WaskaCrank12

Update - 06/18/24 @Way2slow @WRB @Woody B I have allowed the epoxy (72 hours) and the putty (48 hours) to cure - the insert and insert area appear stable. I re-watched several videos on replacing the water pump/auger/gasket/metal plate to refresh my mind and to make sure I was doing it appropriately. I borrowed a torque wrench from a friend to make sure I would not be over tightening the bolts. I put anti-seize on the bolts - which hopefully will avoid any bolt breakage in the future. Everything has gone well to this point in the water pump replacement process -- now I just need to wait to have a friend come and help me put the lower unit back on to the motor (and I have a few other things to do - replace the lower unit fluid/ect...)-- and then hopefully this weekend I can fire up the motor and see if this repair holds and if it is the proper fix. If it works -- awesome -- if it does not work then I will seek out a used lower unit. Thank you again for all of your help/support with this. I have learned many lessons in this process (most importantly is that if a bolt breaks off in aluminum it is best to bring it to a machinist to get it done right vs. trying to do it myself -- ie, stay in my lane and know my limitations). I have learned new skills, I have built more confidence/skill in using tools. I have also learned about epoxy/putty/sealants/aluminum/and a number boat engine issues/solutions. I will update you once I get the engine running (or not running).

Update 06/15/24 @Way2slow @WRB @Woody B Time-Sert kit arrived today - I had watched a number of videos (Time-Sert company videos and mechanics videos) - I practiced on some wood (no spare aluminum) - and dove in to it - following the instructions and tips from the videos. It was tricky to make sure the drill was in the proper place and vertical/steady - the same with the counter bore and threader - yet I believe it went ok. I oiled the insert tool and insert and followed the directions. The only real hiccup is the insert is about a 1/8 turn too deep for the insert hole - so it is not 100% flush at the top of the insert area (it is probably 98% flush). My hope is that I can overcome that by adding a bit more sealant in that area when I put the gasket and metal plate and cover on (the cover is wider/larger than the insert area so it should cover that area and not be a major issue). The insert is in tight and I have no fear that is will move or come out. A small piece of aluminum - and I mean an extremely small piece - no bigger than this letter "o" came away from the side of the insert area aluminum - so I will use some JB Weld "putty" on that (it is file-able so I will make sure it is sanded smooth (although due to the location I do not think it matters at all). I took my time and followed things to the best of my ability (this is the first time I have ever done anything like this - basically way over my head from a knowledge/skill level). A learning experience for sure. I thank each of you for all of your expertise and willingness to help me. The job is not complete - and I am not sure if it will hold or work once under strain - so I will update you when I piece it back together (gasket/metal plate/cover). Thank you !

Update 06/10/24 Hello @Way2slow @WRB @Woody B Thank you for the info and clarity on the "release agent" - I now understand what it is. I have ordered a Time-Sert Kit (insert and tools for the 1/4-20 bolt) - a bit pricey with shipping - yet given the situation I am in it is clearly less expensive than a lower unit/new motor. I watched quite a few videos (specifically Project Farm - he did extensive testing of Time-Sert/EZ Loc/Helicoil/HHIP and several liquid threads) and the Time-Sert tested out as the top performer. Looking at the damage done to my insert area and the info. provided by @Way2slow led me to pulling the trigger on the Time-Sert. If the damage to the insert area had not been as extensive I would have gone with (the much less expensive) Helicoil or EZ-Loc. I am still researching the Devcon vs. JB Weld-type adhesive (I am going to drive to a rural hardware store this week and see if they have some of the old Johnson's Paste Wax - they have a reputation for having long out of stock/no longer manufactured items). Thank you again for the information and sharing your expertise. Once the Time-Sert arrives and I have an adhesive I will provide an update.

Hello @Woody B @Way2slow @WRB The bolt is 1/4-20 size - I have 4 new bolts that came with the Evinrude water pump kit I purchased. During the course of grinding out the insert area (to get the broken bolt out) the insert area did become larger and wore down/damaged the majority of the original threads - so I do believe a "threaded insert" (that @Way2slow mentioned) will need to be used - later today I will look online to order one. Yes, the Devcon looks to be about $100 - could I use a JB Weld ? Or are there other options ? You had written that I should not use a "release agent" on the outside of the insert (yet I should put it on the inside of the insert) -- I am not sure what a "release agent" is -- could you please clarify that for me ? (I am guessing it might be anti-seize ?) Again, thank you to each of you for making the time to share your expertise with me !

