Jig Fishing Questions

[nixdorf]

How many jigs do you guys lose? I've been fishing football head jigs on rocks in 2-20 foot of water. On average, I lose one jig an hour due to hang ups. Is this normal?

I'm fishing mostly football head jigs with both 12# flourocarbon and 30# braid. I'm on a boat, so when I get hung up I troll over to the other side and jerk. I usually get my bait free. Usually.

Should I step up to 50-60 # braid? I don't mind losing 5-7 jigs per trip, but the wife sure doesn't like me buying replacements all the time!

[Choporoz]

Nixdorf, I think you should experiment with some different shaped heads, especially different line ties.

     I'm fairly new to jigging for bass, so take my words with a grain of salt....but, I think that you'll learn far more about different bass jigs if you buy a few different ones and work them yourself.  BassResources's jig videos are a good start.  But, man....until you find what works for you....not just catching, but work them through the cover you fish...the bottom of your lakes/rivers...you just can't apply the words you read from anyone else all that well.  At least I can't.  Now this is NOT a knock, because I absolutely LOVE Mike's jigs, but even the Siebert site uses much the same description for a number of very different jigs.  Your rocks, your hopping style, your line your skirt, your trailer are all going to have a unique effect on how you come through stuff. 

[MIbassin]

What are some times of year/conditions when you guys throw a large profile jig? For example, the mata jigs from Siebert

[Ozark_Basser]

Just let the bass tell you what they want.....at all times.

[WPCfishing]

Here's a little piece I put together, The jig is my favorite lure to fish because of it's versatlity.

Representation,

First let's start with what a jig represents underwater, I believe the most

Popular use of it is to imitate a Crayfish but they also can imitate baitfish as well.

Jigs come in many different shapes, sizes and colors etc. The most popular crayfish imitators seem to be the good old skirted jig usually tipped with some sort of plastic or pork trailer.

Speaking of sizes, shapes, colors, I'm only going to really get into the skirted jig with a plastic or pork trailer as this is the bait I primarily use, and use it as a crayfish imitator only.

Sizes,

There is a very large size range available,

I mainly use 3 sizes of Jigs in my arsenal or depending on manufacturer the closest weight to these sizes 3/8 oz , ½ oz and ¾ oz.

I will mainly use a 3/8oz when fishing really shallow. The presentation has more time to be subtle because of the lighter weight than just crashing on the bottom in the shallow water.

1/2 oz. Jig

This is my go to, if there was only one jig weight aloud in my box, this would be it. I guess you could say the happy medium. I fish this 99 percent of the time from a regular bank down to 15 ft and anything in between.

The only time I go to a 3/4 oz. Is if I need to get through some thick weeds, the wind is really blowing or I am fishing dep but want to fish it faster than normal.

Colors,

I don't get crazy on colors when it comes to jigs. I have 3 colors that I have a ton of confidence in and those are Browns, Greens, and Black. It seems the jig has excepted rules on what colors for what conditions were faced with, green or brown, natural colors for clearer water and black or darker colors for murkier water or night time. I do follow that to a point but not because of the rule but because I have confidence in throwing those baits in those conditions. Ive caught fish in clear water with a black jig and fish in murky water and at night with a green jig so what's that tell us. Color is confidence in my book.

Trailers/Chunks

These come in many shapes and sizes, Most of them are made to represent the pincher end of the crayfish which are either threaded or simply hooked on to the jig.

I go rather simple in this area as far as selection.

I mainly use 3 colors in 2 sizes, Green, Brown and Black in 2 or 3 sizes I always match the color of the trailer with the jig, (just a confidence thing)

I will normally start off fishing with a 2 trailer in tournaments, I feel the smaller size may get me more bites in order to get my limit then I may upgrade trailer size to go after larger fish, but there is no rule here either, as I have caught fish over 6lbs. on 2 trailers and fish less than 12 on 3 trailers.

