RDB

This is one of those difficult to interpret Texas laws. Unless there has been a change fairly recently that I am not aware of, the law falls under “waste of game” and describes dead or wounded as applicable (not just fish…any game). Dead is dead but what is considered a wounded fish? Also, if it is a slot lake, a slot fish can’t go in the livewell…you better release it immediately. Telling the game warden it was dead or dying is going to do you no good. I asked several game wardens who told me that if it’s alive, just get it back in the water unless you are confident it has no chance (again, how do you define that). If it ends up belly up and you see it, you should retrieve it (unless slot). Historically, I have seen this most often applied to tournament culling. Not disagreeing with you, just pointing out how poorly the law is written. Edit: To the OP’s question, if you are going to fish, this is occasionally going to happen. Do your best to care for the fish properly and accept that sometimes you get an unintended outcome. Snapping turtles have to eat too.

Alpha Angler Rebound https://www.alphaangler.com/collections/rods/products/crankbait-rod

If you are looking around, do some research on the Alpha Angler ChatterBound. They have been a smaller company that made rods for pros but are now doing direct to customer (no retail)…Brandon Palaniuk is a big user. I have the ChatterBound and 2 Rebounds and am a fan. Also, this is a nice offer they make, copied from their site. If you buy a fishing rod from Alpha Angler and it doesn’t meet or exceed your expectations,send it back for a full refund, return shipping included. We tend to brag with confidence about our products, but it’s for good reason… every one is a labor of love. The truth is we’re willing to put our money where our mouth is!!! If you buy one and don’t like it, send it back. We got you covered. ChatterBound https://www.alphaangler.com/products/alpha-angler-chatterbound Blog that shares some of their history https://www.alphaangler.com/blogs/news

Thanks for reminding me of the OP’s question…I was making a comment about a heavy version of a drop shot. Every site needs the posting police.

Doesn’t the Delta have quite a bit of vegetation? Have you ever tried to go heavy with a Bubba Shot? If I’m not mistaken, I think the Delta may have been where it gained it’s popularity. Others can correct me if I’m wrong. Edit: some people call it a power shot…it’s Bubba in Texas. Power shot down hear is a dead giveaway that you come from one of the lesser states ?.

Good to know. I have purchased quite a few G Loomis rods (usually the same popular distributor) but always have to ask for the discount. I can usually get 20% off but I have never got 30% off. I’ll have to keep an eye on their site around holidays. Thanks for the tip.

Do you find this to be an issue with drop shots. When drop shots first started gaining popularity, a swivel seemed a standard part of setups but I don’t see them used much anymore in our parts. I haven’t used them in years and don’t notice twist. I figured it was because I and most others are primarily braid to leader now.

I have fished for 50 years and I couldn’t tell you how many pounds of drag I have ever set. I just set it based on feel by hand pulling drag depending on the line I’m using. I’m sure I never get close to a reels maximum drag and am likely lighter than most. IMO, heavy drag settings are unnecessary and often harmful outside of heavy cover. There is no telling how many fish are lost at the boat with <10 feet of line out and a fish sees the boat and makes a run. I take several kayak trips every year to fish for reds and I use light rods with braid to 10 lb fluoro. It’s great practice and tons of fun.

I use a composite rod that has an S-Glass tip that has some forgiveness when working through cover but still has a solid butt section. Also, bass will often slash at chatterbaits (and swim jigs) and having that softness IME, helps with MY hookups consistency. I use the same type of rod for chatterbaits, swim jigs, and crankbaits. IMO, that’s the primary theory why anglers who use glass/composite rods do so. Doesn’t make it right for everyone…no reason why MH/F couldn’t work just as well.

?This? If you want something similar, this is a good choice and cheaper to boot.

Sounds to me like a case of not knowing how to properly front end a co-angler ?.

This is another case of not overthinking it. Both rods will work fine and the best choice will be your preference (I drop shot with ML & M rods). The ideal hook will be personal preference…the Owner Down Shot referenced by @Darth-Baiter is a good hook for TR…the size of the bait can influence the size of the hook. Line setup, again personal preference. I’m a braid to fluoro guy but others like mono. As a general rule for spinning, I stay around twice the braid test to the leader…I typically use either 15 or 20lb braid and almost always use 8lb fluoro. Not a rule, just a preference as there is no correct or ideal answer.

I have a lot of KVD’s have caught ton’s of fish but today if I’m fishing a squarebill, it’s usually a BX Brat or Squarebull. I probably throw DT’s more than squarebills though.

