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Here is the scoop. I have been using Shimano Cumaras since january. Great rods...but not built for snakehead fishing. The snakeheadsd fight all the way to the cooler and then some. I have broken several rods at thew boat. I know a net would solve my problem but I really don't have the room for one. I need a BC rod that is sensative, light, strong and durable. Any recomendations? I was thinking about looking at some muskie rods? I used a buddy's Kistlers and it was pretty heavy gauge but I'am open to ideas.

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I prefer a medium, XF around the 6'10" - 7'. Why the need for such a heavy rod? Price wise around $200? Personally for durability I think St. Croix makes a great rod.

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If the Cumara is doing the job but snapping at the boat then most any bass rod will work, no need to go muskie heavy. I'd say drop down a notch or two and get a Compre or Clarus in the new line that Shimano just released. They are very good rods, sensitive, but not as brittle as the Cumara is. They're a lot cheaper too.

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If you want rods that don't break, forget Kistler. Almost all of mine broke, and I got rid of the ones that didn't before the could. St Croix's are bullet proof, light, sensitive, and when they do break, they stand behind them. But really, if your breaking a ton of rods, I would look at how your using the rods, maybe a change in power/action, not brands is needed.

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Shane,

I have broken two Cumara's while fishing for hawg bass, both I broke while landing the fish in close. High-sticking will break cumaras pretty easily. They are great rods for the lightness and sensitivity, but not really Ugly stick tough. With that said I really like the Dobyn's Champion series, they are about the same price point and have yet to have an issue. Since snakeheads like moving baits you can get away with the Savvy series at a lower price point than the Champions. Also, take a look at the "local" rod of choice Star rods, too! They are a little heavier, but bullet proof. I like the Plasma series.

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Dobyns Savvy or Champion rods for sure. I like both more than my Cumara. The Champion is more sensitive and waaaay more balanced. A balanced $170 rod will get my vote over a tip-heavy $300 rod ANY day.

The savvy does not come close to the cumaras. Your dobyns bias is sickening. I have a 6.8 oz reel on the 7'2 and when I balance the rod on my finger the edge of my.finger is still making contact with the tiny foregrip. I have a 6.8 oz reel on the 6'8 cumara and when balanced its on the foregrip. Seems good to me. The champion is a push when compared to the cumara and the savvy does not come close at all.

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The savvy does not come close to the cumaras. Your dobyns bias is sickening. I have a 6.8 oz reel on the 7'2 and when I balance the rod on my finger the edge of my.finger is still making contact with the tiny foregrip. I have a 6.8 oz reel on the 6'8 cumara and when balanced its on the foregrip. Seems good to me. The champion is a push when compared to the cumara and the savvy does not come close at all.

Notice I didn't compare the Savvy to the Cumara, I compared it to "a $300 rod". Last time I checked, Cumaras were $199.99 - $219.99. The Cumara is in a totally different class than the Savvy sensitivity-wise. It's not even close. My Cumara CUC-72MH is an extremely sensitive rod. Extremely. That was my first high-end rod, and I was blown away.

I have a 50e on my Cumara, and it is a well-balanced combo. It feels great to fish, and is one of my favorite combos. When I put the 50e on a Savvy 734, it is more balanced.

Maybe it was a "push" saying that the Champions are more sensitive than Cumaras, as there is no real way to prove that, but my 735c feels just as sensitive as my Cumara, which is impressive considering it is a straight broomstick.

I don't believe I have a Dobyns "bias". I only have two! The OP asked our opinions on a rod that won't be as liabel to break when fighting a snakehead, and I simply gave my opinion. The Cumaras feel more brittle in hand than a Champion, in my opinion of course.

Either way, it was just a suggestion. Shane, I would get a Savvy 734 for your snakehead hunts. Light, balanced, powerful, sensitive, and down-right fun to fish.

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If the Cumara is doing the job but snapping at the boat then most any bass rod will work, no need to go muskie heavy. I'd say drop down a notch or two and get a Compre or Clarus in the new line that Shimano just released. They are very good rods, sensitive, but not as brittle as the Cumara is. They're a lot cheaper too.

I'm sorry, but I can't let that one slide. Saying any rod isn't as "brittle" as another is asinine. Graphite being brittle is a total and complete misnomer, continuing to spread from posts like the one above. As graphite increases in quality, it increases in stiffness. Think I'm wrong? Call Gary Loomis. The by-product of rods that get stiffer is that they have thinner blank walls, they don't get any more or less brittle, in fact they gain in axial strength as well as compression and strain rate. The increase in strain rate is so sufficient, in fact, that two different strains of graphite cannot be compared on the same scale. They just don't compare to one another. In the same note, Gary will tell you about a customer that he once had that broke a rod and wanted it replaced. Gary took the guy out, tried in five different ways to get a rod to break in the same fashion as the customers rod. What ended up doing it is that he had to kneel on it on the ground, scar the blank and start the splintering process by using the concrete. The guy conceded that it was his own actions, not the fault of the rod. Calling the Cumara brittle is laughable at best. It's likely one of the lightest, most superior rods in the sub-$250 range there is. Comparing the Clarus and the Compre isn't remotely apples to apples, hence the dramatic price difference. Also, the two lower rods don't have anywhere near the blank strength based simply on the graphite content. Not even the new Crucial, which is an IM10 blank with different resins than the Cumara, is close to the Cumara in terms of strength and sensitivity.

