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Jig Fishing Questions


whj812

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On 6/20/2017 at 8:00 PM, Buffdaddy54 said:

Great info!! I also am new to jig fishing. I only have a med fast action rod, can I get away with using that? Please don't tell to buy a new rod, no money in the budget!

Definitely not preferred, but use what ya got! you'll be fine!

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  • Super User

If you mean a medium power, fast action rod, you'd be fine with jigs up to about 1/2 oz.  Would be great for 3/8 oz. jigs.

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I'm brand new to jig fishing and this thread has helped me a lot. I caught two fish yesterday on a 3/8 oz green pumpkin back attack with a biffle bug for trailer. Here's the thing, I lost FIVE fish that I hooked up with. I felt like I got solid hook sets on them. The fish I lost all hit the bait very close in, like 8-10 feet. I was using a Dobyns 735 with 50 lb braid. I attributed maybe losing the fish to them hitting so close and the set up not having enough give in it to play them that close and ripping the hooks out of their mouths. I was crossing their eyes on the hookset. Does my theory on losing so many sound reasonable or am I doing something wrong. Should I drop down to MH for that setup?

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id recommend a MH fast or XF for any jig over 1/4oz in any kind of cover. 1/4oz arkie jig with a small craw style trailer is a great bait to build confidence with. ive caught from a 3 inch bass to a 7 lb LMB bass on this type of jig.

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  • Super User

Thinking of phasing out my jigs for all black in 3/8oz and 5/8oz.  Does 5/8 have a significant increase in fall rate given that the trailer stays the same?  I like 3/8oz overall but want something faster to draw reaction strikes and fish deeper cover (12 ft+ brush etc...)

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I fish 3/8oz jigs exclusively, so take this with a grain of salt.  But...

 

When I fish other things (texas/carolina rigs, drop shot, etc), I definitely notice the difference in fall rate when I go up 1/4oz.  There's no reason to think you wouldn't similarly notice a real increase in fall rate with jig and trailer.

 

I would wonder why you wouldn't just go up to 3/4oz to be safe and give yourself that extra little bit of punch if you're ever trying to get through pads or other vegetation.

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If im punching vegetation Im going to use tungsten and soft plastic.  But 3/4 would get through some of the stuff I fish...but getting it back out may be difficult

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  • 1 month later...

Best way to understanding the jig fishing is to play around in ultra clear water such as pool or shallow dock. You'll see how much the trailers and skirting materials move with a little twitch.

Reason for stiff rod and low stretch line --- you need to 1. Turn the jig in the mouth 2. Pull the jig head out of locked jaws 3. Set the hook(the older the fish the more grissled the lip/jaw.

To understand how line stretch effects the hook set have your jig lift a bucket of 1/2 gallon of water over a rail while your back some 20 feet. Snug the line then pull the rod back until the bucket lifts. You'll be surprised to see how far you need to move the rod. Not all lines are the same.

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  • 4 weeks later...

So I fish a pond with some big big bass and no one fishes since no one can put in the time or effort to do so because there is a ton of hydrilla (not on top) but huge patches everywhere. When topwater isn't on or a good choice I always wanna just keep throwing jigs there and im fine at pitching to open holes, watching my line, and feeling what's what , but every retrieve I'm picking 2 pounds of stuff off. 

 

Ive thrown so many different jig heads and line but I have to keep my braid pound 30 on in this stuff. Throwing 3/4 or an ounce is only worse also. I wanna be able to just keep hitting hole after hole without picking grass every cast. 

 

Suggestions please? 

 

Sorry best pic I have 

IMG_0036.JPG.4f1acddb3160faf8330dc6dde1e53de5.JPG

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I have a jig tied on 95% of the time. I throw on a trailer to add a little more bulk, or make it look closer to a crawfish. I ussaly just give it two little hops with the rod and when I hit something underwater I ussaly shake it, or give it a rip.

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On 10/22/2017 at 11:53 PM, Tara-senko said:

So I fish a pond with some big big bass and no one fishes since no one can put in the time or effort to do so because there is a ton of hydrilla (not on top) but huge patches everywhere. When topwater isn't on or a good choice I always wanna just keep throwing jigs there and im fine at pitching to open holes, watching my line, and feeling what's what , but every retrieve I'm picking 2 pounds of stuff off. 

 

Ive thrown so many different jig heads and line but I have to keep my braid pound 30 on in this stuff. Throwing 3/4 or an ounce is only worse also. I wanna be able to just keep hitting hole after hole without picking grass every cast. 

 

Suggestions please? 

 

Sorry best pic I have 

IMG_0036.JPG.4f1acddb3160faf8330dc6dde1e53de5.JPG

I'd try a fluke with a small weighted hook. Cast it out and then small jerks with your rod about waist level. You want to imitate a fish going through the vegetation. Should get bit and you won't be picking out tins of that stuff

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It doesn't matter what's is on top of the water or above the water, what counts is what is below the surface.

30 lb braid is too small diameter for heavy 4/0 or 5/0 jig hooks. This is a job g thread but you would be better off using a weedless punch rig with streamline trailers like single tail grubs. I would use baitcasting reel, heavy jig rod and 60 lb braid, punch it through and shake it for a few minutes each cast.

Tom

 

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  • 2 months later...
On August-07-17 at 7:54 PM, Montanaro said:

Thinking of phasing out my jigs for all black in 3/8oz and 5/8oz.  Does 5/8 have a significant increase in fall rate given that the trailer stays the same?  I like 3/8oz overall but want something faster to draw reaction strikes and fish deeper cover (12 ft+ brush etc...)

Everything else being equal, the 5/8 will fall substantially faster than a 3/8.  Try it out.

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On 9/12/2007 at 11:15 AM, jaskoh said:

When is the proper time to use a jig? Year Round IMO

How do I work the lure? For me 75% of the time they hit it on the intitial fall. So make a good presentation and thats half the battle. If not let it settle to the bottom. Lift the Jig off the bottom and let it settle again.  Some people swim these baits but I have very little experience in that.

Are trailers required? and What advantages do they add? I always use trailers. Different size ones in different situations but always use them. It makes the jig drop slower which keeps it in front of the Bass' nose for a longer period of time. Not to mention the movement of the trailer creats more vibrations in the water.

Could not have said it better

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3 minutes ago, bowhunter22 said:

What’s everyone using for line? I’ve been using 40 lb braid and 15 lb flouro leader

For 3/8 to 3/4 ounce 50Lb braid to 17Lb copoly leader or straight 17Lb fluoro. 1 ounce or more 65Lb braid. 3/6 to 5/16 12Lb fluoro

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is all great info.  My 2 cents worth will be short.  If you fish a jig all day and catch the five fish that you felt bite it, then you missed the other fifty that bit without you knowing it.....

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I am not very experienced with true technique on jig fishing, so I am aware of all of the eye rolls as you read the next few sentences but bear with me, I am just trying to gain some enlightenment. . . .

 

I am having trouble realizing how I would feel a bass hit a jig on the initial fall unless it just hammers it or runs with it. I am thinking that when you cast the line is usually slack when it hits the water and unless you are fishing deep, it would be on the bottom before I would have my line taught. So how do you feel the initial hit if the line is slack?

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6 minutes ago, bobbyg said:

So how do you feel the initial hit if the line is slack?

Sometimes you feel it.  Sometimes you don't, but the line does something weird.  Sometimes you don't,but it stopped sinking before it got to bottom.  Feel, concentrate, and count your bait down.  Once it's down there, imagine everything the bait is doing and running into.  Anything that doesn't add up, it's probably a fish.

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