J Francho

I'm not sure why it's imperative to know what forage is in the lake. Sure it helps, or maybe it helps narrow down what to throw, but 90% of what I throw resembles nothing found in nature. I think time fishing really is the key. You'll find cover, and that cover will dictate what baits work. You won't be tossing finesse baits on light line in matted milfoil. Likewise, you don't need 65# braid to toss a finesse worm on a split shot rig in deep open water. The biggest hurdle will locating fish. I gave you some clues in an earlier post. Strip pits can be challenging, but can be a real bonanza. Locate cover - wood, weeds, docks, etc, and fish shouldn't be far. Lacking that, find some defining structure - a roadbed, creek mouth, a deep ledge, close to shore - and there should be fish near. One hunt and peck technique I use in strip pits is to wander the shore at dusk, fan casting a topwater. Catch a fish, and note the location. Then focus your efforts on that area next time you fish.

This isn't always the case, bit in clear water, I fish deeper, cast farther, and use "quieter" baits, both in sound and visibility.

http://www.bassresource.com/fishing_lures/pinnacle-DHC5-performa-review.html

They work best nose hooked on a drip shot or split shot rig. I suppose you could use a weed less hook like Owners Down Shot weed less hook.

Some really nice fish on the board! Nice job guys!

Up here, putting in a dock is a privilege. With that, comes certain responsibilities. Adding hazardous waste is not one. Good for you for seeking the proper legal channels to address the issue.

X-fast for me. Most baits up to a 1/2 oz. get medium. Bigger baits, heavier power. Always x-fast, though. I want to be able to drive the hook home at distance, with no delay themat a slower rod can have.

If there's a lot of grease , and you're using a solvent, you're basically soaking them in shellack. Keep changing the solvent every ten minutes or so, or use a degreaser.

I do think it inhibits the action, which is why I usually nose hook them on a smaller hook. Everything's a trade off. Action becomes secondary to getting caught in the weeds anyway.

I generally nose hook them with a 1/0 Gam. wide gap finesse hook. If I rig them weed less, I'll use a 5/0 wide gap plus from Owner.

Those aren't even close to the numbers I get on a scale with my knots. At the last show I was getting over 6 lbs. before breaking 6 lb. Invisx. Now my buddy Paul could only muster around 3 lbs. However, using a different knot, he was getting closer to 6 lbs. Conclusion? Not everyone can tie a good knot, and fluoro will exacerbate the issue.

I use it on braid. It slows the fading process.

Takes two seconds. It's also why I roll with four rigs. If I don't retie, I often lose the tag end with the sinker on the next fish, so I'd have to retie anyway.

I like that spoon and clacker rig. You're right about keeping a jigging spoon moving. I find it best if you can get a rhythm where you jerk the bait up just as it hits the bottom. Even though it's a vertical presentation, they really are similar to moving baits. Most times, I don't feel the fish until the jerk, which ends up being the hook set.

For jigging, Hopkins Shorty and some other similar designs. Acme Kastmaster is another that can be jugged or casted. The old Johnson spoon is great in slop. I have a few others for weeds, but can't remember the name. They're made by Heddon and Northland tackle. I've caught a few smallies on Lil' Cleo, but I was casting for brown trout.

It's not something I give a second thought to. My first spinning reel, a Mitchell, made all kinds is of clicking noises with anti reverse on, and I caught plenty with that reel.

Probably was repaired after the tip snapped off.

Yep. It kind of flutters on the fall.

Here you go. Eric (the owner) and I have gone kayak fishing for northerns with this very setup. http://www.wildwaterflyfishing.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=AX78-090-4+PKG

Sounds like they're glued together. It doesn't inspire confidence, though who knows. Jaguars are glued aluminum cars.

Lol, no I just don't like handling braid through my fingers. It leaves cut marks in my callouses on my index fingers. Hard to explain it. The callouses are from playing drums for 30 years. I'll flip with braid, but if I know I'm going to be flipping short targets all day, I'll switch to fluoro.

Can't get a pic up right now, but basically rig it as if it were a beaver style bait, not a swim bait.

My buddy Jim is putting together a couples only series. Small waters, low entry, should be tons of fun. I haven't looked forward to a new series in a long time. My girl and I plan to put the hurt on.

I think it's funny when marketing departments call a reverse chine, "exclusive." Take a look at the hull of many brands of boats - many have some sort of reverse chine. Both my Xpress, and aluminum mod v pad hull, and my Bullet, a glass riser hull, have some sort of reverse chine. All it does is redirect the water from the wake. What counts is how the hull redirects water when not fully on plane, since that's how you'll be driving when it gets rough. Funny thing, my Bullet rides better in the rough stuff than my 17' deep v did. However, she's a handful to drive, having 280 hp, and a 21' 10" hull that's only 1300 lbs. There's a couple of those 20' Lunds around here. They are the fastest in the rough stuff, out of anything under 30'. But, and this is a big but…it's really all about driver ability. I've been driving boats since I was around 14. At 42, I still get better and learn how to drive in rough water every time I encounter it. That happens quite a bit, living on Lake Ontario. When you get your boat, be careful. Water is unforgiving, and minor mistakes become critical in a hurry. Good luck with getting a boat. That Cresty is a sweet ride. My good buddy has an 18' Cresty, and it's a great boat.

I use a pitch cast with every rod I own. It's a casting technique, and no one type of rod is required.