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Trolling Motor Battery Location


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Hi,

Currently I have a 2007 175 tx pro team bass tracker.  It has a DC 24 and a Cranking 24 in the back.  I am going to be completely re-wiring it and was hoping to have electronics on the DC battery, motor on the cranking battery.  My question is has anyone ran either 1 or 2 trolling motor DC batteries in the middle compartment where the rod locker is/was?  Or what are your other suggestions.  I may get a bigger Trolling Motor in the future to replace the edge, but it would only be a 24v one.

 

thanks!

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58 minutes ago, WVU-SCPA said:

Haven't done it myself, but a guy I fish with has a 2016 175 and moved his DC batteries in the rod compartment.  Not sure what he exactly did, but its doable.  Freed up room in the back, but is primary reason was weight distribution. 

I have already taken the rods out of the center and installed a recessed TM tray myself.  I could fabricate and probably install the 3 rods which was there before by lowering the tubes by 2" with no problem.  

The center compartment was the one I was thinking too, but didn't know how the weight distribution was or how hard it would be on the batteries in rough water.  Would make it much easier to have a battery charger there for the DC batteries and one for the back batteries too.

 

ty,

 

kevin

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My concern would be if the rod locker can structurally support the weight of the battery.  I'm also in an aluminum boat.  There have been times when I've hit wakes where it seemed like it was going to bruised my kidneys.  The further forward you put the battery the more downward force it's going to experience when you hit a wake.  I'm not saying the boat or battery can't handle it but that would be my concern.  I've installed a battery under my console for my electronics and it has worked beautifully but it's a lighter lithium battery. 

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10 minutes ago, gimruis said:

You installed a battery under your console?

Yes.  I don’t currently have room in the back for a 4th battery.   I have a lot of electronics and needed another battery.  I mounted a battery box at my feet under the console.  It has worked extremely well.  It’s a 75ah Battleborn LifePO4 group 24 that weighs 27 lbs.  I plan to move it to the back when I replace my trolling motor batteries and can reconfigure everything.

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4 hours ago, Tennessee Boy said:

My concern would be if the rod locker can structurally support the weight of the battery.  I'm also in an aluminum boat.  There have been times when I've hit wakes where it seemed like it was going to bruised my kidneys.  The further forward you put the battery the more downward force it's going to experience when you hit a wake.  I'm not saying the boat or battery can't handle it but that would be my concern.  I've installed a battery under my console for my electronics and it has worked beautifully but it's a lighter lithium battery. 

Yeah, the rod locker compartment should be enough to hold a 24/27 pretty easy I would imagine and there is a descent amount of room in it.  That was a concern I had was how was it going to handle the rough waves at times, even though I'm on a small lake it may not be much different than sitting in the back.  Here is a pic of where it would be moved to.

 

Kevin

bt175tx.png

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I recomend a one inch thick piece of closed cell foam rubber under your batteries as I have done.  Stiff enough not to collapse yet gives a nice cushion under each battery.  I run two group 31 agm deep cycle batteries and have no issues.  My boat is a 16' Sylvan sea troller V bottom

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Any boat that planes the majority of the weight should be located over the planing surface ie; the stern of the boat behind the drivers seat.

Your battery area should be ventilated to circulate fresh air not a closed water tight compartment.

Tom

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It wasn't my intention but I picked up a little over 1 mph and made my boat right a BUNCH better by adding a group 27 lead acid battery to the back.   (Tracker Classic XL)

 

