In the past few years the #1 complaint I hear from Fisherman & FisherLadies is on Line. It’s about braided lines, fluorocarbon lines, mono and co-polymers. 
 

Myself, I’ve been using Yozuri Hybrid for 25 years now. Pline CXX & CX lines. Along w Daiwa Samurai and Sunline Shooter. 
 

Has your mind been changed recently toward one type or another and if so why? With me, I can tie my knots in the dark I’ve been using it so long. 

I really didn't want to deal with my spinning gear much due to wind knots with typical light braid like PP SS V2. I remove the bail trip dogs from my spinners, so automatic bail actuation was never the issue. It was working light baits on slack line causing it. After @bulldog1935 recommended Varias Max Power PE and I tried it in#0.8 I've totally changed my mind. Not only is it ultra-thin for the lb/test(16.9), but it's also very strong. Casting distance is also spectacular using my Tatula LT3000/Tatula XT 7'M. After every third trip I pull out about 120', pinch it in between my thumb nail and forefinger, then walk it down to the end to untwist it. No wind knots in years. With 832 and PP SS V2 in 15lb test I'd often get wind knots before the end of one session of casting very light baits, and they felt like rope in comparison. I imagine that other Japanese X braids are as good or possibly better, but I'm fine with my choice of Varivas. Game changer, IMO.

 

Also, Tatsu lives up the hype, IMO. It's worth it, especially if it's broken down to useable lengths like 170' over backer.

49 minutes ago, F14A-B said:

Has your mind been changed recently toward one type or another and if so why? With me, I can tie my knots in the dark I’ve been using it so long. 

Nope ~

A-Jay

Not really, at least when it comes to broad types.  I keep trying new and other things, but my opinions are pretty well cemented.  Mono is my standard and go to (japanese sizes, limp mono).  Braid has uses where you want no stretch or memory.  Fluorocarbon might be better for bottom contact stuff, but you better use good stuff as cheap stuff sucks.  

 

You might tweak and find a better one for you (I really like 131, if only they made it hi-vis) but broad brush I know what I'm fishing.  

My mind hasn't changed, I still use monofilament 98% of the time.

 

I do use braid occasionally, I have 20lb braid on a casting reelright now, on a backer. It'll probably come back off (this is the second time I've put that line on) and go back onto a spool when I change to something else.

 

I haven't tried fluorocarbon yet, but I have a spool of Big Game to try, I'll try it on casting gear, for texas rigs and flukes before I make any judgements.

I the past 5 years I’ve gone from 90% mono 10% braid to 50% mono 50% braid.  I occasionally spool up some fluorocarbon to remind myself why I don’t use fluorocarbon.😊  

Nope 

The only thing I changed was going from 30#-80# 4 carrier Power Pro to Smackdown braid for the 21/2 presentations I use it for. 

Everything else is straight fluorocarbon from 12#-20# and has always been that way.  
 

I’ve also been using the same knots as well SDJ, palomar and snell for just as long 

 

 

 

 

 

Mike

Not really.

 

Sniper for most things. SX1 on spinning. FX2 for frogpunch. Red Label for leaders if I have it around.

 

30 lb J Braid is on my topwater reel and it sucks (super soft, loose weave, doesn't lay on the spool well), but it's sort of the devil I know. Not super excited about trying 832 or going back to Powerpro. So it's terrible and I hate it, but it's catching fish.

 

So I guess I'm open to change but probably after the season. 

Retired to Florida.  Will be spooling more often with braid because I fish in more cover here than I did in PA.  Prefer mono or co-polymer for open water.  Might like fluorocarbon for bottom contact, but 1) I seldom fish the bottom, and 2) don't want to spend the money for a quality fluorocarbon line.

22 minutes ago, new2BC4bass said:

Retired to Florida.  Will be spooling more often with braid because I fish in more cover here than I did in PA.  Prefer mono or co-polymer for open water.  Might like fluorocarbon for bottom contact, but 1) I seldom fish the bottom, and 2) don't want to spend the money for a quality fluorocarbon line.

 

I see the Florida guys heading for the braid with a few others tossed in.

 

I went full tilt braid decades ago and have not looked back. No leaders either. Straight braid these days. Clear lines are for backing only.

 

When you get out into Florida's jungle you may find that bottom fishing is rare due to the excessive amount of vegetation Florida has, and dead and decaying plants mucking up the bottom. Finding nice clean clear sandy bottom in lakes and ponds is rare.

 

Some of our creeks and rivers with current keep the bottoms clean and clear enough usually.

