Tatulatard

You can just buy a tatula elite for under $180 on that chinease amazon site. Should run you close to what making a tatula ct elite long cast will run you an you get a more compact and better palming reel unless tatula cts are your thing.

I would go with the tatula 300. The usdm zillion hd is great but doesn't hold a ton of line if using big diameter mono or flouro. The jdm zillion hd holds even less line and is not a "bigger swimbait reel". Line capacity isn't a big issue to me. The big glide baits don't cast far anyways. It's more like the bigger reels like the tatula 300 have better braking and just cast the big baits better. Maybe its the big diameter spools.

My only concern would be can it actually cast 2 oz well? If not familiar with that rod but many rods have an optimistic upper lure weight rating. This is where a tackeltour review would be helpful. On the bass x line the 710 did pretty good as a swimbait rod. Does that mean the victory will be as well? Maybe. Maybe not. http://www.tackletour.com/reviewstcroixbac710hf.html

? I wonder if it is a simple as: Low pound test mono = low amounts of force to stretch and a low stretch length before breaking High pound test mono = large amounts of force to stretch and a longer stretch length before breaking. If searching out that elastic stretch of the line and taking it into plastic deformation is what breaks the line the wouldn't higher pound test = higher stretch?

I'm in the same camp. I fish big game mono in 8 and 20 lbs and regularly tug a length of line and admire the elastic stretch. I can get both to stretch a good bit by hand. It takes a little more force to get the 20 stretching but not double. Tugging hard I can max out the 8# pretty easy and feel like I am past the elastic stretch and getting to the point where I am approaching plastic deformation. When I do this with 20 lb bg I run out of reach to stretch by hand before I reach a point where I feel like I have stretched it to a point where it is maxing out elasticity.

Doesn't apply to these two reels in the used market. There are simply more metanium mg7s available than core 100. The exchange rate could be flipped the other way around and the metanium mg7 would still be cheaper. Ebay isn't the best example but it illustrates the point. If you want a core and don't like the lack of reels on the used market or the prices they want for them then you can fortunately get the same reel in a different name with different paint for cheaper. This is what makes them sleepers in comparison to the core.

I see. The big core. That one is a few years older and a metanium. Same principal probably applies. If you find your self hunting down a core of any size, check for the jdm reel under a different name and you may be pleasantly surprised by the prices you find. This used to be the case. I'm sure the word has gotten around by now. http://www.tackletour.com/reviewshimanocore.html

Same reels. Basically a usdm and jdm version.

There's your problem. The aldebaran from the same era as the core is a core. Actually it's the other way around I suppose and a core is the old aldebaran.

Sleeper? For the little shimanos it's the scorpion 1000xt. Same reel as the curado 50e but gets slept on because it wasn't sold in the US. This keeps the bidding wars down and they used to (haven't bought on in a long time) go for way less than their green counterpart used. Similar relationship with the core/aldebaran from this period. All the big money americans bid up the cores because they didn't know what an aldebaran was.

Standard pfd with ignition kill switch clipped on when using the big motor. Pull cord inflatable when on the casting deck fishing. If you get thrown out while on plane you might be unconscious and unable to activate a pull cord. Better to have the old school fail proof pfd. Use the pull cord when fishing to free up movement when casting and working baits. That's my approach.

It's meant to run shallow. If you want a deeper running paddle tail then look at the savage gear and huddleston baits. Each bait has a place and purpose. I'm in the market for a magdraft after struggling to keep my sg 3d trout shallow. Thing sinks like a rock.

Handle length becomes an issue on a punch/swimbait rod. The ideal handle length for punching is shorter than what is ideal for swimbaits. Unless you want to drop $500 for a megabass jdm 4oz rated punching rod with an adjustable length handle then your only option is to make a compromise and find a longer handle punching rod rated up the swimbaits you want to throw or to find a swimbait rod with a shorter handle. I think 12"-13" would work. You also also strip the rear portion of a split grip rod and cut it down then mudhole a new rear grip and address any balancing issues. I've heard of this being done to a veritas winch magnum crankbait rod to make it a punching rod. The guy really liked the moderate loading it had to keep fish pinned under a mat but the handle was too long.

Don't boat flip, hoist fish onto the shore or high stick the rod on a hookset or snag and your "tips breaking off" problem goes away for all rods with very few exceptions. Some rods are more resistant to this treatment and others are not. The adrenas are not by the sounds of it. So, don't do that stuff if you get one and if you do that stuff then don't get one.

Sounds like the spool shaft fits into the pinion gear to connect the two together is a way that is more connected than just relying on a spool pin. Should eliminate any spool chatter when reeling quickly with no load like slack line. Daiwas are notorious for this. I'm sure it's a better connection too for some applications but a bass reel? Just seems like trickling down of this tech from salt reels to their bass reels because they can. I have the spool from a old quantum early low profile I got in the 90s that has a tapered square portion on the spool the pinion gear grabs onto rather than a spool pin. Same concept probably.

Dobyns or Kastking? Which would you rather have? ?

The handle is only short if you buy the jdm reel. Even then a handle is easily changed. I wouldn't let knobs or a handle stop me from buying a reel.

Doesn't this reel have the same gears and drag as the jdm zillion 1000? I know its a small reel but I think it can handle pitching duties fine.

That is very tight but as long as it works for you. If there continues to be issues with attaching the side plate then it is likely that the spools tension will need to be backed off each time as it is being ran at a higher setting then the reel was designed for use.

Leave the tension that loose. Spool tension so great that the side plate won't latch is telling you something. That something is "please stop". Its not a daiwa zero adjust breakthrough. Every baitcast reel should have no or very little spool tension.

Looks like a kastking reel. Probably from the same place.

Go to walmart and get one of the lews rods. The hank parkers are pretty good.

This is proof that left hand reeling is unnatural. When forced with the option of reeling backwards with the right hand or forwards with the left they novices choose right hand reeling and only shaming out of it them can convince them otherwise.

Let us know how that works out. I hear those spools are wild and like easier flowing line.

The jackal lake police. Also deep cranking on 20lb flouro? Seems wrong.