On 12/28/2019 at 5:55 AM, Ronaldo said:

Hello all, I just purchased an older pelican 10e and the floor is bubbled upwards in the front portion of the boat. considering boiling water with towels. The bubbled area is considerably softer and more flexible than the rest of the boat so I’m somewhat concerned that its irreparable. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. 

If the bubbling is just the plastic, I would install a floorboard made from marine plywood and covered in carpet.  That will distribute weight more evenly across the bottom of the boat and not directly on that bubbling spot (as well as make the bottom of the boat look nicer aesthetically).

 

If it is more than just the plastic, if the structure of the boat underneath has been compromised, then I would say it is irreparable.

On 12/28/2019 at 7:55 AM, Ronaldo said:

Hello all, I just purchased an older pelican 10e and the floor is bubbled upwards in the front portion of the boat. considering boiling water with towels. The bubbled area is considerably softer and more flexible than the rest of the boat so I’m somewhat concerned that its irreparable. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. 

How big is the bubbled area? Most of the guy's on this thread have, some sort of floor in the boat. I personally have a 3/8" piece of plywood with harbor freight anti fatigue mat glued down and covered with gray outdoor carpet from Lowes. Very comfortable to stand on especially barefoot. I know this is not the fix answer you were looking for. But if you can can cover it. Outta sight, outta mind. 

On 1/3/2020 at 2:34 AM, Angler102 said:

I have the bass raider 10 E and I regularly have myself 5'11 200 lbs and my brother(same weight) and we get around no problem with a 40lb thrust minn kota and a large deep cell battery from walmart. I usually pack the boat with a large cooler, 4 rods, tackle box, and I have never had a problem. I would like to go faster, so I am going to get an outboard at some point..Maybe a 3.5hp Tohatsu/Nissan or 2.5hp Suzuki..not sure yet..

If memory serves me correctly the Raider is rated for a 3.5. With that said I'd be very wary of flex in the transom. These boats will flex a great deal with a gas motor. This is one time I will say less is more. Personally I wouldn't put much more than a 55lb TM on mine. Right now I'm running a 32lb Minn Kota on the front. I plan to up grade to a 55lb but I'm a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" guy. My trusty old 32 has been on several boats in the 20 years that I've owned it. It just won't die. 

On 10/4/2019 at 4:55 PM, FishinDinks said:

Anyone put kayak rail systems like yakattack geartrac on their plastic boats? If so how well did it work for you?  I am think of mounting my transducer and fish finder on them. 

I used a Scottie mount for my transducer. I secured the mounting block to the rear motor mount plate. I simply pulled one of the bolts out. Went to Ace and got a longer bolt and utilized the existing hole. The block is very secure even thou it's only held on by 1 bolt. The arm attaches to the block and has a break away clutch that allow the transducer arm to kick up if it hits something. It does't self return but it's easy to push back down and your transducer doesn't get damaged. 

  Whats up Bass Raider fans? Well Christmas and New Years have come and gone. I hope everyone had a wonderful holiday season. Hopefully Santa filled all your fishing gear needs. I keep myself pretty stocked up on fishing gear so my Christmas list was short this year, at least in the tackle department. I did get a new reel, so now I need a new rod to go with it. LOL For the Raider I asked for a Millennium stainless boat seat, and Santa delivered. I am impressed with its construction and comfort. Now just so you know, me and the Pelican 10E and saw a bunch of fishing in 2019.

 I got the boat for Christmas Last year. I've made a few basic upgrades that can be found on this thread back in February of last year. For a seat I was using a 7" riser and a cheap camo folding seat from Wal-Mart. I fished around 50 days last year and the seat was shot. I pulled it off and replaced it with the new Millennium seat. Put it in the boat and sat down. Wow what a difference. Only problem was with the 7" riser and sitting in the seat my feet wouldn't touch the floor. I pulled the riser out and was pleasantly surprised to know I no longer needed the riser. The seat Is high enough and much deeper. This lowers the center of gravity back down a bit. I'm still in a higher seated position than I was using other seat. Which was the cause of me using riser in the first place. I can sit and stand as easily as I could with the riser seat and I gained back the stability I lost installing the riser. I'll post a picture when I get back home.

You can raise the seat without using store-bought pedestals. Just add a short block of wood between the seat and the frame, and use longer bolts. Each short piece of 2x6 adds 1.5 inches of height. You don't even need to drill through the wood if you position it right. You might be surprised how a few inches of seat height raises the comfort level.