It actually picked up more than 1 mph.   My boat came from the dealer with a group 24 cranking battery and a single group 27 for the trolling motor.   (It also came with a 6 gallon fuel tank)  I switched to a 12 gallon fuel tank before I had finished the engine break in.   After breaking in the engine I recorded 38.9 MPH on GPS (Navionics app)   I don't run around wide open, so didn't air it out any more for a while.   After I added an additional graph, Active Target and a heavier, 24 volt trolling motor to the front, and switched to lighter lighter lithium batteries in the rear my best speed was 37.6 mph.   It was a good mph slower if the fuel tank wasn't full.   It also rode rough in choppy water.   Also, due to the design of the boat, as well as me fishing alone most of the time the boat was heavy on the port side.   A friend suggested it would help the ride if I added some weight to the rear of the boat, and balanced it side to side better.   I moved my two 50ah lithium trolling motor batteries to the port side.  (~28 pound from the starboard side to port) then added the group 27 lead acid dual purpose battery to the starboard rear.   The boat is balanced better and rides like a dream.   Without the added weight in the rear I couldn't trim up much without it blowing out.   It would basically plow the bow through chop.    With the added 51 pounds on the rear and better balance I can trim up and go over the chop instead of through it.    Much to my surprise I recorded gps speed of 40.1 mph.   I cruise at 30 mph, like always but it's a comfortable, dry ride now instead of bouncing around getting water in my face.   

 

If you move your batteries forward be ready to add some kind of weight back to the rear if it rides rough.  

 

 

Added: I already had large gauge dedicated wiring for my electronics.   Adding a separate cranking battery had no effect on my screens.   I had no problem with clarity on my graphs before.  I believe when people add a dedicated electronics battery and get better clarity they're doing so because they're replace faulty wiring the same time the add the dedicated battery.   

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Everyone should experiment with where they place the extra weight with accessories, especially batteries !! One never knows for sure just where that optimal spot might be.  On the boats that I have owned ( all V bottoms)  I have had my best sucess by centering the extra weight rather than having it in the stearn, but...your boat/ hull style might be different, so try expermenting with placement....

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5 hours ago, Woody B said:

It wasn't my intention but I picked up a little over 1 mph and made my boat right a BUNCH better by adding a group 27 lead acid battery to the back.   (Tracker Classic XL)

 

It actually picked up more than 1 mph.   My boat came from the dealer with a group 24 cranking battery and a single group 27 for the trolling motor.   (It also came with a 6 gallon fuel tank)  I switched to a 12 gallon fuel tank before I had finished the engine break in.   After breaking in the engine I recorded 38.9 MPH on GPS (Navionics app)   I don't run around wide open, so didn't air it out any more for a while.   After I added an additional graph, Active Target and a heavier, 24 volt trolling motor to the front, and switched to lighter lighter lithium batteries in the rear my best speed was 37.6 mph.   It was a good mph slower if the fuel tank wasn't full.   It also rode rough in choppy water.   Also, due to the design of the boat, as well as me fishing alone most of the time the boat was heavy on the port side.   A friend suggested it would help the ride if I added some weight to the rear of the boat, and balanced it side to side better.   I moved my two 50ah lithium trolling motor batteries to the port side.  (~28 pound from the starboard side to port) then added the group 27 lead acid dual purpose battery to the starboard rear.   The boat is balanced better and rides like a dream.   Without the added weight in the rear I couldn't trim up much without it blowing out.   It would basically plow the bow through chop.    With the added 51 pounds on the rear and better balance I can trim up and go over the chop instead of through it.    Much to my surprise I recorded gps speed of 40.1 mph.   I cruise at 30 mph, like always but it's a comfortable, dry ride now instead of bouncing around getting water in my face.   

 

If you move your batteries forward be ready to add some kind of weight back to the rear if it rides rough.  

 

 

Added: I already had large gauge dedicated wiring for my electronics.   Adding a separate cranking battery had no effect on my screens.   I had no problem with clarity on my graphs before.  I believe when people add a dedicated electronics battery and get better clarity they're doing so because they're replace faulty wiring the same time the add the dedicated battery.   

Currently I have 2*24 groups in the back left which I plan to either leave there or upgrade to 27 groups.  I'll be upgrading the trolling motor later on, but it probably will not be for another year or so.  I will be upgrading all the wiring in the boat too :)

 

Ty!