As far as the many styles and brands of trailers, my selection is simple I use my own, I feel they give me the best chances of catching fish and here is why: When a bass hits a jig they will normally engulf the whole lure, Jig and trailer. It only takes a split second for that fish to reject the bait if it notices anything artificial about it. When I make my trailers I add a lot of crayfish oil to the plastic prior to cooking then once poured they go through a 2 stage salting process. Once you get a fish to bite them they are hard pressed to let it go because there is so much taste for them. Because there is so much craw oil in the plastic it makes the baits very soft which helps release the oils and salt when the bait is bitten. (Shameless Plug I know, but the truth as well)

The Bite!

I have been fishing a jig predominantly for the last few years and have probably experienced every type of bite possible, but then again maybe not, sometimes you don't feel anything at all, then sometimes they almost rip the rod out of your hand, and then you have everything in between, you must always be ready to set the hook.

It is a must to be a line watcher when fishing a jig because you may not always be in direct contact with the lure, and the little twitch in the line that you didn't see could have been a 10 fish or the fish of a lifetime.

One thing I really like to do is know the depth of the water I'm casting to, I feel this is very important, a ½ oz jig on 15lb mono sinks at about 1ft per second. So I know if I'm casting it into 12ft of water and the line stops sinking when I count to 6, something sucked it in, reel in any slack and set the hook.

This is where I believe salts and scents are very handy, normally when I'm fishing a jig I'm fishing some type of structure, rocks, wood, grass, etc. with the equipment on the market you can pretty much feel everything the lure bumps into, when first getting into jig fishing I might have questioned myself was that a fish or a rock, don't know for sure. But now using my own baits and good equipment as well as a lot of time fishing the jig, I have the confidence in them to know that when I feel that little bump, I can pause and wait a second or two to see if there is any activity or lack there of on the end of the line before ramming the hook into a nice bass, or a stump.

Equipment:

For fishing these type and size of jigs, I use a 7' Heavy action bait casting rod, I feel this is very important and will not use a Jig on anything lighter, for a few reasons, 1.) These jigs normally have stout hooks that require a decent amount of force to get good penetration. I don't want to take the chance of losing a big fish because my rod didn't have enough power to drive the hook home, 2.) You have the weed guard to deal with as well when setting the hook. 3.) A lot of times the bass will really clamp down on a jig to crush it making it harder to move the jig on the set to get a good hook set, I noticed this especially with small mouth bass. As for the brand of rod that is personal preference but I think you should get the best you can afford in this area or the added sensitivity.

For a reel, I prefer High speed reels 6.1:1 or 6.3:1 and a decent amount of line retrieval per handle turn. I like this because I can pick up any slack really fast as well as keep up with the fish if it is charging towards me. This is another brand preference issue, I prefer smaller profile reels so I can palm the reel and rest the line going into the reel on my pointer finger for extra sensitivity.

Line

I mainly use 15 lb test mono line for most jig fishing, I don't really go any lighter than that, I will go heavier for certain situations depending on a few factors, structure or cover that I'm fishing, or even the size of the fish I have a chance at catching will dictate the size. In really clear water I will use fluorocarbon line for reduced visibility. And if I need to go above 20 lb mono for any reason I will switch to a braid for line diameter purposes. You can use any of the three all the time, these are just my preferences and how I utilize each for certain situations.

This is not intended to be a know all of Jig fishing document, these are the ways and equipment I personally like to use and have confidence in for the situations I face,(Notice the title) there are so many variables in fishing that could call for a different tactic from the lure type and size, to the tackle and line, it would be impossible to list them all.

Some techniques I use...