What does the Pelican Bass Raider 10e retail for ? I just saw one on the Walmart website for $1,299.00 marked down from $1,700.00. Is that a mistake? I thought Dicks sold them for about $650.00.

 

2 minutes ago, jeffh129 said:

What does the Pelican Bass Raider 10e retail for ? I just saw one on the Walmart website for $1,299.00 marked down from $1,700.00. Is that a mistake? I thought Dicks sold them for about $650.00.

 

Dunno about DSG - but you can get them direct from Pelican for under a grand.

https://www.pelicansport.com/us_en/bass-raider-10e

Most places have them at $650

 

Finally took the plunge and picked up a Bass Raider 10E today. Sold a kayak last weekend cuz I just needed a little more room to move around. Have looked through here and picked up some awesome tips. Next steps are to put in some kind of lightweight floor mat and find a trolling motor & battery. No room to keep a trailer so I'll be horsing it in/out of the truck and hand launching by my lonesome; obviously keeping weight down will be a theme for me so I'll be somewhat of a "minimalist" and go with the basics. First decision is whether to mount the TM on the bow or stern. I see pros and cons for each. Either way, can't wait til I can get this beast on the water!!!

Recommend bow vs. stern. Pulling easier to navigate and ~15% more usable power than pushing.

On 2/17/2020 at 8:03 AM, Tuna said:

Recommend bow vs. stern. Pulling easier to navigate and ~15% more usable power than pushing.

Tuna, good to know, thank you!

Does anyone use millennium boat seats? If so do they mount to the swivel plate that comes with the boat or do you need new plates. Also what's the preferred anchor system you use?

Hello folks, wanted to ask some super basic guidance on hooking up the trolling motor using the plug on the bow. For weight distribution I want to put the battery in the back so I can stay close to the front. I'm not an electrical whiz so want to make sure I'm doing this right. Got the 55 lb thrust motor. Is the factory wiring adequate to handle it or does anyone recommend rewiring with a thicker gauge? Also, is a 3 prong plug easily spliced into the motor's wiring with some shrink wrap connectors? Other recommended tips for putting on a plug?

Hi Neil, invest in the minn kota trolling motor battery box,its got your needs covered as far as circuit protection goes.....it has circuit breakers built in...plus extras.....I would take an ohm meter and see which wires are the positive and negative in the front connector and get the proper individual connector to attach wiring to front connector from trolling motor.....the included wiring is adequate for your needs.....wish I was there to help you out......I worked at car dealerships for 40 plus years.....you only need 2 wires as the battery is the only ground for electricity (plastic boat) positive and negative.......I dont have my trolling motor in the front or battery up there either....my g/f complains it's in her way lol....I'm retired now so I can leave her azz at work and go fish......send me a PM if you have questions or feel unsure about hooking up the trolling motor!

4 hours ago, choppertime said:

Hi Neil, invest in the minn kota trolling motor battery box,its got your needs covered as far as circuit protection goes.....it has circuit breakers built in...plus extras.....I would take an ohm meter and see which wires are the positive and negative in the front connector and get the proper individual connector to attach wiring to front connector from trolling motor.....the included wiring is adequate for your needs.....wish I was there to help you out......I worked at car dealerships for 40 plus years.....you only need 2 wires as the battery is the only ground for electricity (plastic boat) positive and negative.......I dont have my trolling motor in the front or battery up there either....my g/f complains it's in her way lol....I'm retired now so I can leave her azz at work and go fish......send me a PM if you have questions or feel unsure about hooking up the trolling motor!

Choppertime, very authoritative, I think I'll go and grab a battery box. I guess I'm not smart enough to figure out how to PM you, but I'll keep looking. I wasn't exactly sure what you meant about the connectors. But do you think this should do the trick? https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-13751-Trolling-Motor-Straight/dp/B000N9MF92/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=trolling+motor+3+prong+plug&qid=1582653610&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-18

Does anyone know who makes a waterproof cover for a 10e...thats a custom fit? 

Thanks

24 minutes ago, choppertime said:

Does anyone know who makes a waterproof cover for a 10e...thats a custom fit? 

Thanks

BPS carries a cover, 10' X 48", $39.99. Maybe it would meet your needs.