8 hours ago, WRB said:

Any boat that planes the majority of the weight should be located over the planing surface ie; the stern of the boat behind the drivers seat.

Your battery area should be ventilated to circulate fresh air not a closed water tight compartment.

Tom

Yeah, I agree the majority of the weight should be in the back and probably on the passenger side in my case.  My gas tank takes up the middle and right side of the stern.

1 hour ago, airshot said:

Everyone should experiment with where they place the extra weight with accessories, especially batteries !! One never knows for sure just where that optimal spot might be.  On the boats that I have owned ( all V bottoms)  I have had my best sucess by centering the extra weight rather than having it in the stearn, but...your boat/ hull style might be different, so try expermenting with placement....

Totally agree.  My main concern was if anything major would be wrong with putting the TM battery right in the middle of a boat :)  

 

Thanks for all the input everyone!!

I had to pick one for a solution, but for me everyone who replied gave me some input to help me make a decision and help me out!  Much appreciated.

 

Kevin

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What type group 27* marine deep cycle battery to power your TM do you plan the move foreword?

Keeping the group 24 Cranking battery where it is in the stern  near the engine is the correct decision and can be used for your house battery to power electronics. The cranking battery should have. 50 amp circuit breaker and if set properly by the deal has it. A mistake charging deep cycle marine batteries without being isolated via a battery switch can damage some sonar units.

The front TM battery must be a sealed AGM or Lithium types. Wet cell will cause fumes to corrode everything in the compartment.

Deep V hull is different then your Basstracker lower gunnel bass boat.

All I can do is caution you, their are reasons bass boat locate batteries in the stern

Peace,

Tom

* group 29 to 31 recommended.

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1 hour ago, WRB said:

What type group 27* marine deep cycle battery to power your TM do you plan the move foreword?

Keeping the group 24 Cranking battery where it is in the stern  near the engine is the correct decision and can be used for your house battery to power electronics. The cranking battery should have. 50 amp circuit breaker and if set properly by the deal has it. A mistake charging deep cycle marine batteries without being isolated via a battery switch can damage some sonar units.

The front TM battery must be a sealed AGM or Lithium types. Wet cell will cause fumes to corrode everything in the compartment.

Deep V hull is different then your Basstracker lower gunnel bass boat.

All I can do is caution you, their are reasons bass boat locate batteries in the stern

Peace,

Tom

* group 29 to 31 recommended.

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the input.  Here is what I was considering.  Now I've not went ahead and done this yet lol.

 

Cranking and House in the stern/passenger side, fused, battery switch then going to fused panel.  Also a battery charger for those in the back.

 

In the front I was looking at interstate deep cycle, but I do not see any AGN.  If I do end up putting one in the middle it will probably be a lithium-ion.  I just don't like the idea of a 50-60lb battery up there, but I could be wrong though.  With the lithium being half the weight of the flooded/agn I figured this would be the best option if I go that route.  It would also be isolated and have a battery charger with it and fused of course.

 

I have a local interstate dealer here in town and i've had really good luck, but all those have been for vehicles and not marine batteries.  If I ever decide to get a 24v TM, if it's not in the middle then I'm guessing I will have to have the electronics and cranking on the same battery and 2*27's in the stern as I'm pretty sure that will be stretching it as far as available space goes.

 

ty,

 

Kevin

Or perhaps LifePO4 ?

 

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You can always add another 12V Lithium the same size you plan to add in the front for a 24VDC TM. The issue is cost for 2 lithium marine batteries, charger and space to accommodate the equipment.

Interstate owns Optimum Blue top marine AGM batteries.

Weight is an issue and price can be an issue.

Tom

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1 minute ago, WRB said:

You can always add another 12V Lithium the same size you plan to add in the front for a 24VDC TM. The issue is cost for 2 lithium marine batteries, charger and space to accommodate the equipment.

Interstate owns Optimum Blue top marine AGM batteries.