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I don't think there is much need for a super sensitive rod, these fish give a pretty decent bump. A rod with good backbone is what's needed, plenty of good ones out there. I use only spinning gear, the fish I catch are bigger and stronger than most snakeheads, I routinely hoist them up from a jettie, and sea walls, some of the Florida guys know how high the jetties are at Boynton, never broke a rod. If I'm not mistaken you are catching them from a boat, you are already close to the water. I use med 8/17 or mh 10/20 rods, I'd be happy to tell you what I use, send me a pm if interested, I use one of the aforementioned rods, it will fit the bill for sure, but I don't want to be in a debate over brands.

I'd get a 24" gaff, your going to kill them anyway.

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Fun replies.

So now I will really mess up your brains!!!!

Try an Ugly Stik.

You can't break them and you can use them to catch the big ones in Florida.

Ugly Stiks are not cheap anymore. And you will not find one that has 200% graphite in it for sensitivity.

BUT...you will have a strong rod to catch those snakeheads and big catfish and as SirSnookalot says, you don't need a rod with a lot of sensitivity. You will know when they hit your bait.

Just another suggestion to keep the flow of the topic going!!!! :D:D:D

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Point is moving bait rods don't need to be as sensitive. High sticking pretty much any rod is a no-no. Secondly, Shane asked for suggestions on rods not a full on debate on Dobyn Savvy vs Cumara.

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Shane, check out http://www.leveragelandingnet.com/

I first started using them in the kayak, and now in the bass boat. One handed operation.

As far as rods go, St. Croix Avids and LTBs are a good bet. I've landed MANY northern pike, brown trout, steelhead, and salmon up to 30 lbs. with no breakage issues. Leave them on the deck, well that's another story, LOL.

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Sir Snook is right, IMO. Shane, go to Sorts Authority or Dicks and look at the Redbone rods by Hurricane. They are under 100 bucks and will fit your needs. Honestly, I don't know how Hurricane can get away selling them as cheap as they do- They are decent rods.

Check out the Loomis line of the new GL2 series. Loomis supposedly upgraded the components and from what I hear they are decent rods and not priced too high. I was looking at them at BassPro the other day and they actually felt pretty good. They are lighter than the Redbone rod but a tad more expensive and I'm sure better made, even if it is a GL series. I sure the heck wouldn't be using my NRX or GLX on junk fish but I would give serious consideration to the new GL series.

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Catfishing-Acc.-Fish-Grips-Boga-Grips.jpg

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Sir Snook is right, IMO. Shane, go to Sorts Authority or Dicks and look at the Redbone rods by Hurricane. They are under 100 bucks and will fit your needs. Honestly, I don't know how Hurricane can get away selling them as cheap as they do- They are decent rods.

I did not want to avoid naming exact rods but as long as my bud Baasn' did, I will too. in a prior thread Star rods were mentioned, I'm using a star steller lite 7 10/20, rated for 2 oz, for piers and jetties, targeting bigger jacks, snook and tarpon, excellent rod but personally I think it's too much rod for snakeheads, especially from a boat. Redbone is a good choice I have 6 of them, I don't use mine for freshwater, I'm using a calico jack which is made by the same company that makes redbone, only $55. I use a 7' med 8/17 spinning, I love this rod, but I notice they have recently come out with 10/20 mh, that's what i would buy.

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Try the new Pinnacles. I know nobody believes it, but they are as good as some of my higher end rods. Just locate one, pick it up and the rest is easy. Jim

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Here is the scoop. I have been using Shimano Cumaras since january. Great rods...but not built for snakehead fishing. The snakeheadsd fight all the way to the cooler and then some. I have broken several rods at thew boat. I know a net would solve my problem but I really don't have the room for one. I need a BC rod that is sensative, light, strong and durable. Any recomendations? I was thinking about looking at some muskie rods? I used a buddy's Kistlers and it was pretty heavy gauge but I'am open to ideas.

Shane, in my humble opinion the Cumara is overkill for snakeheads. As you well know, their bite is not subtle and I don't think we need that kind of sensitivity for this fishing. I broke a Dobyns rod on a snakehead also....a 735C that I got back about a week ago. These higher modulus/thin walled rods are going to have issues with a thrashing snakehead on a short line.

