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Hobie Compass Mirage.  I used the custom Compass Trolley kit from Hobie.  Together in about ten minutes.  I t would work on most any boat, so it's an option.

 

IMG_1059-X2.jpg

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Kinda hard to see (bottom yak), and I’ve since shortened the paracord. Mine’s currently not drilled in, because I don’t have in hull access for a backing plate. I have a solution on how to do it, just haven’t had the time to do it. 

E2974BD2-67A6-4337-A46E-11DB219A96BE.jpeg

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I use this one from YakAttack.

860.JPG

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50 minutes ago, Smalls said:

I don’t have in hull access for a backing plate.

I've had no issues with the well nuts that came with the Hobie kit.

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Just got the yak attack yesterday and need to mount it

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20 minutes ago, J Francho said:

I've had no issues with the well nuts that came with the Hobie kit.

I know they’re probably more than sufficient, the backing plates just make me feel better. 

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I hear you.  Have you seen the rigging bullets from YakAttak?  That's probably your backing solution. By the way, that's a pretty sweet trailer setup.  Are riser/cross bars custom?

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2 hours ago, Smalls said:

I don’t have in hull access for a backing plate.

YakAttack use to sell rigging bolts to guide backing plates into place. I'm always using mine and keep two sets in the tool box. I've used them to mount backing plates that were over ten feet from any access hatch, they work.

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26 minutes ago, Harold Scoggins said:

YakAttack use to sell rigging bolts to guide backing plates into place. I'm always using mine and keep two sets in the tool box. I've used them to mount backing plates that were over ten feet from any access hatch, they work.

I just planned on using the string method. 

32 minutes ago, J Francho said:

I hear you.  Have you seen the rigging bullets from YakAttak?  That's probably your backing solution. By the way, that's a pretty sweet trailer setup.  Are riser/cross bars custom?

Thanks. I think I have a total of like $350 into it, including new hubs/bearings, the rack, bunks and hardware. 

 

Nope. They’re The cheap ones you can get shipped from Walmart/northern tool/harbor freight for like $70.  They’re just inverted to give me the width I needed. 

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That's a nice, clean looking trolley, John.

 

I'm using the Yak Gear trolley. It works. The only liberties I took with the instructions was to place my pulleys way out as far toward the tip of the bow and stern as possible, being concerned about positioning the boat. After being on the water, I'm not all that sure that tip to tip placement is all that important, although it may help keep that snaking to and fro in check, when in wind. What this did, though, was allow the lower line to slip under the hull a bit. It's turned out to be a minor inconvenience.

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8 minutes ago, Paul Roberts said:

What this did, though, was allow the lower line to slip under the hull a bit. It's turned out to be a minor inconvenience.

A single pad eye, strategically located, would resolve your issue.

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15 minutes ago, J Francho said:

A single pad eye, strategically located, would resolve your issue.

I thought that too, until I went to install one. My triangle ring is on the lower line, so that ring has to be free to run bow to stern. Of course I could add two pad eyes, a foot back from the end ones, as per the original instructions.

 

As it is, it's not a big issue.

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I have a Yakattack kit, still in the box.  I cannot decide what side I want to put it on.  Maybe 2020 will be the year I nut up and start drilling holes.  

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23 hours ago, fishwizzard said:

I have a Yakattack kit, still in the box.  I cannot decide what side I want to put it on.  Maybe 2020 will be the year I nut up and start drilling holes.  

Get another kit, do both sides. :P

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If you're just gonna do one side and primarily use it for a stake out pole, I opted for my right side after my old Outback had one on the left.  Why?  I'm right handed and stronger there, and more proficient at stabbing my stick in with force should I need it and clip in quickly. 

 

Left handed is gonna lose me a second, and even in a 14', 38" wide boat your positioning can change rather quickly, making the connection more difficult.

 

I'll post up my setup when I get home, I've got a pretty cool modification on my stake.  I used some paracord and a carabiner to add a sliding friction hitch to the pole to allow myself to clip into my anchor trolley at water level.  I don't pull my stake in current nearly as often as I used to.

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My trolley is way too loose. I need to get new line and redo it. :(

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@JG233, if it's too loose I don't see why you can't just cut it and retie.  Adding a 2-3' length of shock cord wouldn't hurt, either!

 

The shock cord will allow you to get that puppy tiiight and still allow for adjustment.

 

Square knot the shock cord into the paracord and finish the knot with an overhand in the tag of the paracord to prevent it from slipping.

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4 hours ago, J Francho said:

Get another kit, do both sides. :P

Last spring I installed a paddle holder on the right side which I eventually realized I’m not entirely happy with the position of, so now I have a serious case of decision paralysis want to comes to putting any more holes in the hull.  

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They're super easy to repair.  Look it up on the youtubes!

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Using these.  Perfect for the smaller 10footers.  No drill and I'm able to slide them back and forth just have to make sure to tighten one nut down

20190625_204946.jpg

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yakattak for me.  the lever lock is a great piece.  I also don't use a ring for mine and instead use a carabineer that i wrapped in gorilla tape.  Makes it easier to get anchor lines and stakeout poles in and out.

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