RDB

I’m not positive of your question. My standard crankbait rod is a different rod than my deep crankbait rod. For shallow and medium cranks, I don’t want a lot of length for better accuracy, nor do I need a lot of backbone. For deep, I want length and backbone with plenty of tip. FWIW, here are my primary two for cranks. I use this rod as my deep cranking rod https://www.alphaangler.com/collections/bait-casting-rods/products/mag-rebound-76-med-heavy-deep-cranking-bass-rod I use this rod for cranking everything other than deep https://www.alphaangler.com/collections/bait-casting-rods/products/crankbait-rod

I use braid backing…20lb on spinning and whatever I have (usually 50lb) on baitcasters. I don’t care about the brand of the braid for backing. Also, you don’t need to put a lot of fluoro over the backing. I’ve never measured but I would guess I add around 60-70 yards. The difference in cost between braid and mono is small when you consider how long backing will last. You can use either…I just prefer braid.

I have never used the GLX 842s (I have an NRX 852) but I do know people love it. I have purchased numerous G Loomis rods (new and used) from this company and they have a used one they say is in excellent condition. They are a G Loomis dealer and in my experience, if they say excellent condition, you won’t be able to tell it’s ever been used. They have free shipping and if you sign up for their newsletter, you can get an additional 10% off. https://www.americanlegacyfishing.com/catalog/product/view/id/85594/s/g-loomis-glx-842s-sjr-7-m-fast-used-spinning-rod-excellent/category/3532/ They will also auction their used rods on their eBay site if they need to make room for new rods. If you go to their eBay site and look at completed auctions for the GLX 842s, it looks like the sell price for a pre owned excellent GLXs has ranged from $280 - $305 plus an $18.00 shipping charge (they charge shipping on used). I don’t think they have the rods linked for auction now but assume they will if it doesn’t move. If it were me, I would call them and ask if the rods (they have 2) will go to auction if not sold. Knowing the highest recent auction sale was $305 + $18 shipping ($323 total), I would offer $350 including shipping and see if they will take it. If I were a gambling man, I would bet they will. If not, it’s still a fair price.

I use the Megabass Oneten Stick for walking baits. It was designed for jerkbaits but works great for walking. I especially like that it is 6’5” with a shorter handle. Purchasing JDM is much cheaper than USDM.

For context, how big are these bodies of water? If you are fishing from the bank, how have you determined the depth and the structure/cover that exists throughout the lake…especially lakes 1 & 3? Also, it doesn’t need to be dramatic cover/structure to hold bass. Edit: I’m sure you know this but just to clarify, all bodies of water have structure though definitions of what is considered part of the structure may vary. I define structure as simply the bottom contours (the canvas the lake is created on) and cover as what’s on top of those contours.

I don’t think that’s an opinion worthy of flaming…I think it’s reasonable and I don’t disagree on limp line. When I’m fishing, limp line is controlled slack (slight bow) but I rarely lose contact with the lure. Is there a difference between bite transmission on controlled slack? I’m sure it’s probably been studied somewhere. All I know is for me, I don’t see a noticeable difference.

For me, if the choices were a new rod for $50 dollars or a higher quality used rod for $50, I would go used every time. Fishermen are always upgrading their gear and you can get great deals if you look around. You probably see dismissing returns the higher you go in price but the difference is significant from low to mid tier IMO.

Out of curiosity, is there a reason why you are considering switching to straight fluoro? I find braid to leader much easier to manage and performs better. IMO, the only advantage to straight fluoro for general spinning use is one less knot but I have never had failure issues with my FG’s. I also use 15-20 foot leaders which is longer than most. As @roadwarrior suggested, you may find your overall experience more enjoyable with a smaller reel if you are using spinning primarily for finesse presentations. As far as line conditioners, I am absolutely in the minority on this site but I personally don’t like to use them. For me, there are other ways to manage coiling. Conditioners work great for their intended purpose but whenever possible, I try to minimize things that might negatively influence the bass. Can line conditioner impact fluoro visibility or leave a slight odor. Probably not but I have no idea…it’s likely me just being anal. I am also the guy that washes his hands with scent free soap after taking a dip. I have the same hesitancy with Reel Magic, etc. My avoidance is not a statement regarding the appropriateness or others preference to use conditioners, it’s just my personal choice. My motto is when in doubt, go without. I would much prefer catching one big fish than 20 smalls. I may give big fish more credit than they deserve (I don’t think so) but I will do everything in my power to remove any potential negatives, real or imagined.