I've had my boat (sun dolphin sportsman) for about 6 months now and have loved it! I've added a 2.5 hp outboard, a 30lb thrust foot controlled trolling motor, a fish finder, a carpeted wooden deck, and a few other things. One major issue I've been having is rod organization. Theres not enough room on the side cutouts of the boat for 4 to 5 rods, and the rod I want, somehow always ends up being the one on the bottom of the pile?  Has anyone come up with any creative rod organization ideas while on the water?

Also for anyone who is attempting to attach things to there boat, here are a couple tips that have helped me out.

1. Rivet nuts (threaded inserts that mushroom out like a rivet) have worked great for attaching things above the water line.

2. If you're going to glue anything to the boat, do some research on what adhesives to use before just gooping some epoxy on you boat just to have it come off the next day. Aparently very few things like to stick to polyetheline, but I have had good luck using 3M vhb mounting tape. The key is to "flame" the area where the tape will stick. -Basically take a small propane torch, and lightly pass it a few inches above the area where the tape will stick before attaching the tape. I have used this method to attach several pieces of pvc that I thermoformed and stuck on the bottom to provide wear resistance on several places that were getting scuffed when I would launch.

 

I'm not sure whether these methods have already been brought up in this forum, but I thought I'd share anyways.

On 3/8/2020 at 12:01 AM, Bclark215 said:

1. Rivet nuts (threaded inserts that mushroom out like a rivet) have worked great for attaching things above the water line.

Well nuts work in much the same way, yet are water proof.

 

https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/blog/2018/10/08/well-nuts-what-are-they-and-how-are-they-used/

On 2/24/2020 at 7:56 AM, choppertime said:

Does anyone use millennium boat seats? If so do they mount to the swivel plate that comes with the boat or do you need new plates. Also what's the preferred anchor system you use?

I have one in my Raider 10E. It's the bee's knees! Super comfortable with an easily adjustable back. It is deeper than most seats so you're not hanging off the edge. It bolt right up to the factory swivel base and seems to sit higher so there is no need to install some sort of riser. I can go from sitting to standing easily. I highly recommend the Millennium seats. I have the saltwater series so no worries about rusting.

On 2/24/2020 at 8:24 PM, Neil Stevenson said:

Hello folks, wanted to ask some super basic guidance on hooking up the trolling motor using the plug on the bow. For weight distribution I want to put the battery in the back so I can stay close to the front. I'm not an electrical whiz so want to make sure I'm doing this right. Got the 55 lb thrust motor. Is the factory wiring adequate to handle it or does anyone recommend rewiring with a thicker gauge? Also, is a 3 prong plug easily spliced into the motor's wiring with some shrink wrap connectors? Other recommended tips for putting on a plug?

Neil the factory wiring will work fine. Most of the time you will be bumping low power on and off. Traveling is the only time you'll need full power and, even then these little boats move very easily so the amp draw even on high is minimal. When I did mine I found the Pelican plug that fits the factory receiver was way over priced. I bought a Attwell trolling motor plug kit. Came with both ends for half the price. I also installed a bigfoot switch on the floor. My floor has a carpet and anti fatigue mat over 3/8 plywood so screwing it down was no biggie. I fish exclusively solo out of the raider. It might be rated for two but, thats not for guys my size. The bigfoot switch goes on the negative side of the wiring. I ran a heavy gauge wire up to it then back to the factory harness. this lets me bump the power and keeps me more hands on the rod. There is a learning curve to running these little boats. I've found that If I sit more towards the stern with an extension handle on the TM it keeps the stern lower in the water and I have better control. Once you fish it a few times you'll figure it out. Heck you've got to counter steer deep diving crank baits and big fish will pull you around. I've been thinking about getting a 55lb TM for the stern but my 36 works really well. Biggest problem You'll face with the TM on the front is Beaching the boat. That can be a little challenging. Enjoy 

I added some Blue LED lights to the front deck of my Pond Prowler, they are real handy as well as cool looking.  It should make night fishing during the summer that much easier.

 

 

On 3/5/2020 at 9:15 AM, volzfan59 said:

BPS carries a cover, 10' X 48", $39.99. Maybe it would meet your needs.

That cover is only mist proof, I found out the hard way.  If you get a decent rain, the water will soak right through.

Also, if the wind kicks up too hard, it will fly off.  I also found that out via experience.  If you are looking for something to keep dirt & critters out, it will do that as long as it isn't exposed to the elements.

 

I ended up having a custom cover made about 6 years ago from a company that makes them for Yachts and the dingees that they have on board.  It cost 1/2 as much as the boat did, but has done a great job of protecting it from the elements.