JackstrawIII

Makes sense, but most of the guys I watch on YouTube advocate the opposite approach. They claim that the young of the year are now big enough to eat. So, though they’re still very small, the bass focus on them. Apparently sizing down to match the smaller forage can be the ticket in the fall. But… I obviously am no pro at this.

You mention not understanding what all this means. Let me break this down for you, briefly: Size - that's the length Power - that's how much weight it takes to make the rod bend. A light rod will bend very easily. This is great for smaller fish, but can be used for bass too in a pinch. I've caught 3 pounders on a light rod using live bait. You can do it, no problem. The limitation is less about the size of the fish you can catch and more about the type of bait you can use. A light rod lacks the power to set a big/heavy hook, like those found on almost all artificial baits. Bottom line, stick to smaller, thin wire hooks with this rod and you'll be ok. Max drag - that's how much weight the reel can handle before the drag engages. Basically, before you turn the handle and nothing happens. Think about it this way, when the drag engages you stop pulling the fish in and the fish is able to start pulling line back out. Don't worry about this. Recovery - that's how much line goes back onto the spool for every spin of the reel handle. Basically, you're moving the bait that much every time you turn the handle around 1 revolution. Reel size - 30 is medium. My fav size. Line weight - this is the weight of standard (mono, fluoro, or hybrid) line that they recommend you use. I'd go with 6 pound YoZuri hybrid line, personally, since you're probably not interested in learning to tie leader knots at this stage in the game. Hybrid is very strong, relatively invisible in the water, and neutral buoyancy. Lure weight - the size lure they recommend. I'd stick to open-hook type lures and techniques, as explained previously. Ball bearings - a technical detail of the reel. Ignore. Line capacity - how much 6 pound line will fit on the spool. 145 is more than enough. That should get you started. As someone said previously, this is a great forum and members are always happy to help.

I'd love to hear from some Northeast guys to see if your experience echos our Florida brother here. Glenn mentioned that in a video recently, the idea of using a toad as a jig trailer. I've experimented with letting toads slowly sink on a weighted hook... and it does catch fish for sure.

I have both. They’re solid. Caught more fish on the 703 than any other rod this year.

The SLX XT is a great inexpensive option for a crankbait reel. Or something like a Lews LFS is solid if you want to go even cheaper.

I don’t fish tournaments… and I have 25 setups all ready to go at this moment. If fishing is your hobby and you want more rods, get them. I like having the exact rod I want for each technique, so I’ve slowly gathered them over the years. I like it trying new rods, so… there ya go. Other peoples opinions are best ignored… but that’s just my opinion.

The St Croix Triumph line is hampered by very limited choices… but if you’re looking for something fairly generic (like a 6’6 or 7’ ML-MH) then you can’t beat them for the price. They’re very good rods for $100. For what you’re talking about, a 7’ MH from the Triumph line would be great.

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So they say… I’ve never really gotten into traditional worm fishing. I like Senkos and shaky heads, but never anything bigger. The paddletail looks so realistic, you’d think they’d never grow tired of biting it, especially in the fall when they key in to feed on bait fish, but my experience shows otherwise. My one decent theory has to do with speed of retrieve. I normally fish paddletails very slow, and most of the year it works great. Slow swim at whatever depth I think the fish are at and eventually I’ll get bit. But maybe the fall fish want something faster? Perhaps if I put them on a heavier hook/jig and fished them faster?

I love fishing a paddletail on an underspin of some sort. Through most of the year, that’s a go-to bait for me and catches fish well, whether I’m fishing a lake, pond, or river. However, in the last month or so, I can’t buy a bite on the paddletail anywhere… and I’m wondering if anyone can tell me why. I know the bite in Aug/Sept is generally slow, but I’m grabbing a few fish here and there on other types of lures… just not on a paddletail no matter how hard I try. This just strikes me as so strange. Can’t figure it.

If you’re just starting out, try the 7’ Triumph by St Croix. Solid rod for a decent price.

I don’t.

I bought the same rod in BassX form and... never use it. Couldn't find a good use. I've moved away from all my XF rods. With that said, the M/XF rod would be good for light bottom baits. Wouldn't use it for any moving baits personally, but stuff like small jigs and stuff would work well.

I've yet to find a glass rod that I enjoy. The added weight really bugs me. I much prefer moderate action graphite.

"I have no interest in being like your dad." Led to the biggest fight we've ever had... and on our honeymoon, no less. Thankfully, it's been all uphill from there

No experience with the Revo, but I’m very happy with my Tatula SV reels. Very happy.

Agreed. I’m a premium member and use Omnia when I need just a few things quick. I also try to buy expensive stuff there if they have it, to earn the points. However, TW’s website is SO much better, so I do my major shopping there. Easier to search, better filters for search results, better layout, more helpful customer reviews, etc. In summary, I will probably buy a premium membership again next year ???? Ps. That Baitwrx sale happening right now is awesome.

I use fluorocarbon for leaders if I want my bait to sink more quickly. Does it make a big difference… probably not. My most common leader material is copoly.

FG knot works great with 15lb braid and 10lb leader. I have that exact setup on several rods. FG knot works great down to about 6lb leader. I know from experience. One tip, pull tighter when tying the first overhand knot after you do all your loops. That sets the knot.

I did this the other day when I couldn't find my regular sharpener and it worked really well.

This is very well said. When I fish with my friends, I almost always catch more than them, despite trying to coach them and such. I also very rarely get skunked… but i feel like I’m FAR from being a well rounded and experienced fisherman. My biggest struggles are: - When the fish aren’t biting the way I expect them to, I often struggle to figure out what to change about my approach. - Fishing offshore. It feels like trying to find a needle in a haystack. I often wish that I had a bass mentor, of sorts. I’m the best bass fisherman I know… which isn’t saying much. Wish I knew some more bass guys I could learn from.

This is basically what I try to do. I think it’s less about finding the right baits and more about finding the fish… and making the right presentation to them. If they’re under docks, it doesn’t really matter if you throw a Ned, a Senko, or a craw (in my experience). If they’re on weed edges, a Paddletail or a Texas rigged creature perform about the same (in my experience). I think that finding the first fish is the hardest. Once you get bit, just repeat what you did in similar places for similar results.

5” Senko gets a 3/0 hook. A regular EWG is good, but a Twistlok helps the Senko last much longer.

Keitech soft plastics. Honorable mention to ZMan. Owner hooks. I don’t really fish hard baits much.

One thought that might be helpful: if the fish are hitting but I can’t hook up on a floating frog, usually a buzz toad of some sort will work.