They will absolutely hit anything you throw in Texas waters…the stranger the better. If you don’t have any luck after a trip or two, it means there are no fish in that lake and you are better off never going back. I have done a lot of the work already and would be happy to provide a list of lakes that you should never visit.

He said cedar but I would be surprised if it’s salt cedar. If I’m not mistaken, that is an invasive plant, would be surprised if people are using it for brush piles, and if it is found around banks, is usually eradicated (at least around here). If I’m fishing buck brush, I’m using 50-65 test, a heavy rod, and I’m winching them out. You are not likely to get a bass out of heavy buck brush with TLC.

Agree…also we have had several recent posts with people wondering why anglers use hard hook sets. I would suggest that this is a classic situation where a strong hook set is beneficial. The quicker you can get the bass turned and in control, the greater your odds of success IMO.

Same…I rig with the shank on the bottom and hook point on top where the eyes are.

Depending on the lake, when you factor in likely dead water, 300 acres becomes pretty small. If it has docks, you could hit those areas that most fishermen can’t access effectively (skipping). You could also choose a spot that is a little larger (point, roadbed, etc.) and camp out…at least you can manage the pressure. I fish a lake fairly often that gets tons of pressure with mostly community holes and usually can catch a good bag camped on a 50 yard section of a roadbed. I would also slow way down.

No absolutes…just general rules of thumb. As the water gets dirtier, size, color, and vibration can help overcome visibility limitations. In your water which has 10+ feet of visibility, bass are not going to have any issues picking up the lure from long distances and often intrusive lures can be a negative. That’s why people often downsize and finesse techniques become more prevalent. Both can work depending on the situation but I would start with a swim jig. If I use a chatterbait in clear water, it’s usually the Z-Man StealthBlade…much more subtle.

In 50 years of fishing, I have never tested the drag poundage set on any reel. I would have to look up the proper way to test if I ever chose to do so. I set mine by hand/feel and am probably on the lighter side. I may make a slight adjustment but it’s usually situation specific. I stuck a big one last week and realized that I hadn’t re-tied in a while, so I backed off the drag a little.

I prefer the Steez over the Metanium. I also prefer the new Zillion over the Metanium and you can get a JDM Zillion for $250.

IMO, one of the best ways to improve accuracy is to learn better thumb control, so you can reduce your brakes/tension. So often people are afraid of backlashing, so they have their settings fairly tight which leads to a harder cast and more movement. I keep my settings super light and I can send a lure 20 yards with minimal movement and effort. IME, it's hard to be really accurate if you have your reel tightened down.

Warm water & Dawn dishwashing soap.

Perfect as a lure retriever.

If it were me, I would call Okuma and ask for more details on their warranty program (it looks like they have several options available). https://okumafishingusa.com/pages/limited-rod-warranties In my experience, if you call direct and are respectful, many companies are very accommodating with replacements. You may be able to get the newer model for a fraction of the cost. Also, I would be shocked if the newer version is that different than the older version. Since you indicated that you love the rod, that’s where I would throw my first dart. Edit: Do you remember where you purchased? If TW, they should have a record and they have one of the most liberal rod return policies I have ever seen.

1). Use the lightest weight you need. 2). When you first feel the snag, don’t put a lot of pressure on it or you will wedge it more. 3). Use lighter line snaps with your off hand to pop it free. You may have to snap it quite a few times but it will usually break free.

In that case heads Rage Craw, tails Speed Craw.

They both will work fine. Since you didn’t say how you are using it, I would go with the speed craw simply because I think it’s has a wider application. It makes a solid chatterbait or swim jig trailer as well.

It may be less about your skills and more about the fish you are targeting. Suspended fish can be very difficult to catch as they will often be inactive. Unless I see bait balls or signs of schooling, I won’t spend much time on suspended fish. With your bottom contact baits, you were much more likely around more active fish. Just my opinion.

I hear you and I’m not arguing, I’m just sharing my rational. In 50+ years of fishing, I’ve never taken a hook from another angler and I’ve fished shoulder to shoulder thousands of times. I’m much more concerned when there is a little more room like fishing out of a Jon Boat…anytime I have been hit, it’s almost always when we are 6-7 feet apart. I’m not going to share the deck with a complete novice but if it’s someone who has a clue, I’m completely comfortable with it.