J Francho
Super User
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Everything posted by J Francho
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Great, I think I've been spelling toules wrong my whole life.
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Haven't found anywhere that's too thick. I was tossing 1.5 oz. Jika Punch Rigs 2-4' into the standing brass and tules a couple weekends ago. Epic, hand to hand combat fishing. Love pulling bass out the jungle on a short leash.
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Close. Same size, but the Hydro-Flow version. All a water proof case does is trap liquid inside.
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I thought this was the greatest thing since sliced bread?
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3/8 for general Texas Rig, 1 to 1.5 oz. for punching. I'll add that I rarely punch with a traditional punch rig. Been using a home made jika punch rig. Penetrates EU milfoil and drags the bait straight down through the weeds, instead of draping the line over them, for better contact with the bait and better hooksets. I also get away with 1/2 the weight that I would need with a punch rig.
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I see zero reason to switch to tungsten for drop shot weights. I like an assortment of steel, lead, and tungsten for worm weights. Sometimes the lighter materials match up better size wise with bigger baits. Like a 10" Power worm with a 1/8 oz. steel weight.
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Pictures #5 and #7. http://fish.shimano.com/content/sac-fish/en/home/customer-service/reel-maintenance-instructions/_jcr_content/bodycontent/download/downloadFile/file.res/Maintenance Tips- Baitcasting Reels.pdf
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A uni to uni works fine in this situation.
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I fish some pretty heavy tube jigs when I actually fish tubes. Usually at least 1/2 oz., and more likely 3/4 oz. I use medium/fast casting gear, a high speed reel, and 10-12# Invisx or Tatsu. Keep in mind, I'm fishing Great Lakes, and I'm fishing pretty deep. Over 20 FOW, usually.
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You'd have two deep cycle batteries and one cranking battery. You'd probably want to upgrade to a three bank charger as well.
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I don't think I have ever in my life stocked that many styles and sizes of hooks. I don't combine my hooks and jigs in the same box, either. Mainly because I have three deep Hydro-Flow boxes full of them. Speaking of, if you want to avoid rust, get the Hydro-Flow. The key to avoiding rust is air flow. All a water proof case does is trap moisture in.
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The last time I was out and there were fish crashing the surface, they weren't bass, but walleye chasing bait fish. Bass were holed up deep in the weeds.
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Stock hooks are fine on all of those baits.
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It's happened a few time to me. More often it's a northern pike that bit me off, and shakes the bait free.
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It's not really anything unique to fishing gear. It's like that over just about every product category. Always someone looking for naive buyers to overpay.
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KVD Line & Lure. Use it after every trip. Hemocuts. Simply the best tool I've found for cutting lines and removing hooks. Side Imaging. Can't live without it now.
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I'd probably start near the dam, and work the west side up to the bridge. I'd be looking real hard by and bridge supports. From there, it's really just a matter finding "fishy" locations. You just need some time on the water. I graph might be useful, in the deeper water by the dam.
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That's pretty cool!
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Beautiful! Congrats!
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For those baits, I prefer a shorter, medium power X-fast taper. I want precise control over the bait, and a fast recovery from twitches, pops, and sweeps. I also want my rod as close to 90° to the line out, and a 7' rod is no bueno for that. I use an Avid 6'2" MXF (AVC62MXF) for this.
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They're just capacity specs so you know how much line you're going to use. The rod ratings on the other hand are a little more precise, and relate to mono strength. I wouldn't stray too far off those for mono/copoly/fluoro. For braid, you're usually matching the line diameter of typical mono. 50# braid is usually around the diameter of 12# single filament lines. You will set your drag to somewhere around 1/3 the top rating of the rod to avoid risking breaking a rod, since with braid, the rod becomes the weakest link. When using single filament, the line is the weakest link, so you'll set your drag to about 1/3 the breaking strength of the line. In a general sense, I do not go below 10# single filament, or 50# braid on a baitcaster. For typical 2500 size spinning reels those numbers are 8#/20#.
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On shore, I first fish locations where the sun is in my face. Same goes from boat. I don't my shadow to get there before my bait, if I can help it. So, from shore, I'm fishing the sunny side, from boat, the shady side. I hope that makes sense, and this is by no means a hard coded rule at all. Just a starting point.
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The footage doesn't lie. Great stuff Jim. Thanks so much for sharing these videos.
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I love it when they jump.
