ABC123

Why not just get a cheap $20 glass rod, then get what you want when the $$$ is there???

My 2 cents is... I have 2 Fuego's and a Sol. I got them new from Sportsmans warehouse for $160 each. IMO they are well worth the $160-$180 that SW was, maybe still are, selling them for. But, IMO, I think they are a little overpriced at the $230 MSRP. I have not used any lite lures with them, I use the Sol for those, so I can not say how it works with sub 3/8 oz lures. The Fuego has the Z brake, so it does work a little better than the Sol. I would think it can be adjusted to cast lite lures fine.

Ahhh, didn't think about the bag/backpack. Slick. 8-)

I have seen this before in other threads. I am wondering what you do with it at each location??? I find it hard to believe that everywhere you go you find the perfect place to set it. Do you strap it to tree's to hold it up? Hang it from a branch? Set it where ever it lay's??

A rod can only transfer what the line is sending, but then again, a more sensitive rod can better transfer what the line is sending. With the popularity of Fluoro and braid, the need for rod sensitivity has gone down a little, there is still nothing, that I have tried, that compares to the feeling of braided line on a GLX or IMX rod.

The reason why Loomis does not offer IMX/GLX in Crankbait rods is becouse, the materials used to make the crankbait rods, are not the same. Crankbait rods are a special blend to give it the proper balance of light weight and flexability, while still being sensitive. The reason why they don't make the spinnerbait rods in GLX is becouse of demand. If you notice, there are quite a few rods that are IMX, but not GLX, in certain lengths. A lot of the technique specific blends, don't have an IMX, just a GLX, upgrade. Mossyback is one example. Bronzeback is another. So is the Walleye series.

I did some shore river fishing last year. If I plan on doing more, I am going to pick up an old golf club cart. The 2 wheeled cart you drag behind while walking the course.

Best time to use braid over mono would be heavy cover or when you have a lot of line out, like trolling. Most any application, braid can be used, but those are the ones to use braid first, if you are looking to try braid. Jigs are another place where braid will work better than mono. I prefer braid over mono for jigs, worms, and the likes. I use a leader, but it's not mandatory. I like leaders for a few reasons. I can just cut the leader off and replace it, and not lose much braid. I like the way the braid counter acts the braids floating properties, to give a more neutral action. I also like the idea of having less visible line near the lure.

The surgeon knot is the best, but if you have enough leader to where the knot goes through the guides, casting will be a PITA. I use the uni-uni knot, but I will be doing a side by side comparison with the Alberto knot this year.

Hey guy's/gal's, nothing to get excited over. Shimano made it clear, in black and white, as long as the reel was bought from an authorized dealer or reseller in the U.S., D.C., P.R., or U.S. military base, is NOT combined with any other factory offer, and was NOT purchased via an online auction, it qualifies. You can buy from E-bay STORES, but not an E-bay, or any other, online auction. Normally Shimano likes to keep price control so ALL thier dealers get a fair chance to sell the product, but some stores will sell cheaper sometimes. If you find one of those stores, more power to you. Oh, I forgot, it has to be a new reel, not used or refurbished.

Now that is something. It's one thing going to where they are supposed to be, and see them, but to see them out and about is all the better. It does look like he was working though. Maybe was heading to, or just coming from, something at the BPS???

That 22 foot deep one could have one form, but not the shallower ones. Up here in MN, shallow 10-15 foot lakes experience freeze outs becouse they don't have a turn over.

I have not done any research on it, but I am very willing to assume it is a glacial lake. The 2 lakes that flow into it are rather shallow, and are not the best for fishing. The lake that this one flows into is a pretty good fishing lake, and the one that lake flows into is a famous (within the state) fishing lake known for it's Bass and Walleye. 2 other lakes on the chain are also well know fisheries.