Update - 6/7 @Way2slow @WRB @Woody B @DinkDonkey30 @MN Fisher Ok....a slow tedious process, and I kept looking at Way2Slow's advice of "take your time and be patient".....because it was a literal grind....I ended up purchasing multiple sized Irwin "extractors" (Way2Slow I took your advice and avoided HF) and ended up using all three of them at various times.....between yesterday and today it was probably 4 or more hours of work/grinding the stuck bolt down (I had tried to pry it out yet it became clear to me that the metal from the bolt was basically fused into the aluminum threads in the insert).....finally a piece of the bolt came lose and fell to the bottom of the insert, I used tweezers to get it out of there.....then, and my neighbors already think I am a bit zany, I ran out of the garage beating my chest and yelling YEAH !!!!!! The insert area is not perfect, a bit damaged from the initial try at the fix and from this work.....but no damage to the bottom (I ended up using tape to mark it, yet I appreciate @MN Fisher suggestion of the stop collars)....now when I put the metal plate on and the cover on it lines up and I can put the bolt in.......BUT....I do need to now figure out if a "Time-Sert" or Helicoil will work best (I think the aluminum around the insert area is now worn down too thin to try and just tap new threads into the aluminum/insert area).....so there is clearly quite a bit more to be done....but always good to celebrate a small victory in the process..... Any additional suggestions/information is appreciated ! Thank you to all who have contributed to this, specifically @Way2slow , I literally could not have gotten this far without you !! Thank you !!

Hello @Way2slow @WRB Thank you for making the time and sharing your expertise with me -- no doubt the first attempt at fixing this did more harm than good -- I fully appreciate your detailed layout of how to approach this -- I have printed out the info you have shared and will use it as a guide as I work on it -- this is my first time working on something like this and having people like you share their expertise with me is invaluable -- as they say "success leaves clues" and you have had success in navigating issues like this and I appreciate you sharing your "success clues" with me -- There is about 20 % of the bolt left in the insert area, the bolt is not whole, it is only a small sliver of it on one side of the insert area, so job number 1 is to get that out -- then I will go with what you recommended (an insert vs. a heilcoil) as that appears to make the most sense given that I would rather use the original size bolt if at all possible Thank you again -- I will provide progress updates as I move thru the process

Update as of 06/05 @WRB @Way2slow @Woody B @DinkDonkey30 Today I stopped by 3 machine shops and a marina/dealer -- two of the machine shops are "engine machine shops" so I was hopeful -- all three declined to take it on as a project, all said "aluminum is fragile and extremely difficult to work with" -- one said because I had already tried they did not want the liability of taking it on -- one said to maybe try and shave the metal plate back a bit so the screw would fit -- the dealer (who I went to last) recommended two of the three places I had already been to -- so, back to square one -- I have spent the last few hours watching Danger Marine and other motor "broken bolt in aluminum" videos -- so tomorrow I am going to try the following: --pull out the heilcoil -- spray the insert area with PB Blaster and let it sit for a while -- go to Harbor Freight and get a "burr extractor" and new size heilcoil to fit the original bolt size -- and then try and back out the piece/s of the old bolt that are still in the insert area with the extractor -- if that is successful I will then look to put in the new heilcoil and go from there -- if it is not successful then I will try and file the metal plate back a bit -- any thoughts recommendation are welcome !! Right now it's an unusable lower unit --- so I feel it's worth the risk for me to try these things (even though this is well out of my comfort zone) --- no risk, no reward --- the worst that can happen is I am back to square one --- if that happens then I will search for a used lower unit

@WRB @Way2slow @Woody B @DinkDonkey30 Thank you to each of you for your thoughts and suggestions/ideas -- you are helping build my confidence that this can be repaired ! Based in the information provided, tomorrow I am going to take the lower unit to an "engine machining shop" that is located north of me and see if they are willing to take it on as a project -- I feel that the re-drilling/tapping of the hole/having the hole drilled straight to accommodate a new insert is a bit beyond my skill level/tools I own level/my confidence level -- I believe on the first attempted fix some of the broken off bolt is still wedged in to the insert area and that might be a bit tricky to remove (I am sure a skilled machinist/mechanic with the correct tools will have the expertise needed to complete the job correctly). Thank you ! I will let you know the outcome

@WRB Thank you for that info........I am going to ask around the neighborhood and see if anyone is open to helping/guiding me with helicoil removal (and then drilling the hole out a bit more to make it a bit wider to then put in a new/larger helicoil in that will allow the bolt to fit correctly and thus the metal plate to fit correctly--- this will be outside of my skill level/knowledge base --- yet you never learn if you don't try !) --- and at this point either it will work or I will need to get a used lower unit. Thank you. @TnRiver46 thank you for the info --- your reply gives me confidence in purchasing a used lower unit if that is the route I go -- Thank you !