 

Most of the time I am fishing in cover. Clear open water or bottom fishing accounts for 10% or less much of the time. I like the confidence factor of believing my line is not going to break in heavy cover. And I guess I am not a fan of stretchy line either. So straight braid it is no matter what.

 

One of my long time fishing buddies loves braid as well, but also uses leaders. When he has lost a fish it has always been the "weak" link his leaders. I remember him flipping to a big ole bass in lily pads and he hooked into it and when he set the hook his leader snapped. His shoulders dropped. He sighed plus a few choice words. And then said "Yeah, I know you don't use leaders." and I was thinking (almost chuckling) but not gonna say it... yeah, and that right there is why. I told ya so.

 

I also gotta be religious about retying knots too. Anyone can lose a fish on those.

Fifteen years ago, I discovered the hottest limp + abrasion-resistant salt-finesse copolymer, Kamikaze, available only from Oz.  Sourcing this line fell apart in '20 postal crash.  

I used Kamikaze in 4-lb for salt finesse, and 6-lb on freshwater spinner.  

Otherwise, I fished 12-lb Abrazx from bulk spool across the board, and watched my friends fight with giant wind-balls of yellow power pro.  

I didn't consider braid until it caught up with my demands.  First braid I used was Sufix 832, in 2018, and I approved.  That same year, X-braid made by Izanas was introduced in Japan, sold as YGK WXP1 for $1/yd.  

The next year, the price started dropping w/ YGK X-braid Upgrade, and swapping 16-lb for 6-lb 832 in salt finesse was a no-brainer.  

Same year, I attacked BFS and discovered Izanas made X-braid for YGK, Varivas, and Duel (X-wire).  

The technology of the braid itself hasn't changed since then, but every label specifies their product from Izanas by fiber grade, weave and, especially, coating composition.  In the long-run, you find coating composition limits braid life.  

The toughest braid coatings I've found are FEP+silicone, used on YGK WXP1 and Varivas Si-X.  

When the original run of WXP1 was closing out cheap, I spooled up several reels.  

 

I like Varivas Super Trout Advance on freshwater finesse but, otherwise, Varias Seabass Si-X is go-to for me, and most Japan orders keep me stocked up.  

The limpest+low-memory fluorocarbon made is also the most expensive, Solaroam Xthread, and Toray customizes the fomulation for each line diameter.  

I flip flop back and forth a lot. I love braid and I love mono. 
 

I really like mono on top waters, jerk baits, spinnerbaits. I enjoy it for jigs and swim jigs too. Just feel like the hookset isn’t there though. 
 

braid for jigs and worms is what I always end up back at. It’s sensitive, and hook sets are rock solid. I don’t fish a leader just straight braid. Never had an issue getting bites but in Florida and now Iowa I’ve never fished pure clean water. 
 

I tried fluorocarbon twice this year. It casts great and is sensitive. I just don’t feel the price for seaguar invizx is worth it over a spool of suffix elite mono. I can get 3 spools of that for 1 invizx. 

4 hours ago, PhishLI said:

I really didn't want to deal with my spinning gear much due to wind knots with typical light braid like PP SS V2. I remove the bail trip dogs from my spinners, so automatic bail actuation was never the issue. It was working light baits on slack line causing it. After @bulldog1935 recommended Varias Max Power PE and I tried it in#0.8 I've totally changed my mind. Not only is it ultra-thin for the lb/test(16.9), but it's also very strong. Casting distance is also spectacular using my Tatula LT3000/Tatula XT 7'M. After every third trip I pull out about 120', pinch it in between my thumb nail and forefinger, then walk it down to the end to untwist it. No wind knots in years. With 832 and PP SS V2 in 15lb test I'd often get wind knots before the end of one session of casting very light baits, and they felt like rope in comparison. I imagine that other Japanese X braids are as good or possibly better, but I'm fine with my choice of Varivas. Game changer, IMO.

 

Also, Tatsu lives up the hype, IMO. It's worth it, especially if it's broken down to useable lengths like 170' over backer.

Very interesting. Appreciate your experience because I’m seriously about to spring on some Japanese braid for a spinning reel myself. Then I’ve got a Zil HD 1000 that I’m about to spool 30# on which gives me a solid 200 yards of line, will be used in the Gulf. Finally my Rays studio BFS wiffle spool arrived and that’s going to be another experiment. PE 0.6-1.0 not sure, but I’m going to spool up with nylon first and get familiar with its characteristics. @bulldog1935 any way to validate it to be an authentic Rays spool? This has a purple bearing and I’m not so sure

2 minutes ago, F14A-B said:

Then I’ve got a Zil HD 1000 that I’m about to spool 30# on which gives me a solid 200 yards of line, will be used in the Gulf.

