Tatulatard

The higher capacity rays spool you linked earlier does not however. That one has a fixed rotor with 4 positions. The new ark reels also make use of this spool from what I am seeing. I want to try one.

Wow

No. I use what I like. What I like probably isn't "the best".

Why not the 7'2" medium zodias?

Anyone use the hollow braid and just stuff the leader into it like a finger trap? TT uses this on a lot of their swimbait setups I see.

No you don't understand. He uses lews reels so that means they are the best.

A light powered bfs rod from majorcraft would be ideal for those baits and they usually top out at 1/4 oz baits but I have also heard great things about the phenix light powered rods so I would look into those too.

Anyone who trolls will yell you that. Its all about diameter when talking about depth.

What bait types and weight ranges do you want to throw? Do you have a prefered length.

A sinking line has no effect on a crankbait. It's not lead core. It being wound onto the reel as you are cranking and is pulling up on the bait as it pulls down with the bill. It's not a weightless plastic sinking on slack line as we would normally associate with the line keeping the bait down.

I make long casts with that same bait on 12 lb flouro. Things to consider: EWG exposed hook points when rigging Smaller diameter wire "super line" EWG hooks Switching to braid and leader Sweep and lean into the fish type hookset instead of a short hard yank

I thought that was ideal. Aren't most cranks rated depth stated that they are to be used with an 8 to 10 lb mono?

Every reel I own get the spools tension set to minimize side to side play. All the daiwas I run middle range on the mag dial unless I am skipping. The only variable between a 1/8 oz and 3/8 oz bait is that I don't throw that weight range on a single rod and have different reels for each. I certainly can throw that weight range without having to touch the spool tension or mag brake on a single reel. If I change anything it would be the spool. I don't want a heavy spool with a lot of heavy line on it throwing 1/8 oz. It'll do it but it's not ideal.

Tatula elite That's everything reel I own.

That sounds like a bearing to me.

Most likely a bad pining support bearing. Dry/crunchy bearings here give the illusion of gear feel. Is it only under load is feels geary or can you smack the handle and feel it as the handle spins?

Both are the same size I bet any perceived size difference probably due to one being black with a bright silver star and the other being bright silver with a black star. The dark body contrasting with the bright star appearing smaller than the bright body and dark star of the other. Maybe a combination of reel seat heights too with whichever rod they are mounted onto making for a felt hight difference paired to a perceived optical difference. If you don't believe me, there is a reason kitchen islands will have dark lower cabinets while the ones on the wall will be lighter colored in small kitchen with an island. It draws you eye to the wall cabinets and makes the island not pop out as much when it is darker.

A 7' rod is just about ideal I find from a kayak unless you are real up close to targets making accurate cast. It it is long casts over slop then a 7' should be fine if you work the rod with walks to the side. Try a cheap Walmart lews rod like the hank parker or xfinity 7' mh. They all run a little more stiff than other mh and are good cheap frog rods. Pretty well balanced too making walking a breeze.

Both of mine are equally smooth cranking in a bait. Just playing with the reels spinning the handle and the alphas tw isn't as free spinning as the zillion but that's probably due to the different spools. Sv spools like what's in the alphas will brake even when spinning the handle and actually reduce handle free spin.

Keep this up and you'll end up chasing after old megabass reels in your pursuit of the darkside.

I think those are Extra fast right hand Hyper long cast Fast right hand Extra fast left hand Stress free versatile Slow left hand Normal speed left hand Stress free versatile Normal speed

Those 7.2:1 bass alphas gears are just butter. Mandatory upgrade to all alphas and pixy reels.

Actually bumping the dial is a somewhat common complaint but it only seems to be with left hand reel users casting while holding onto the reel instead if the rod. For right hand reelers this is a non issue.

This a good read on some of the 1st BFS rods to make their way into the US bass fishing scene and memeber reactions to them. I remember reading this lurking the forum and then buying a trout rod like a dummy before I figured out my mistake.

Plenty of BFS rods will have have BFS written right on them. That's how "BFS" came into use in US bass fishing circles. If I remember correctly one of the 1st to really catch on were the majorcraft BFS rods which have BFS on the rod. People were ecstatic about them and remembered reading the 1st hand accounts of the rods. They were unlike any "light" or "ultra light" powered rods they had encountered before and were much more powerful and with soft tips but could still handle a bass in cover. Perhaps that is the progressive taper. One thing was clear: these were fundamentally different from normal light or ultra light powered rods and while they had no idea what BFS meant it was important enough to put on the outside of the rod. After this, then you spoke of a BFS rod it was these rods and that taper is what was associated with the term. Contrast this with something like a trout rod which is a completely different rod from a BFS rod in build and it is important to make the destinction. You read all these reviews about how a BFS rod has all this power and is built like a medium or medium light casting rod with a soft taper to cast down to 1/16 oz jigs and then go buy a trout rod because someone told you it was a "BFS" rod only to find that it folds in half at the real seat as soon as you hook a 2lb bass. You would be disappointed. People have done this and been disappointed. I did this and was disappointed. I had to do a lot of lurking and reading of old threads across two forums to learn the truth of what had happened. Its not complicated. There exist special finesse casting rods within Japanese bass rods lines that have this taper that allows them to cast light weight baits but still be a powerful rod able to control a big bass in cover. These bass rods are built completely different from a panfish or trout rod. Seabass rods can be very similar but are usually very long. So when someone, on a bass fishing forum, wants a BFS rod then that means they want to catch bass with it. They want to throw bass baits. They want the rod that was designed for bass baits. They dont want a 5' trout rod. They don't want a 8'2" sea bass rod. This is why it is not helpful to call everything a BFS rod. For example, If someone wants a crankbait rod for squarebills then appropriate recommendations would NOT include flipping sticks, tuna rods or history lessons about how in the 1930s everyone called reels winders and aksually all rods are winder rods or some other tangent. Maybe its like "flipping" which has lost all meaning. I guess a flipping rod is a medium spinning rod because making a short accurate cast is "flipping the bait out there". BFS was even more loosely defined than flipping so it has devolved to "casting light weights but with a baitcaster". That soon will devolve into "casting light weights". Things change over time but what really struck me in this thread is the understanding of what a BFS rod is has devolved to the point where an actual BFS rod, from Japan, with BFS in the name of the rod is said not to be a BFS rod because it doesn't cast as light a weight as a trout rod.