We had a huge thunderstorm the other day and despite have a good cover over the boat, it still got swamped. I got all the water out then noticed the hull has quit a bit of water in it. Is it a good idea to seal the edge that goes around the outside of the boat for the future? or does it need to breath? 

Lifting that thing all the way up on one end while the water drains out the front kind of sucks.

We had a huge thunderstorm the other day and despite have a good cover over the boat, it still got swamped. I got all the water out then noticed the hull has quit a bit of water in it. Is it a good idea to seal the edge that goes around the outside of the boat for the future? or does it need to breath?

Lifting that thing all the way up on one end while the water drains out the front kind of sucks.

I put drain plugs in the rear of my hull so I don't have to tip it on end anymore. They work perfect.

Here's a pic of the plugs for you $3.50 at Walmart and some marine sealant

Nibus2065 no the middle of the casting deck is cut out to fit my battery box i can fit my ancor and some small plano boxes under it but thats about it

Nibus2065 no the middle of the casting deck is cut out to fit my battery box i can fit my ancor and some small plano boxes under it but thats about it

It's a pretty sweet setup I have a 8ft so limited on space I came up with side tackle storage. How stable is it while up on the deck?

It's a pretty sweet setup I have a 8ft so limited on space I came up with side tackle storage. How stable is it while up on the deck?

Its not to bad never felt like i was going to go in the water at all when i first built the deck i had the battery in the back and didnt have the gas motor which was awsome but when i got my motor i had to move the battery to the front because if you put me a gas motor and a 31 series deep cyle in the back of an 8ft and it almost sinks while you are trying to start your motor you just have to even everything out then its super stable now

Here's a pic of the plugs for you $3.50 at Walmart and some marine sealant

Thanks, I'll go check them out and see if I think I can drill into this thing without destroying it

1435715525745.jpg all loaded up and ready to go to the lake let me know what you guys think of my little setup.

Man, you have a lot of stuff in a small space.If it works for you, great.

I have the 10E and wont even take another person with me. I take no more then 3 rods, a small tackle box, a net, 8lb anchor and a cooler bag for water. I do plan on a fishfinder next. I wish I had some kind of strap down so the rods can ride on the rails. I don't trust myself to not knock them overboard.

I have a Pelican 8e. Many of my modifications were described in earlier postings. Regarding rod hold-downs, I tried a few things, but now use the little bungee and catch loop from TH Marine. I bought 3 on eBay -- 2 for the boat and one mounted on top of my pickup tailgate for when I drive to the pond without the boat. Because they are about 12" long, you need to mount them at a diagonal on each rail of the 8e. They work great, since the reels can rest down in the molded side rails and the strap keeps them from bouncing out. Just drill tiny holes, squirt some sealer on the screw and tighten down.

 

The board mounted above the rails with a Velcro strap look scary to me, as a rod could more easily go over when you loosen the strap.

Thanks, I'll go check them out and see if I think I can drill into this thing without destroying it

Was real easy to drill through I was worried at first also. I thought the plastic was a lot thicker than it is.

Finished! Just have to set the boat on it.

Finished! Just have to set the boat on it.

Nice! I have to get a trailer next year. I'm not enjoying moving this thing around by myself.

I think I've almost read all the posts in the thread.  Great collection by the way.  How does the Bass Raider 10E handle with a 3.5 HP outboard?  Does the transom hold up?

 

Right now I'm using a 50lb thrust Minn Kota trolling motor on my Bass Raider.  I'm curious if a 3.5 HP outboard would decrease travel time when heading to fishing spots?

I think I've almost read all the posts in the thread. Great collection by the way. How does the Bass Raider 10E handle with a 3.5 HP outboard? Does the transom hold up?

Right now I'm using a 50lb thrust Minn Kota trolling motor on my Bass Raider. I'm curious if a 3.5 HP outboard would decrease travel time when heading to fishing spots?

Not sure if the 10e has a stronger transom but the 2.5 hp i have on my 8ft flexed my transom bad enough i built the outboard support i posted eralier in the thread it did add a little bit of speed to the boat i can run maybe 4 mph wide open loaded down with all my junk

I have only had mine for a couple of months now but my 8 year old son and I are enjoying the heck of out of it.  It's small enough to load up in the back of my truck and pull the camper while it's back there which is exactly what I was looking for.

Hey guys, when you are using an outboard do you haul the boat with it on or do you just throw the motor in the boat and attach it when you get to the lake? I've seen a lot of you say that the transom flexes under a decent amount of throttle so I am assuming it would flex during travel if I had it attached.