Max Power PE 1.5 is rated at 28.6lbs and is also stupid thin. Just got a 200m spool for my Tat 80, Alphas SV, and whatever else I might try it on. Broke it down to 4 runs of 165' to use on top of backing.

2 hours ago, FloridaFishinFool said:

 

I see the Florida guys heading for the braid with a few others tossed in.

 

I went full tilt braid decades ago and have not looked back. No leaders either. Straight braid these days. Clear lines are for backing only.

 

When you get out into Florida's jungle you may find that bottom fishing is rare due to the excessive amount of vegetation Florida has, and dead and decaying plants mucking up the bottom. Finding nice clean clear sandy bottom in lakes and ponds is rare.

 

Some of our creeks and rivers with current keep the bottoms clean and clear enough usually.

 

Most of the time I am fishing in cover. Clear open water or bottom fishing accounts for 10% or less much of the time. I like the confidence factor of believing my line is not going to break in heavy cover. And I guess I am not a fan of stretchy line either. So straight braid it is no matter what.

 

One of my long time fishing buddies loves braid as well, but also uses leaders. When he has lost a fish it has always been the "weak" link his leaders. I remember him flipping to a big ole bass in lily pads and he hooked into it and when he set the hook his leader snapped. His shoulders dropped. He sighed plus a few choice words. And then said "Yeah, I know you don't use leaders." and I was thinking (almost chuckling) but not gonna say it... yeah, and that right there is why. I told ya so.

 

I also gotta be religious about retying knots too. Anyone can lose a fish on those.

I used mono in Florida and it was fine, my hero Doug Hannon also used it and he’s documented 100’s of 10# and over FSLMB. My 11.2 came on mono. 
 

But I get it, the vegetation can be brutal to stick a big fish and fight it. 
We didn’t have braid in the 80’s of course. If you like it then that’s perfect, but even on this very thread there are hints of dissatisfaction with braid and FC. Which was part of the reason I started this thread. 

6 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

Max Power PE 1.5 is rated at 28.6lbs and is also stupid thin. Just got a 200m spool for my Tat 80, Alphas SV, and whatever else I might try it on. Broke it down to 4 runs of 165' to use on top of backing.

What backing ?

7 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

Max Power PE 1.5 is rated at 28.6lbs and is also stupid thin. Just got a 200m spool for my Tat 80, Alphas SV, and whatever else I might try it on. Broke it down to 4 runs of 165' to use on top of backing.

How is your Tat 80 doing?

2 minutes ago, F14A-B said:

What backing ?

I have a huge roll of Okuma 50lb braid I've been using for years.

3 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

Fifteen years ago, I discovered the hottest limp + abrasion-resistant salt-finesse copolymer, Kamikaze, available only from Oz.  Sourcing this line fell apart in '20 postal crash.  

I used Kamikaze in 4-lb for salt finesse, and 6-lb on freshwater spinner.  

Otherwise, I fished 12-lb Abrazx from bulk spool across the board, and watched my friends fight with giant wind-balls of yellow power pro.  

I didn't consider braid until it caught up with my demands.  First braid I used was Sufix 832, in 2018, and I approved.  That same year, X-braid made by Izanas was introduced in Japan, sold as YGK WXP1 for $1/yd.  

The next year, the price started dropping w/ YGK X-braid Upgrade, and swapping 16-lb for 6-lb 832 in salt finesse was a no-brainer.  

Same year, I attacked BFS and discovered Izanas made X-braid for YGK, Varivas, and Duel (X-wire).  

The technology of the braid itself hasn't changed since then, but every label specifies their product from Izanas by fiber grade, weave and, especially, coating composition.  In the long-run, you find coating composition limits braid life.  

The toughest braid coatings I've found are FEP+silicone, used on YGK WXP1 and Varivas Si-X.  

When the original run of WXP1 was closing out cheap, I spooled up several reels.  

 

I like Varivas Super Trout Advance on freshwater finesse but, otherwise, Varias Seabass Si-X is go-to for me, and most Japan orders keep me stocked up.  

The limpest+low-memory fluorocarbon made is also the most expensive, Solaroam Xthread, and Toray customizes the fomulation for each line diameter.  

Thanks again @bulldog1935 always appreciate your deep knowledge base on these topics. 

