J Francho

I just use a small FTO speed bag. Leave the plastics in the original package. It's compact, quiet and tidy.

Aside from the Flooger knuckle buster, my first modern lo pro reel was a Daiwa Procaster from the mid 80s. I think it cost me around $120, which was a silly amount of cash back then for a teenager.

Test the weight that the part is snapping at. Either replace if it's not performing, or increase break strength of that part, or reduce the drag.

I have the rollers on my Xpress trailer. They only touch the boat when I'm off. Honestly, I've thought about taking them off.

I suggest getting ahold of a schematic and trying again. Obviously, something is not installed correctly. If you can't find a Lew's diagram, one of the current Revo sheets will work, since the guts are essentially the same.

A chip in the nose shouldn't effect it that much. I don't use that brand, but my Aruku Shads and Xcaluburs get beat up to where the paint is gone and they still work great.

If pick the retailer that had the rod in inventory. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward.

Shameless plug Clacker? It's the simplest and least expensive option and your guaranteed to get the thing working right. It's just good advice. I do not recommend most tear their reels apart. It's a disaster waiting to happen for all but a select few that will find it easy and enjoyable. A shameless plug would be me telling him to send it to me, and profiting from his misfortune while taking advantage of my privileges on this forum.

Send it to Delaware Valley Tackle. Mike will get it working for you.

I expect a full report. I'll be on Saranac the second week of July. Billy, what Koofy says is pretty much spot on for any of the lakes with deeper water. I will say, if you find old docks, or lay downs, bust out the jigs.

I like the hook gap to be twice the width of the plastic. Owner Cutting Points are about the sharpest.

$15. That's about what a decent scale will run. Nice fish!

Plenty of bass fisherman using round reels. I have a couple. Maybe Maico1 will chime in, I think he has like 20 round reels, and two lo pros.

"Long" and "short" are relative. Most rods marketed for bass are less than 8'. My shortest fly rod is 7'6", a little two piece 3wt. Most are around 9'. My pin rods are 10', 13', and 15' long. Even my basic spoon rod for steelhead, salmon, and browns is 9'. Look at what a proficient crappie angler is using - sometimes 15' or more. Bass rods are still relatively short. There has been a trend in the JDM market for shorter pistol grip rods. It took so long for Dee Thomas' ideas about jiggerpoling to be applied across bass fishing, I doubt we'll see a new revolution of short rods starting. They are out there. I like a shorter rod for a bunch of things. I have a few 6'3" spinners and a 6'2" caster. They are done of my favorites to use.

Kids, dogs, and everything else are the reason we can't have nice things, lol. Wax the top cap up pretty good, and be careful boarding and unboarding. The good thing is it's GSD, and they're smart. You should be able to train him to stay off the edge. They don't like the slippery surface either. But, it's always a risk.

Kent, that is sad news. In glad your taking it stride. All the stories you've shared with me about him tell me he led a full life. My condolences bud.

I like braid with a leader around cover, like weds, lay downs and docks. If you get hung up, you can break off quietly, and keep fishing. In rocks and open water, all fluoro is simpler, and preferable.

Turns mono into mush. I prefer L&L.

Garmin has been better known for mapping, but their imaging products have really come up to speed. CHIRP and Downvü brings them up to speed. Good to see another player on the scene.

I remove the split rings from my cranks. A #2 duo lock works great. Around 2/3 of my baits have snaps on them already. Makes easier than digging in another box for a little snap. I use a Palomar knot, which is much easier to tie to a snap than a split sing on a bait. You don't have to worry about the split in the ring either, though those rate times when the snap gets goofed up on the cast makes it wash over a split ring. I don't think either is better than the other. I just prefer my way for myself, and share that with others. If it works for them, then that's cool. If not, it's good too.

Roger, if you like War Eagles, give Siebert's a try. He uses a similar head and the wire tie skirt is very durable.

Gotcha. The filter probably just brings up finesse Finess bait casters and spinning reels. I'd start with a m/xf rod that feels good. Later you can get more specialized. I mainly use shorter ml/xf rods, but I'm fishing deep, deep, open water. You'll probably like what what you get, is you can always add something more specialized. Considering the drop shot rig is something many of us up north used to learn to catch panfish, it doesn't have to be too complicated.

Siebert, Strike King, War Eagle, Stanley, are what's in my bag.

Never seen a drop shot reel. Most any med/fast rod 6-7' with a 2500 reel will work for most. You can use casting gear for it, but spinning is easier, especially if you're fishing deep.

I have an Avid AVC70MHM. Works fine for throwing either type bait do long as it is within the range.