 

I've wanted one of these boats since I was 16. Looking forward to learning all the in's and out's to loading it and using it. My other boats have been huge pain in the necks.

Hey guys, when you are using an outboard do you haul the boat with it on or do you just throw the motor in the boat and attach it when you get to the lake? I've seen a lot of you say that the transom flexes under a decent amount of throttle so I am assuming it would flex during travel if I had it attached.

 

I've wanted one of these boats since I was 16. Looking forward to learning all the in's and out's to loading it and using it. My other boats have been huge pain in the necks.

 

I only have a trolling motor right now and even that I don't keep on the transom when the boat is traveling behind my truck.  I see it as unnecessary stress.  Can't say how much stress from it there is but even balanced on there I doubt it's actually good for it.  When I get an outboard I'll do the same.  I think the only way I would keep an outboard mounted would be if I transported the boat via trailer and had a support on the trailer for the outboard.

 

I'll sit back and see what those that actually have an outboard though do with theirs...

I don't haul mine with the trolling motor or my Yamaha 2.5 HP 4 stroke attached. I wait until my harbor freight trailer is backed close to the edge of the water and clamp them on.

Thanks, guys. I look forward to testing it out this weekend. When unloading from the bed of a truck is it best just to back down a boat ramp as far as possible and then slide her out? I'm wondering if I can use a simple winch/ratcheting system to load it back into the truck the same way.

I'll back down the boat ramp until I'm about the boat lengths away from the water.  I pull the boat out almost all the way and put the end down with the other end still resting on the tailgate.  I'll then take that end and swing it off and out of the truck.  Then I attach my trolling motor and put the battery in and then proceed to move the boat into the water.  For that I just walk each end into the water.  After unloading from the truck I'm at the waters edge so it's quick to get it floating.

 

I reverse the process to load it back into the truck.  It's quick and easy enough for me.  I like to keep things as simple as possible.

Thanks, guys. I look forward to testing it out this weekend. When unloading from the bed of a truck is it best just to back down a boat ramp as far as possible and then slide her out? I'm wondering if I can use a simple winch/ratcheting system to load it back into the truck the same way.

I have no trailer, manhandle in and out of the bed of my truck. Not a real problem either way unless you get to launch/recover from ramp/bank that elevates the normal tailgate height significantly. I leave the TM attached because I mount my transducer on the TM. Still, unlike what others have stated, IMO very little stress on transom with proper positioning and a bungee to prevent excessive vertical movement of the TM shaft. Verified the amount of movement/transom flex with a bed mounted camera. There was no aft flex, and the forward flex was less than experienced under full power when in the water.

hey all. just joined this forum because of this thread, tons of great info here!

 

i just picked up a used bass raider 10e for $100. it needs some lovin, but i'll get it back on the water soon. i'll try to post up before and after pics of the work i'm doing.

 

i bought this boat even though i have a 10ft flat bottom already, i've fished from them before and they're way more comfy compared to a row boat. i troll for salmon every weekend (using a much larger boat of course), but my 7 year old daughter doesn't really like that style of fishing. she gets bored with it pretty quickly. well she's been asking me to take her fishing lately so i wanted to get one of these, i think she'll like it much better than the old flat bottom. i know i will.

Been reading this thread for the last 4 days, so much great info.

I'm buying my BR 10e next week, so many mod ideas it's crazy.

I picked up my trolling motor this morning, got me the Minn Kota Endura C2 55. It was on sale 229.99 and I had a 10% off coupon, walked out for 224 bucks. Couldn't pass it up.

My immediate plans will be:

Replace seats.

Install carpeted wood floor.

Mount small outdoor umbrella base to the wood floor in center and carry an outdoor patio umbrella in the boat for those baking hot days.

If it works I will update here, if it doesn't then I'll pretend I never did it

To avoid drilling as many have done, is it not possible to use an adhesive like dura bond instead?

To avoid drilling as many have done, is it not possible to use an adhesive like dura bond instead?

 

I guess it depends how strong dura bond is and what it is you're asking it to hold.  I don't see much of a problem putting holes into it as long as it's on the upper-half of the hull. Prolonged exposure of water to that half would mean your seam is under water which means those little screw holes aren't your biggest intake of water at that point!

 

I've added a paddle clip to mine on the inside of the boat and I'll be adding a couple of rod holders to it as soon as I get the chance.  Use a sealant along with the screws into the holes and you should be fine.