I've been doing more snakehead fishing in my golf course ponds, since our conversations at Lox and at the snakehead round up. As I mentioned to you, I think I've killed a couple world record (Bullseye) snakeheads (one 37" and one 38") that I've caught from these ponds. Lately, I've been going out there a couple nights a week trying to get another one of those monsters. I got a 34" Friday night, but the world record still eludes me... ;)

Anyway, my current snakehead rod is a 7'6" MH BPS Extreme Rod with a Curado 200E7. I've been swinging thrashing snakeheads with no problems with this setup. They sell regularly for $99 at BPS and you can often get them cheaper. I would also look at the Veritas rods. Super light and strong...good for a long day of casting frogs. That rod is a little more fragile, but if you do have any issues you can return it right to the Davie BPS store and replace it instantly. Shimano has a good return policy, but I would rather replace a rod instantly in the store rather than have a 2-3 week down time waiting for a replacement in the mail.

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That rod is a little more fragile, but if you do have any issues you can return it right to the Davie BPS store and replace it instantly. Shimano has a good return policy, but I would rather replace a rod instantly in the store rather than have a 2-3 week down time waiting for a replacement in the mail.

For the record, Bass Pro Shops has an across the counter policy with Shimano, including the Cumara.

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Mh/h Berkley lightning rod..cost effective..you can buy 3 to 4 for 100 bucks lol

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I'm sorry, but I can't let that one slide. Saying any rod isn't as "brittle" as another is asinine. Graphite being brittle is a total and complete misnomer, continuing to spread from posts like the one above. As graphite increases in quality, it increases in stiffness. Think I'm wrong? Call Gary Loomis. The by-product of rods that get stiffer is that they have thinner blank walls, they don't get any more or less brittle, in fact they gain in axial strength as well as compression and strain rate. The increase in strain rate is so sufficient, in fact, that two different strains of graphite cannot be compared on the same scale. They just don't compare to one another. In the same note, Gary will tell you about a customer that he once had that broke a rod and wanted it replaced. Gary took the guy out, tried in five different ways to get a rod to break in the same fashion as the customers rod. What ended up doing it is that he had to kneel on it on the ground, scar the blank and start the splintering process by using the concrete. The guy conceded that it was his own actions, not the fault of the rod. Calling the Cumara brittle is laughable at best. It's likely one of the lightest, most superior rods in the sub-$250 range there is. Comparing the Clarus and the Compre isn't remotely apples to apples, hence the dramatic price difference. Also, the two lower rods don't have anywhere near the blank strength based simply on the graphite content. Not even the new Crucial, which is an IM10 blank with different resins than the Cumara, is close to the Cumara in terms of strength and sensitivity.

Dude, there is a problem with the Cumara line somewhere, whether they are brittle or not. I wasn't meaning that they are brittle due to higher graphite when they shouldn't be. I mean I've read nearly nothing but that they snap left and right. My brother in law has broken several whereas the Compre rods he has he's hardly had any problem with at all, and he has about 10 of those but only 2 Cumaras, that each have broken repeatedly. It's all over other forums too that they snap easily. What else would you think other than that they are brittle, and again, it has nothing to do with me saying higher graphite made them that way. It has more to do with experience in the Compre line personally, as well as witnessing it from near family members also, they just last longer, period. Cumaras are junk.

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Dude, there is a problem with the Cumara line somewhere, whether they are brittle or not. I wasn't meaning that they are brittle due to higher graphite when they shouldn't be. I mean I've read nearly nothing but that they snap left and right. My brother in law has broken several whereas the Compre rods he has he's hardly had any problem with at all, and he has about 10 of those but only 2 Cumaras, that each have broken repeatedly. It's all over other forums too that they snap easily. What else would you think other than that they are brittle, and again, it has nothing to do with me saying higher graphite made them that way. It has more to do with experience in the Compre line personally, as well as witnessing it from near family members also, they just last longer, period. Cumaras are junk.

That's laughable at best. I have yet to break one in all of my time fishing, and I fish a lot, averaging in excess of 200 days a year. I've fished Cumara rods since their release and have had zero issue. I fish several of them in choice over my NRX. If you're breaking Cumaras under normal fishing circumstances, it's pilot error, guaranteed. When YOU PERSONALLY have owned and fished them, you're free to offer your opinion, but it seems to me you don't own a single Cumara so are going by hearsay...

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I have 7 cumara's and they are NASTY rods I have caught some big ole' Catfish as well as gar, and multiple 5+ # bass on them. They are still relatively new to me (8 months old), but they have given me no issues WHAT SO EVER. I am a firm believer in the Cumara line and there durability. Oh yeah on a side note if you break a Cumara send it back Shimano!!! They back their rods with the best warranty in the Business. B)

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