Hello @WRB and @Way2slow Thank you for the replies -- the short story (which is going to turn in to a long story) of the damage to the lower unit is --- the engine was surging a bit last fall so this spring when I de-winterized it I chose to take off and clean the carbs (new kits) and thought it would be wise to also change the impeller/water pump while things were a part (also new plugs/fuel filter/fuel line).......everything was going well (I only have medium at best mechanical skill, so this was pushing my ability limits)....three of the 4 bolts for the water pump housing came off with no problem (I took them off by hand with a socket wrench) - the 4th one broke off, ugh, about halfway into the housing/insert area........a well meaning friend (he has done a lot of work on his motorcycles/4 wheeler engines) said he would give it a try to drill/tap the piece of bolt out - yet it was difficult due to the nature of aluminum - he got part of the piece out and put a "coil" piece in -- and I am thankful for his efforts -- yet I cannot get the metal water pump plate to line up correctly (because the bolt does not go into the insertion area correctly) so that it can be placed/tightened correctly -- my friend was nervous to drill more and I have no skill in this area -- I brought it to a general machinist shop but they said they would not work on it because I had already done so (liability) -- so as of now I cannot get the water pump plate/bolt in place so it seems to have made the lower unit un-usable (if you or anyone have any suggestions I am open to hearing them --- I can provide pictures) I looked around on line today and and there are two "blown up motors" that have "fully functioning" lower units for sale (1 an hour away, one 2 hours away) that I may try and go see later in the week

Hello - I have damage to lower unit of my motor, so if I am to use the motor I will need to replace the lower unit. I am looking into several solutions and seeking to find out if people here have experiences (positive or negative) in solving an issue like this. 1. Has anyone purchased a used lower unit ? if so did it have a positive outcome or negative outcome for you ? (I am researching to make sure what used lower units would be compatible with the motor - which is a 93' Evinrude 90hp V4) 2. Has anyone purchased a re-manufactured lower unit ? positive or negative experience with it ? 3. Has anyone purchased an aftermarket new lower unit ? positive or negative experience with it ? 4. I have an opportunity to purchase a 78' Johnson Javelin 85hp (to potentially replace the 93' Evinrude 90hp V4), so this might be an option, it is a well cared for engine that runs smoothly, yet it is 46 years old and would require lifting off the engine/cables/ect...... Thank you in advance for your time/efforts/thoughts.

Enjoying watching and reading the posts -- unfortunately an engine issue has kept me off the water -- trying to figure out the best approach to moving forward (- bolt broke off in the water pump housing area when I was looking to replace the auger/pump -- attempt to drill out/re-tap/put a coil in has not worked -- machine shop said they will not try and fix as aluminum is risky to work with and too much liability -- so I am exploring purchase of a remanufactured lower unit/a new lower unit/a used lower unit or potentially purchasing an old 78' Johnson Javelin 85hp engine someone in the neighborhood has and having that placed on the boat -- all options are more pricey than I would like)

@Siebert Outdoors and Dirty Jigs are the only two type of jigs I have Last summer Dirty Jigs California Jig in Bluegill worked well as did Siebert's Sniper PBJ

@MNfisher Columbia makes high quality gear -- I have a few bucket/sun hats, gloves, wind proof hoodies, sun shirts and other gear from them and those all have withstood the test of time in the elements.

It seems quite a few reviews that I have read about hard baits/lures talk about how great a lure looks when new yet after a few catches that hard bait/lure loses it's paint. It seems some brands, such as Lucky Craft or others, have many reviewers talking about this. If this is the case with a bait/lure -- do you make a pre-emptive effort to use clear coat (or something similar) to avoid the paint loss ? If so what do you use ? Also curious if putting some something like this on the bait/lure will significantly change the action of the bait/lure ? Certainly some marks/paint loss will occur if a bait/lure is doing it's job (catching fish) -- this would be more about if a bait/lure is losing paint with minimal usage. Thank you in advance for sharing your expertise/experiences.