When I make a cast I let the bait sink, you must always watch your line, a lot of times they will hit it on the initial fall and your line will either twitch, stop before it should, or start going sideways, when this happens reel up the slack and set the hook. If the bait makes it to the bottom I will wait about 3 or 4 seconds and then drag it about 6-8 inches (Right now he's just cruising on the bottom), then pause, after 3-4 seconds drag again, and repeat this. Once I feel any obstruction, I pause then shake without dragging, I feel this simulates the crayfish trying to burrow under whatever obstacle it just bumped into. Then I give it 2 quick very short snaps, this would simulate the crayfish fleeing from a predator, then let it hit bottom and repeat the whole process. A lot of times right after the pause when you go to drag again it will feel heavy, set the hook. Hook sets are free, If you haven't fished a jig a lot , it takes time before you can get a really good handle on determining fish bites from obstructions. Practice makes perfect and when in doubt set the hook.

That's for mostly open water hump style fishing and beating a bank. In cover I like to throw it in the nastiest stuff possible and shake it around then repeat casting to it (pretty much pick it to pieces.)

Don't ever think there is such a thing as to shallow, I use to cast to about a foot off shore till a guy on the back of my boat beat me bad, the fish were in that spot right on the bank, now I cast to were I'm pretty much hitting the shoreline.

A most Excellent Post!

[nixdorf]

Nixdorf, I think you should experiment with some different shaped heads, especially different line ties.

I'm fairly new to jigging for bass, so take my words with a grain of salt....but, I think that you'll learn far more about different bass jigs if you buy a few different ones and work them yourself. BassResources's jig videos are a good start. But, man....until you find what works for you....not just catching, but work them through the cover you fish...the bottom of your lakes/rivers...you just can't apply the words you read from anyone else all that well. At least I can't. Now this is NOT a knock, because I absolutely LOVE Mike's jigs, but even the Siebert site uses much the same description for a number of very different jigs. Your rocks, your hopping style, your line your skirt, your trailer are all going to have a unique effect on how you come through stuff.

Great response. Thank you.

Since the previous post, I did try a different head shape (Dredge Brush from Siebert). I rarely got hung up, and only lost one. I'm happy so far, but I'm going to keep experimenting.

Thanks for the tip!

[JayFry]

Jackall has a new rubber jig head called the Spade jig

http://www.jackall-lures.com/products/spade_jig.html

I guess the rubber makes it sink a little slower looked interesting. Really like all there products

[BradGuenette]

That jig head is tungsten. It cuts down on the size of the jig for a more compact presentaion, also because tungsten is more dense than lead, vibrations are transmitted to the line, instead of deadened in the softness of lead.

[nestor]

Joe S. -  Great write-up.  It gave me the confidence to commit to the jig for an evening.  My confidence us boasted further after catching this guy on one of the first flips - 

 

 

[Ozark_Basser]

That jig head is tungsten. It cuts down on the size of the jig for a more compact presentaion, also because tungsten is more dense than lead, vibrations are transmitted to the line, instead of deadened in the softness of lead.

Kinda looks like rubberized tungsten. I believe it's cheaper to make heads from rubberized tungsten, also easier to make.

[J Francho]

That jig head is tungsten. It cuts down on the size of the jig for a more compact presentaion, also because tungsten is more dense than lead, vibrations are transmitted to the line, instead of deadened in the softness of lead.

Actually, this jig works in reverse. The head is tungsten and rubber, which is lower in density than lead. Also, I've never equated lthe relative pliability of lead as "deadened." If it feels dead to you, your rod needs upgrading!

[JayFry]

Got this one on about 3 pounder

Blue/Black football head 3/8oz

Damiki hydra junebug color

Hit right on top of a bed of weeds he hit it on top. I was fishing from behind cat tails so I had to walk out in some ankle high water to get him but well worth it. Haha it was pour a couple minutes before but I wanted to try out new shimano sellus 7'2 worm jig pole. Helped get a good hook set from a distance. Something I've been having a huge issue with when casting 50 yards.