22 minutes ago, F14A-B said:

How is your Tat 80 doing?

Love it. Smooth as can be too. Hyperdrive gearing is legit. Was running 8lb Sufix Advance copoly on it, but we're totally choked out here now. Like the everglades.

2 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

Love it. Smooth as can be too. Hyperdrive gearing is legit. Was running 8lb Sufix Advance copoly on it, but we're totally choked out here now. Like the everglades.

Yup the Hyperdrive is legit. I’ve bought 3 Zillion HD 1000 this year I’ve been thrilled with the performance over my Shimano’s. I’ve had my eye on that Tat 80 also. 

I bought a Ryoga over winter and swapped the aluminum drive gears for Hyperdrive gears from Basara.  (It was used in salt, and I replaced all the MagSeal bearings, also.)  The brass gears definitely had a run-in, and the reel was a joy on my April salt-flats 3-day trip.   

It also got Yahoo-buy KTF Kahen spool, which both invented SV for Daiwa, and is copied by Ray's Studio in your sharp-purple honeycomb-SV braid spool. 

@F14A-B - do not fish PE#0.6 on Zillion unless it's Silver Wolf w/ increased LW-pitch.  Stick to PE#1 or PE#1.2 on that pretty spool.  

You'd find #0.6 too spider-webby to mess with, anyway, or buy Ott lamp and magnifier.  

31 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

I bought a Ryoga over winter and swapped the aluminum drive gears for Hyperdrive gears from Basara.  The brass gears definitely had a run-in, and the reel was a joy on my April salt-flats 3-day trip.   

It also got Yahoo-buy KTF Kahen spool, which both invented SV for Daiwa, and is copied by Ray's Studio in your sharp-purple honeycomb-SV braid spool. 

@F14A-B - do not fish PE#0.6 on Zillion unless it's Silver Wolf w/ increased LW-pitch.  Stick to PE#1 or PE#1.2 on that pretty spool.  

You'd find #0.6 too spider-webby to mess with, anyway, or buy Ott lamp and magnifier.  

10-4 on PE#1.2.. 

Also never forget when swapping spools.  

First thing, open Zero set wide CCW.  

This prevents damaging palm plate latch or buckling spool spindle.  

Last thing - re-set Zero to incipient side play (in freespool).  

 

6 hours ago, FloridaFishinFool said:

When you get out into Florida's jungle you may find that bottom fishing is rare due to the excessive amount of vegetation Florida has, and dead and decaying plants mucking up the bottom. Finding nice clean clear sandy bottom in lakes and ponds is rare.

 

Most of the time I am fishing in cover. Clear open water or bottom fishing accounts for 10% or less much of the time. I like the confidence factor of believing my line is not going to break in heavy cover. And I guess I am not a fan of stretchy line either. So straight braid it is no matter what.

This is why I am going to braid for most of my fishing since moving to Florida.  Slime is why I seldom fish the bottom....even when I lived in PA.  Hate it!

Izorline Platinum mono/copolymer on crankbait, spinnerbait, jerkbait and topwater rigs.

 

Yozuri Topknot fluoro for bottom contact stuff (best abrasion/brush resistance I have found in fc)

 

Haven’t settled on a particular braid for the spinning rigs, but working on it.

 

 

22 hours ago, PhishLI said:

I really didn't want to deal with my spinning gear much due to wind knots with typical light braid like PP SS V2. I remove the bail trip dogs from my spinners, so automatic bail actuation was never the issue. It was working light baits on slack line causing it. After @bulldog1935 recommended Varias Max Power PE and I tried it in#0.8 I've totally changed my mind. Not only is it ultra-thin for the lb/test(16.9), but it's also very strong. Casting distance is also spectacular using my Tatula LT3000/Tatula XT 7'M. After every third trip I pull out about 120', pinch it in between my thumb nail and forefinger, then walk it down to the end to untwist it. No wind knots in years. With 832 and PP SS V2 in 15lb test I'd often get wind knots before the end of one session of casting very light baits, and they felt like rope in comparison. I imagine that other Japanese X braids are as good or possibly better, but I'm fine with my choice of Varivas. Game changer, IMO.

 

Also, Tatsu lives up the hype, IMO. It's worth it, especially if it's broken down to useable lengths like 170' over backer.

 

Maybe this question is more directed to @bulldog1935: What is the difference between Varivas Max Power PE and Avani Casting PE Max Power X8? It seems like the main difference is the latter has more abrasion resistance, which is what I need for local rocky situations.