The DNR put their docks in (the city has not done so at their ramps).....along with 60 degree weather......so the DNR lot was full and several in the over flow lot when I looked after work today.....I counted 20 plus boats on the water......I still have to de-winterize the boat and get some minor motor things done (a friend cleaned and put new kits in the carbs for me so I need to put them back on and a few other things)......will try and get that done tomorrow (taking the day off work to go to the NCAA Frozen 4 at the X) and perhaps will dunk the boat in the water on Sunday if all goes well

Today on the way back from work it looked like half dozen or more boats were out on Lake Reno -- the access points do not require docks to dunk your boat in to the lake -- I did not see anyone out on my local lake (but it has over 8,800 acres so I cannot see it all), several of the drop in points on the local lake are difficult to put your boat in without the docks being in place so it makes sense if no boats are out yet -- but that might change over the weekend as the weather is supposed to be nice on Saturday (close to 60) before dropping off to 40 and rain for Sunday/Monday -- I still have some work to do to de-winterize the boat and have it ready to go -- but will make progress towards that on Saturday -- if you can get enjoy it !!

Here in the Alexandria area there is still some ice on the lakes -- smaller/shallower lakes seem to have about 25 to 30 yards of ice (from the shore outward into the water) and the larger lakes about 15 to yards of ice --- also still about 4 inches of snow on the ground in many places -- I have to de-winterize the boat and do some motor prep -- so I am thinking most likely mid-April to have the boat on the water to do some crappie/bluegill/panfish searching

Last year I would wear some swim goggles when it got cold/uber windy (they worked well to protect the eyes and didn't fog up at all, but only offered coverage for the eyes)....based on your vid I might give my ski/snowmobile goggles a go this year.....thank you for the vid -- Lake Menderchuck's glass table top water looked beautiful !

Thank you @gimruis and @A-Jay.....I have ordered a 110 GP Pro Perch and an FX 110 Pumpkin Seed.....my hope is that these will pull more fish....yet I fully understand that there is more to it than just throwing a lure in to the water

Thank you @RichF and @12poundbass for the info. I ordered the Pilot II Jacket and Bibs from Midway......living in MN for close to 20 years I have purchased and wear legit cold weather gear......yet my rain gear for warmer temps has seen better days (it still functions and will be donated).....although not perfect/the most high end rain gear....I believe the Frogg Toggs Pilot II gear is an excellent deal from Midway ($189 for both the jacket and the bibs) so I pulled the trigger on it

I have purchased a couple of 110's, 110 Jr + 1 this winter and I look forward to trying them this year. I have purchased Matt Shad, Gillkko, Stealth Wakasagi (110's) and GLX Northern Secret, GG Perch (110 Jr. +1) -- I may look to purchase a GP Pro Perch or GP Ayu based on @A-Jay placing them at the top of his list (is GP Pro Perch a special run color/style or is it generally available ? what does the GP stand for ?) Thank you !

Well.....winters vacation is over and it has decided to come roaring back in.....we had about 4 inches of snow Thursday and temps have dropped hard.....now they are calling for 18 to 21 inches of snow with 35 to 45 mph winds from Sunday thru Wednesday.....thankfully I did not de-winterize the boat yet.....I don't think the lakes will fully re-freeze (some of the smaller lakes are now skimmed over again with ice) but it will certainly delay things (docks being put in, lots being cleared, ect...).....blah

Unfortunately the weather here is reverting to "normal" (after quite a mild winter to this point) - today it's plus 10 degrees (I have learned that here in MN it's best to put a plus/minus with a temp as most places in the country if you say it's 30 people assume it's plus 30 but here it just may be minus 30) - looks as though over the next 10 days it will be around 32 during the day and teens at night with 3 or 4 days calling for some snow - the two local lakes had been declared "ice free" and I was getting ready to de-winterize the boat - yet those plans are now on hold.......

I recently purchased a Piscifun Carbon X II 1000 to use for some crappie/pan fishing as it looks like the lakes here will be free of ice well before the May 11th bass season opens...I am happy to hear you have had good experiences with them since this the first Piscifun I have purchased