[Canyon explorer]

I fish jigs year around because with specific adjustments you can tune the jig to the seasonal pattern they are on. Very basic examples of how I do it are as follows:

 

1. In the winter ( water temps 32 –39’) a bass’s metabolism is very low as is his activity and feeding efforts. I favor a 5/16 oz. –1/2 oz. brown or black/blue jig as you can fish it very slow.  I use a #11 Pork frog trailer as it stays pliable in cold water and slows the fall as you barely hop and work it  on south facing chunk rock banks and points.  In addition to jigs I also use Mega Baits Vision 110 jerk bait very slow in the same locations.
2. Pre spawn bass begin to move to staging areas at channel swings and points out from pea gravel pockets/banks. I use the Eakin’s style 5/16 oz. Jig  with a Chomper twin tail trailer and ½ oz. Football jigs with a pork chunk. In addition I also use Carolina rigged lizards and suspended jerk baits with a quicker cadence.
3. I do not use jigs on bedded fish. (white Gitzit tubes and lizards are best for me.
4. From post spawn to summer, in the Mid West, bass begin moving to structure e.g. ledges, points with structure, (usually man made) and especially brush piles around docks. I use 3/8” Arkies and ½ oz. Football jigs with  with the back end of Zoom Baby brush hogs and  other  creature baits.
5. In the Fall bass move, (follow the shad) towards the back of creeks. I like to fish those creeks that are windblown. I swim light colored Arky jigs down the sides and tight to corners over brush. I also use spinner baits on this same pattern if the fish are aggressive. Position your boat as far off  the docks as you can and pitch jigs to the shady areas of walk ways.
6. If I could use only one bait it would be a jig workable in the three best places e.g. the Top, the Bottom, all the water in between. Not many other baits can do that.

[dam0007]

Jig fishing tip:

Thursday through Saturday I caught tons of fish on jigs. Never had a legit hit. Everyone they picked it up and either sat there or started moving ever so slightly. So advice for the day. If you make a handful of pitches to the same spot and feel the same thing each pitch, then another pitch something feels "off" that's a fish! And I'll reiterate what's been said 100s of times. Watch your line! With exception of maybe 1 tick bite that felt like a bluegill, ended up being a 4lb LMB, I never felt any of them.

[Ozark_Basser]

Anybody ever tested the ROF of a jig? I know there are tons of factors like jig weight, thickness of skirt, trailer type/weight, etc. I Just wanted to know if anyone has tried it. What weight and trailer?

[fireandice]

Jig = Best bass lure of all time in my opinion.

 

My tips for success:

• Leave everything else at home
• Find a jig mentor - I didn't realize how wrong I was doing it until I fished with someone who had it mastered
• Watch your line !!! - Most 5 lb+ fish I catch take the jig with a very light gulp.  It may only appear as a line twitch
• Set the hook hard and fast.  If you're not sure it's a bass, at least you didn't miss one for failure to set the hook !
• Throw that thing up on the rocky shore and drag it off twitchy.  Some of my biggest fish appeared to be sitting in 2" of water!
• Colors: Black, Brown, Green, and I carry one that most folks do not... White (for bedding bass in early spring or very bright days and clear water)
• If you're fishing heavy cover, use a jig that handles it well, such as the Denny Brauer Pro Model
• Jigs are expensive. Find one you like, stick with it, and then buy several colors and sizes of trailers instead of buying 10 kinds of jigs.
• Use heavy line for pulling fish from heavy cover.  I prefer 14 or 20 lb. Trilene XT or Berkely Big Game mono for heavy cover.
• Buy a quality rod!  Do not cheat yourself here.  Throw away the Ugly Stik and spend $75+ on a good rod.  You'll be amazed at what you can feel.
• The reel is not that important!  Any decent baitcaster will work.  You don't need a $600 Calais to pitch a jig all day.

[nixdorf]

Anybody ever tested the ROF of a jig? I know there are tons of factors like jig weight, thickness of skirt, trailer type/weight, etc. I Just wanted to know if anyone has tried it. What weight and trailer?