I’m curious to know more about this. What are the discounts they almost always give you? Is it a set % and if yes, what is the %? My understanding from several large G Loomis distributors is G Loomis does not allow the advertisement of discounts. I can’t confirm but that is what I have been told. I also don’t think that is what you are saying. I think what you are saying is they will automatically give you some sort of set discount off the listed price without requesting one.

One of my problems is I use multiple brands and sizes. For swimbaits that come in clamshells, I most commonly use Booty Shakers or Keitech’s from 3” for trailers/Alabama up to 5” for other stuff. I like your storage…I just can’t seem to settle one one swimbait brand/style and hate the thought of having to separate storage based on the swimbait. Booty Shakers aren’t nearly as prone to bending, so maybe I could just separate the the Keitech’s suing your idea and use standard boxes for everything else. Thanks for the suggestion.

IMO, there is no universal best time of day but for the individual there may be depending on how & where you like to fish. As an example, yesterday I went to a smaller lake that I fish fairly often. The lake is surrounded with shallow reeds but when you get to ~5+ feet of depth, there is very little in the way of cover/structure…it’s basically a bowl. If I were a bank beater, morning and evenings would probably be the better times. However, shallow water fish on this lake tend to scatter or pull offshore as the sun gets high (water 89 degrees yesterday). Because I’m comfortable offshore and know the location of multiple roadbeds and rock/brush piles, I won’t hit the water before around 11:00 in the summer. The lack of offshore cover/structure leads to the tendency for bass to stack up on what there is. It’s a bonus that many of them are larger bass.

I am a fan of the Evergreen SB. IME, the larger versions really shine when there is some chop on the water. If it’s more calm, I usually go with a different topwater.

To add another point, a different look doesn’t necessarily mean a different color or bait or size change though those are examples. Like @A-Jay said, it could be a profile/size change like going from a 2.5 to 1.5 to 1.0 square bill. It could also be a different presentation like stroking v dragging v hopping or a slower/faster fall rate. Jacob Wheeler won the Summit Cup pitching heavy vegetation using a 2oz weight. He specifically mentioned that his key to winning was to create a fast fall to trigger a more involuntary(ish) reaction…he gave them a different look. It’s a valid concept no matter what bait you are choosing. We all do this every time we fish whether intentional or unintentional. IMO, the goal is to increase the intentional occurrences.

Big fan of the Big Shad color.

Agree ? Agree? As far as color, I typically don’t do super subtle changes like go from green pumpkin red flake to green pumpkin purple flake with plastics. If it is a color change, it’s usually more dramatic. I’ve also found that on some bodies of water, beyond specific trip or seasonal adjustments, preferences sometimes change from year to year. On one lake I fish frequently, plum apple was super hot last year but this year, they don’t seem interested. However, now they are crushing chartreuse (I am going through bags of chartreuse w/black flake Senko’s rigged all kinds of ways). It is a heavily pressured lake, so I don’t know if it’s about the specific color or it’s just a look they are not used to…I have never seen another rod with a bright plastic tied on.

I agree…I think they are just going through a rough period but they are still my preferred tackle store.

Great advice and an excellent way to get started. I would assume there are tons of clubs in Tenn. and most are eager for new members. It’s easy-peasy if you have a boat but if you fish co-angler, it may be difficult to find a consistent back of the boat. Most decent clubs have pretty established boat parings…at least in our area. Most clubs will let you try them out a time or two before joining (you will still pay entry fees). I would test the waters before joining as there are some that are run poorly. Edit: Congrats on your retirement…I’m jealous.

Assuming you get them before winter ?. For me, they have been better recently.

Thanks for the feedback. I finally checked it out and it is the mesh seating rubbing against the plastic support arms. The mesh is supposed to be permanently attached to the support but mine has broken free in multiple spots, so when you move, the stretch makes it creak (I have had the kayak for a number of years). I am going to use some Teflon spray to see if it helps. Back to the post…sorry for the side track ?.

I have the same kayak and agree it is more multi-task. I always use the seat in the up position and don’t have a problem leaning forward and standing without support. I can see where the down position might be a problem since back is lower than the front. I don’t want to hijack your thread but since this is a Hobie seat post, I have a quick question. I have had my kayak for a number of years and only occasionally fish out of it. However, what I have noticed is that the seat has become super creaky (it’s loud), both while peddling and even with small repositions. Have others experienced this and if so, have you found a solution? Considering how noisy it is above the water, I can only imagine what it sounds like below.