I had 4 reels mailed to me last year, of those 4 reels, 4 worked perfectly. If I have to go over a product with a fine tooth comb before buying it, I probably should think twice about buying the product in the first place. I did get a defective Shimano last year, that is part of the reason why I have Pflueger's and Daiwa's. If I'm not the first person to look at the reel taken from stock, I will not buy it. Same with rods. Stores should have display models, and stock in the back that they give to the customer.

West central MN. I have fished it at all times from sun up to near dark. I've thrown worms in the weeds, topwaters, run cranks along the drop off, vertical jigged, but I have not Carolina rigged through there. Water clarity is around 4-6 ft. Temps (water) have ranged from 65-80+ degrees. I really haven't worked it much, but I do try for Bass a little, every time I go there. 4-6 times a year.

Hmmm, maybe a little Bass fishing vacation to TX is in order.

Aluminum oxide is a cheap guide, if modern $150 rods are being sold with them, I would steer clear of that maker.

I can see the local DEA agents kicking in your door after reading that post. ;D

I get 2 years out of braid. Spooled up first year, strip it off, swap it end for end, and use it the second year. I don't spool fluorcarbon, but it should work out the same. Mono is a cut the damage off and keep using until there is not much left. Strip off the remaining and respool fresh. That's the way I do it. Maybe RW will tell you what he does for Yo-Zuri, for when you switch to that, as he is the resident expert on that brand.

;D ;D ;D I don't want to directly knock the store, but that is FUNNY! ;D ;D ;D

Most "low cost" rods won't handle braid becouse of the soft guide material. Most "low cost" rods do not have good cork or foam (if they have cork at all). Most "low cost" rods are not nearly as sensitive. Most "low cost" rods do not hold up as well, meaning they start to loose their action and power becouse of inferior materials. Most "low cost" rods are not backed by the maker very well, some stores will back thiers though. Some "low cost" rods are light weight, but the way they make them light is not good. Most "low cost" rods have fewer guides, which is not good. Sometimes just one guide can make the difference between a good rod, and a great rod. Short 2 or more guides is the same difference as a moonless night, and high noon on a cloudless summer day. Most, but not all "pricey" rods have some magin of "name" in the price. Meaning you do pay for the name on top of the quality. Well, that's about the only drawback to a "pricey" rod I can think of.

Yes, that is where the panfish hold. I have had the kids fish for panfish, while I made a few casts for Bass. The panfish bite dries up at certain times of the day, but no Bass seem to bite. I have worked other lakes in the area, with the same structure and panfish bite, minus the heavy weeds, and had good success. I was thinking maybe the weeds were a drawback to the structure??? Maybe too dense?? They are THICK in the summer. Very difficult to go into with a trolling motor.

The lake...the lake is literally shaped just like a wishbone. The lake has a general max depth in the 45 foot range. It it very symetrical, meaning it drops off rather quickly and holds the depth through both legs. There are some small flats, but not very big. The spot in question... the north end of the lake is where the 2 legs come together and form a bay. On one side of the bay is an outbound waterway. On the otherside, there is a flat 3-6 foot depth with dense weeds (Milfoil) that drops off rather quickly into 20+ feet of water. This area does hold sunfish/bluegills throughout the summer. I have searched for Bass a little, but only pulled up one smaller one (1.5lb). Should I work the weeds harder? Should I work the drop off deeper? There is Bass in the lake, I do reasonably well when I fish it for Bass on one of the legs, along the shore. Quite a way's from this spot though.

I don't have any pictures, and can not locate my camera at the moment, but I have 2 tackle boxes full of lures, rigs, and some reels from the 30's-50's. My Grandfather was a guide for many years back then.

I think I posted this before, but, the way I buy topwater lures is.... Natural colored bottoms. Yellow, white, green, black. Natural colors for a fish to see, if the fish sees it. I buy different colored/patterned tops, so I can see them while working them. The brighter the sunlight, the darker the top. If the water reflection/background is bland, I use patterned top. If the background/water reflection is broken up, I use a solid color. I like to visually work topwater lures.