I haven't done any accurate rate of fall testing, but I have a simple method to do this on the water. It is not very accurate, but it works for me with any jig/trailer combo. I use it to estimate when the jig should hit bottom, and has been useful for detecting strikes on the fall.

Before I start fishing deep water, I strip out a little line until my jig is roughly even with my rod handle. Then I drop the jig in the water with the tip of my pole close to the water and count down until the line goes tight. I usually use a pole that is 7' long, and most of my 3/4 oz jig/trailer combos pull the line tight in roughly 5 seconds. Obviously, the rate of fall for the above is 7 feet per 5 seconds. This time of year, I'm usually fishing water that is 20 foot deep, so the jig should be on the bottom within 15 seconds.

Again, this isn't accurate, but it gives me a good indication of when the jig should hit bottom. When I cast and my jig hits the water, I strip out line by hand and count to 15. If my line stops moving (sinking) well before it should be on bottom or well after, I set the hook. I've caught fish both ways, but have had a few misses.

Not sure if this helps or even makes sense, but it works for me.

[BassTravis]

Dirty Jigs makes some excellent jigs!   Thru trial and error, Rage Tail Craws and Netbait make the best trailers IMO

[Choporoz]

 

• The reel is not that important!  Any decent baitcaster will work.  You don't need a $600 Calais to pitch a jig all day.

 

I'm a relatively recent convert to the church of jig bassin, but I am struggling a little with this point.  Maybe it is because the jig rod is in my hands 80% of the time, but I've gotten somewhat picky and use my best reel for throwing the jig.

 

-I want the smoothest free spooling action for pitching and punching and 'tossing'

-The handles/grips have to be very comfortable - prolonged use, not to mention the hardest hooksets and dragging from cover make the handle/grips more important than I ever thought possible

-My 'cheaper' reels seem to be great for spinnerbaits, worms, jerkbaits, even frogs, but I want my best, most comfortable and fastest reel on my jig rod. 

 

I agree that the rod is absolutely critical as well....and I won't debate which is more important to spend more money on, but don't go cheap on your jig rod reel.

[fireandice]

Nothing but respect to you Choporoz. To each his own. I can understand why.you want a reel that works well. I guess even my worst reel I would consider to be good equipment. I just tend to reserve my smoothest casting equipment for making long casts with Carolina rigs or light baits that need to go a long distance. Either way, I'm glad you are a fellow jig thrower. I appreciate your take on the subject. I'm no guru by any means. Lol

[BassTravis]

So,  what size jigs do the Rage Lobsters fit on nicely?  I use the baby rage craws for 3/8 oz jig.

[jkoz88]

So,  what size jigs do the Rage Lobsters fit on nicely?  I use the baby rage craws for 3/8 oz jig.

BassTravis,

 

I use the 3/8 a lot as well, have you tried the rage tail menace? I've been getting hawgs like crazy the past few times out with that in blue flake or watermelon. Also I see you're from Columbus,GA, i'll be moving there in December hopefully I can find some good holes. Good luck to ya

[BassTravis]

BassTravis,

 

I use the 3/8 a lot as well, have you tried the rage tail menace? I've been getting hawgs like crazy the past few times out with that in blue flake or watermelon. Also I see you're from Columbus,GA, i'll be moving there in December hopefully I can find some good holes. Good luck to ya

Are you in the military?   When you move here, shoot me a pm.   I could tell you SEVERAL good places around here to fish

[jkoz88]

Are you in the military?   When you move here, shoot me a pm.   I could tell you SEVERAL good places around here to fish

Yes, I will be coming there to be a Drill so not sure how much time I have but I will shoot you a message and hopefully you could tell me/show me some spots, thanks and have a good one.

[monkeyman3dee]

When fishing along the shore and throwing a jig, sometimes I see bass lazily cruising along the shore, by the time I reel my jig in, they are nowhere to be seen. When that happens, do you pitch directly to the fish? or just ahead of him?

 

 

 

-Joshua