Weight is an issue and price can be an issue.

Tom

LOL, yeah that is what i'm facing right now.  I don't want 100lbs or more up front with AGN if/when I get a 24v TM and getting 2 of the lithium's will be expensive, but half the weight.

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On 9/20/2023 at 9:14 PM, kshays said:

Yeah, the rod locker compartment should be enough to hold a 24/27 pretty easy I would imagine and there is a descent amount of room in it.  That was a concern I had was how was it going to handle the rough waves at times, even though I'm on a small lake it may not be much different than sitting in the back.  Here is a pic of where it would be moved to.

 

Kevin

bt175tx.png

Where your red box is....my Sylvan aluminum boat has two group 31 agm trolling batteries there.  Never been an issue, my compartment is vented thru grills on the back side. My batteries are 75 lbs each.  Been there since 1992 when the boat was built. An additional start and house battery each side at the stearn. Fuel tank in floor about where your two seats are located.  Mine balances really well and handles a two ft chop quite nicely.   Hope you get yours figered out....

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17 hours ago, airshot said:

Where your red box is....my Sylvan aluminum boat has two group 31 agm trolling batteries there.  Never been an issue, my compartment is vented thru grills on the back side. My batteries are 75 lbs each.  Been there since 1992 when the boat was built. An additional start and house battery each side at the stearn. Fuel tank in floor about where your two seats are located.  Mine balances really well and handles a two ft chop quite nicely.   Hope you get yours figered out....

Hi Airshot,

I thought I replied to you last night, but guess not.  Whether I go with ATM or Lithium I will make sure they are cushioned and strapped down really good, vented out the back also.  In a way I would like to just bit the bullet and get Lithium's, but I have heard in really cold weather that could be a problem.

 

Thanks for the advice!

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13 hours ago, airshot said:

Yes, they are not friendly when temps get down to 40 degrees !!  If you fish in the really cold, you might rethink.

A number of anglers here in the far north have made the switch to lithiums but they always get the battery heater option with it.  And they have heated garages for their rigs too in the early spring, late fall, and winter.  I have to imagine that storing a boat here outside or in a non-heated garage with the lithium batteries in it would be a disaster.

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On 9/22/2023 at 1:03 PM, kshays said:

it will probably be a lithium-ion

Never-ever put a Lithium-Ion in a boat - those are the ones that have all the fires

 

Go with a LiFePo4 - much safer and more stable.

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First, my boat isn't a Tracker 175 so this may be of little help to you. I have a 16'X50" tiller jon that I converted to a bass-jon. Has a 40 horsepower o/b. When laying out my design, I knew that I wanted the T/M battery up front for weight distribution. I enjoy shallow water river fishing. Any way, at my friend @MN Fisher suggestion, I looked into Mighty Max batteries. They have/ had a 100 a/h LiFePo for around the mid $400.00 range. I got one, weighs 30 lbs. Mounted it up front, dead center of the boat. It is great for my needs. The boat planes out perfectly, handles like a dream even with a full load. The gel starting battery and six gallon fuel tank are in the rear compartment.

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3 minutes ago, volzfan59 said:

I looked into Mighty Max batteries. They have/ had a 100 a/h LiFePo for around the mid $400.00 range.

Prices are dropping fast - their 100ah LiFePo4 battery is now down to $300

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Mighty Max seems to have a good reputation frim all I have read.  I bought a small Mughty Max agm sealed  "wheel chair" battery about 9-10 years back for my grandaughters power wheels atv.  The battery was 38 bucks shipped to my front door !  It has spent its entire life on a maintainer when not in use.  After the electric toy was outgrown, that battery was used on my trolling motor for pond use, it also powers my 8' boom sprayer for my property, it has never failed me.  To this day it works just like it did when it was new. 

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@airshot, Not to highjack the thread, but when I ordered my battery, they didn't charge tax or shipping. I don't know why or how, maybe the amount spent. I'll order from them again.

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