J Francho

I'd be looking at a straight tough co-polymer line or fluoro. It would depend on what and where you're throwing it, and what you're throwing. I don't have an issue with clear water and tying direct to braid in weeds. I use a leader as a last resort. I don't subscribe to the more knots = weaker setup. my rigs for salmon and steelhead have up to six knots. The fish weight to line break strength ratio is much higher, and knot issues would shake out pretty quick. Anyway, might help if you describe what you want to throw, where, and what the rating is.

Not a stick steer, but I'd consider a Tuffy X-170 as well.

Doesn't have the line capacity to qualify. I'll echo the answers above: Millionaire, Cardiff, Ambassedeur.

4 carrier brads work better for this.

There's lots of these threads, over the years. I work in web/mobile software development. I like the team, and the work. The apps are for schools, so that's satisfying.

Travel size!

I have a couple TCS rods, and I either use straight fluoro or straight braid. I have tested both with an Alberto knot with 65# braid and a 15# leader. The knots pass fine. I would call the guides "mini" not "micro." When deciding to use a leader, you have to ask why. Then decide whether or not the trade off is worth it.

I have an old FTO wallet for spinnerbaits. Chatterbaits go in a standard 3700 Hydroflow box.

Magnum - that's the stuff. Awful.

There's one NY guy doing well in the Elites. Jamie Hartman.

That's Stren, then.

There's a JDM version of this:

Those ratings sound real familiar!

There was a flat mono, specifically made for baitcasters. Was supposed to lay flat on the spool. I think it was from Stren or Trilene. It was terrible. Heaven forbid you foul a bait, and get a few twists. It's probably the same stuff @Munkin referred to.

That's normal. Same with perch with eggs. Small portions of cured skein can be good bait.

202, so low rent, lol. I remember my dad's 33 and matching rod, as well as his gigantic 7' Garcia with a D.A.M. Quick 4000 worm drive reel. Seemed like he could send a Cleo out into oblivion with that combo!

When you can get a chance, put it in demo mode, and work through all the settings with the manual. Half of it won't stick (in my case more than half) but some of it will come back when you're on the water.

I'm feeling nostalgic about my drive to work as a line cook, back in 1989. Kidding! I remember catching with my 404, and getting a matching green Zebco rod - a six footer - HUGE! - and thinking what a pro I was. Those were the days. I'd like to go back, with the gear and skills of today.

LOL, he uses Quantum tackle, RES, and Nitro. It's not the gear, it's the angler. I need every advantage I can get, since I'm not as skilled. In other words, the very last person in the world to influence my choices would be one of the best in the world because what he does isn't in the realm of what I do.

You'll start to find yourself adjusting strength per water clarity and conditions. Same with surface clutter. I can't remember what Lowrance calls their "structure ID" for defining the bottom, but you'll want to see if that feature is there.

I use the wider cone 83 or mixed when searching or moving from spot to spot. WHen I'm fishing a spot, especially vertically in deeper water, I use the narrow 200 beam.

It's a 70 mph boat, if it's lucky. You can save $40K, and buy a hand made Bullet.

I didn't care for the 7' model I tried . It was heavy, and insensitive. Had a great bend, gave crankbaits great rebound on deflecting rocks or solid cover. It just wasn't for me. I'm too used to fishing with a full graphite, moderate stick for cranks.

I know if it were me, I'd prefer to be towing with a 3/4 ton heavy duty. My Bullet, while almost 22' long weighs much less than a similar Ranger.

1. It's a moving bait 2. Proven fish catcher - pretty much in ANY conditions 3. Easily configurable - blades, color, weight 4. Fishes at any depth 5. Fishes at any speed