Anyone one here deep crank with a heavy/fast rod and then use mono and a light drag? I need a rod to handle deep and heavy cranks, and was wondering if anyone has successfully used a 7'6'' h/f for with mono/flouro for stretch and a lighter drag setting. I don't think it would hurt the arms/wrists as bad either.....

Jeff

prefer the MHM for that, I have tried MHF and had good days and had days I pull my hair out, and can';t even get hooked up let alone keep em on. But everyone is a little different, maybe you could have better luck than me. I have a habit of using a fast handle turn and hard yank at the same time, a hard habit to break when you are use to fishing very long and deep with single hook finesse setups, not always beneficial especially for fast moving treble work.

This rod would be mainly for other purposes but 1 week a year a deep crank. And that is all I would throw that one week so it is important for that.

Jeff

It depends on how heavy a lure you're talking about. Crankbaiting is one of the few techniques where maximum casting distance is a real advantage. It lets the lure obtain max depth and keep it in the strike zone longer. Too heavy of a rod won't load and cast at it's peak as I'm sure you know. I understand not wanting to buy a rod for 1 week a year, but if that week's really that hot, well....

The Dobyns Randy McAbee cranking rod 805 handles deep divers well.

I dont see why you couldnt make it work as long as you keep in mind you are using a fast action rod. Its not something I would recommend to a beginner but and experienced angler shouldnt have any problems.

Jeff -

 

 I am going to try to get it done with a St Croix Tidemaster Inshore Travel Casting Rod.

 

Either of the sticks listed below when match with the 20lb mono should handle the load.

 

 

Model           Length   Power    Action    PCS  Line Weight   Lure Weight   Rod Weight  Handle

TIC70MHF3    7'           MH         Fast       3       10 - 20          1/2 - 11/4           5.0              4

TIC76MHF3   7'6"         MH        Fast        3       10 - 20          1/2  - 1/14          5.85            5

 

http://stcroixrods.com/product/tidemaster-inshore

 

 

A-Jay

 

 

 

I think my telescoping Cranking stik will come in handy

I use the Rick Clunn Wright & McGill glass rods and it makes the deep cranks a breeze.  Less stress on my wrists.  

to address your question... and not recommend rods... 

no i have not used a heavy rod for that....BUT...

knowing that you will allow for the rod strength by adjusting the line and drag....  i think it should work ok.... imo

obviously the only way to tell would be to give it a try.  but if you are only doing it one week a year....it would be worth it to give it a shot and see before you go buy a rod for just that.

if you have a MH.... depending on the rod (since not all manuf ratings are the same) i would be ready to give that a shot too... 

good luck Jeff.....let us know how it works out..

If you bring over my Huds, you can borrow my Lamiglas SR705R for as long as you need it!

It's rigged and ready.

 

 

 

 

For deep cranks DD22 etc. I prefere a MH/M in 7' - 7'6" setup with a 5.4:1 GR super upgraded/tuned...

I have a deep cranking rod for here. St croix mh/m. This will be left at travel destination year round for use, but should only need it to crank 1 week a year.

Jeff

Jeff I use a Dobyns Champion 7'6" H-F, trimmed down to 7'2", for deep cranks, and it works just fine. A high speed Zillion, spooled with 12lb mono, drag set a little looser than normal, also does nicely. I also use this setup for frogs and buzzbaits.

Jeff I use a Dobyns Champion 7'6" H-F, trimmed down to 7'2"

 

 

Trimmed down?  Please detail your "trimming" method, LOL.

 

I know quite a few guys up here that use long, heavy/fast rods for deep cranks.  I actually use my light swimbait rod (custom build on the Legend Tourney Swimbait blank, 4C79HF) for big divers when fishing for northern pike. 

Seems like it will work just fine then. Just need to experiment a little with the right line and drag setting. That is what I figured.

Jeff

Jeff, I just use STRONG line - P-Line CXX in 20#.  No reason to adjust the drag.  Probably have mine set to about 5 or 6# of resistance.  That's plenty to move a big fish and load up enough of the rod so it becomes a shock absorber, which is more important than thinking the line or drag will protect from shake offs.

J, How deep will the cranks go on your 20?

I have a deep cranking rod for here. St croix mh/m. This will be left at travel destination year round for use, but should only need it to crank 1 week a year.

Jeff

Geez, you getting a condo on Baccarac?

Trimmed down?  Please detail your "trimming" method, LOL.

 

I know quite a few guys up here that use long, heavy/fast rods for deep cranks.  I actually use my light swimbait rod (custom build on the Legend Tourney Swimbait blank, 4C79HF) for big divers when fishing for northern pike.

The handle was way too long. I cut it down until it felt better and made a plug to cap it off.

I was thinking more along the lines of ceiling fan.

I was thinking more along the lines of ceiling fan.

I have done that, I be ashamed to admit, but not this time. I trimmed this rod on purpose. LOL!