riverfisher

Sure is, I just bought two yesterday at $32.99 ea. I'm thinkin about buying a couple more for giggles.

Neither style works in rivers!! Please bag them up and send them directly to my attention for proper disposal!! ;D

I ordered 2 of these yesterday. If the price is legit its a heck of a deal on a ram mount. http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=208917605&listingid=71302340

Derek how did you get thatas your ringtone?

Here is my third child she is a 2002 Triton Tr-186 with a Merc 150 XR6.

I was gonna say that!! One more for ya a Bill Dunce I mean Dance Excalibur Spit'n Image.

I wax my boat 3or so times a season with Collinite #885 Heavy Duty Paste Fleetwax.After every outing I will use the BTS couldn't ask for a better product!! My Triton is a 2002 and it looks brand new.

Whatever you do dont bait your traps with Nolan's Cheddar Cheese!! Check out the link it a good'en!! ;D

Tube and series 5&6 strike king sexy shad

The first year I bought my first bass boat its the end of the season in November. I was fishing an open tournament on Champlain. Half the day was over my partner and I had 5 out of our 8 fish limit and were looking good for the day so far. Went to hit a spot that we pre fished a couple days prior and started fishing the bank going with the wind. Next thing I know I hear someone motoring towards us and he drop's his trollin motor a cast away ahead of us. Same color flagging's on his trollin motor so I know he's fishin the open. Needless to say I'm PO'd rather then start chucking baits at his boat and start an argument I'm gonna motor up and leap frog'em. I strap my rods down start up the motor and hammered down. Next thing I know Im getting sprayed by water and getting soaked, OOPS the trollin motor is still down!! Bent the shaft pinion nut gears are all chewed up ended my day and my season right there. I was so bent I wanted to puke and poop myself. Moral of the story is learn from my stupidity and always double and triple check that you have pulled up your trollin motor before you take off!! A very expencive mistake! hahaha

Big O!!

I wanna say that hull is rated for a 150 or is it 135!! With a 90 it's way under powered.

Great find!!

4.65 SMB

I'm feelin you pain Nitro!! Saratoga here, to darn windy to even go ice fishing it's miserable.

I have to thank my Mom for getting me started!! We spent many a day on the Muddy Mohawk River drowning worms when I was a kid.

Here's my choice!!

Flippen Jigs work!!

Like this!

1. Storm Chug Bug 2. Rapala Jointed Shad Rap Craw (JSR7) 3. 1/4 oz Jig head and curly tails 4. Yum Dinger 5. Rapala XRap

Francesco, Benvenuti a basso Recource! Troverete assegnare delle informazioni qui hanno buon divertimento!

This thing is movin alog quick!! Fishn it will be back to you in no time.

OOOOOOOOOOh I like it!!

SWEET!

I do it myself every fall before the big freeze! Here is my yearly check list. 1. Fill your gas tank(s) and add gas stabilizer. (Follow the instructions on the stabilizer bottle as far as quantity. If in doubt, more is better.) **Most manufacturers will advise to store the tanks full to ensure that there's no condensation. Some of the smaller motors can have their fuel lines disconnected and run dry; this doesn't eliminate all gas from the motor and can lead to gummed up carbs, etc., come Spring. Having stabilized gas throughout the motor ensures that gaskets don't dry out and there's no chance of the gas turning to varnish. 2. Run the motor for 10-15 minutes to ensure that stabilized gas is in all of the lines, carbs, etc. (I take mine for a run after stabilizing the gas; I want to make sure that I've used up all of the un-stabilized gas that was in the fuel line, etc., and that only stabilized gas is in the system.) 3. Before shutting the motor off, you will want to fog the engine by spraying a fogging oil (storage seal) into all of the carbs (or the EFI system). **Check your owner's manual for specific instructions on how to fog your particular engine. (Some of the newer engines are not to be fogged.) Follow the instructions on the can; you will want to have the motor smoking big time, this ensures that you have the engine properly fogged. **Fogging oil puts a coating of oil on all of the cylinder walls and throughout the engine; it prevents rust from occuring during the winter storage months. 4. Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into each of the plug holes. (About a 3-4 second spray in each.) Replace the spark plugs and disconnect your kill switch. Turn the motor over 3-4 times to distribute the oil into the cylinders. **Not everyone does this step, but I figure that it's extra insurance that the entire engine is well fogged. After the first run in the Spring you might want to consider putting in new spark plugs, don't put in new ones in the Fall, they will just get messed up with the fogging oil. 5. Remove the prop and check for fishing line behind it. Grease the shaft and replace the prop. **If you have any nicks or dings on the prop you might want to have it repaired during the winter when the prop guys aren't too busy, rather than waiting until Spring. 6. Change the lower unit lube, (or at least check to ensure that there is no water present in the oil to ensure that it can't freeze during the winter. If there's water in the oil, it will be at the bottom and will come out first, or the lube will be a milky color which indicates water present. 7. Grease all fittings and lubricate all points shown in your owner's manual. 8. Fill the oil tank(s) to the top to prevent condensation during the winter. 9. Remove all batteries and store them inside. Charge them about every 6 weeks or so to keep them topped up. **You might want take the wires from each battery and put a cable tie (or piece of wire) through them to keep them in sets so that you know which ones go where come Spring. Label them as well, if need be. 10. Check to ensure that you don't have any water in your livewells, bilge pumps, etc. If in doubt you might want to add some RV antifreeze to them. 11. To make sure that the water in your water pressure line doesn't freeze during the winter and damage your gauge, you might want to disconnect the line and drain the water out. 12. Check your trailer tires to ensure that they are at the maximum tire pressure (probably 50#). Depending on where you store your trailer you might want to consider putting the trailer on blocks to keep it from sitting on the tires all winter. 13. Check the trailer hubs to see if they need grease added. 14. You might want to prop all of your compartments open slightly with pieces of styrofoam (or something similar), to ensure that air can circulate everywhere to prevent any condensation. 15. Remove basically everything from the boat. 16. Make sure that you store your motor in the down position to ensure that all water has drained out. 17. Wash the boat,and put a coat of wax on it (and the motor), if it needs it