CrankFate’s point, I also leave a tail behind the tape so as the braid spools, it bites on the tail as well.

This fish came off a swim jig…he has it on video. He spends most of his time graphing. Most wouldn’t have the patience to fish like he does.

I’ve started experimenting with some of the soft plastic paints, adding a few dots or stripes. I figure if it’s good enough for Bill Murphy, why not give it a try. The thought is that it adds contrast and also enhances the illusion of movement.

Accent Jacob Wheeler Original & Finesse. Black or white toad 95% of the time as toads skip well. The only time I use a skirt is if there are small baitfish…I will use the finesse buzz and trim the skirt back. A toad gives a pretty big profile.

Biggest bass to date…15.10 at Ivey. Dude really has mastered the forward FA facing sonar.

I am right handed and have no issues working a bait with my left but I do a lot of things (i.e. shoot a bow) lefty. As far as switching hands, I believe serious fishermen would do themselves a favor learning to cast, skip and pitch from both sides. I am just as accurate left or right and it is amazing how often it makes a big difference. Plus, I often let co-anglers fish from the front deck and always have to adjust to their style.

https://shanesbaits.com/main.sc I use these…good quality and the arms are replaceable so you don’t have to buy a new rig. The arms also have some play so it doesn’t create a weak spot where the arm meets the head.

Here is one my mom and dad made for me 50 years ago.

I think most off the shelf willow blades are pretty standard. If you want a shallow cup, your best bet is probably eBay. The Barlow’s in Dallas used to sell them…not sure if they still do. You may find something if you Google slow willow or shallow cup willow.

I use them on a medium baitcast rod that is designed for 110’s and I agree that they bend out fairly easily. The only comment I would add to above is that I would stay close to the same size range. They don’t seem to handle upsizing or heavier hooks very well. I have a love hate relationship with 110’s, catch a lot of fish but my last 2 hooks buried in the hand were from 110’s.

I have not tried with tubing. I now use the rubber bands. They work well and the saddle extends the life of the bait because it prevents the hook from pulling out. This was posted previously by someone else but here is the link.

I definitely agree with the gut hook comment, it certainly can be a negative with a Carolina. As far as spitting out, my experience with LMB is if they feel little resistance, they almost always hold on…hence the gut hook. It can be hard to shake off a Carolina bass. SMB…I have little experience.

I have Steez SV reels on all of my bottom contact rods including my Steez Bottom Contact rod. The highest gear ratio they have is 7:1 (I think). I have multiple Metanium’s as well and I prefer the MGL over the DC (they are both good). You can get a good price on a JDM Metanium.

I’m not sure I understand the logic of bigger = bigger. If it’s about flash, smooth is going to give bigger sized baitfish flash than hammered. An Oklahoma, with a centerline, is going to have separate flashes which in theory gives a smaller, multi fish flash. One of the reasons Clunn thinks most fishermen use willows is because they are more forgiving and easier to run true. If you like willows but want to fish slower, you can use flatter (less cupped) blades which create more resistance. They also start spinning quicker on start up.

My standard length is 3’. I go shorter if I’m around wood (I get hung less) and longer in grass or very clear water. The bait does stay close to the bottom but it will dart around some as you pull it over rock, shells, etc. which is where I feel a CR shines. Any time you are feeling the weight catching and bouncing off of cover/structure, your bait is likely dancing around a bit as well. IMO, the closer the bait is to the weight, the more jerky (less subtle) it will be as the weight bounces around. With that said, I don’t over think it too much. You can also use some of the floating baits like Z-Man if you want to get a little more distance from the bottom.

Lot’s of good advice. Typically I have the best luck focusing on 1 of 2 areas…either the new shoreline (very shallow) for all the reasons stated above or the old shoreline before the flooding (in your example, 6 feet), it really depends on the cover & structure. Also, because flooding can add a ton of cover for fish, I will typically focus on areas where cover is a little more isolated, at least until I can determine how they are relating. Remember, bass will typically stay in the same general area so you can use your previous knowledge to narrow things down a bit. Edit: You didn’t mention how soon after the huge rain you are fishing. If it was real recent and the rains have decreased visibility quite a bit, bass (LMB) will tend to position much tighter to cover.

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