J Francho

Swimming Senko. Can't buy a bite on them.

I've played with the frog rig, and it's really an amazing reel. Took a little confidence building to really let her fly, but once you get it, you can really get that froggy out there.

Uh huh. Lake and tribs.

It's often wayyyyy down on my list of things to consider when fishing. Lower than even the color of the bait I'm using.

He's got to be referring to grubs on a ballhead.

They're pretty close. Both are acrobatic. Smaller steelhead, around 5-6 lbs. pull about as hard. The difference is in the length of the battle, and the pure struggle they put up. A good smallie on light line might take 3-4 minutes. The same steelie might be closer to 7-8 minutes. But yeah, a 10 lb. smallie? Let's just say that's a battle NO ONE would forget.

Smooth Drags: http://www.smoothdrag.com/ Delaware Valley Tackle: http://www.delawarevalleytackle.com/

8 or 10# CXX.

Just match it to the right rod, and it's good to go. I can fling peanut sized cranks plenty far enough on a AVC70MM. Lighter plastics are easy enough on a AVC69MLXF.

I fish a topwater and jerkbaits with the same reel I use for cranking, a Daiwa Alphas. You can find the US version, TD-Sol, on the used or like new market. They are 5.8:1, 23" per turn.

I'm lost on this one....

Steez? Not the most durable, but if you like high end stuff....

Jig.

I suspect it's diet related. Great Lakes salmon feed heavily on alewife, which is why they were stocked here. Sea run salmon feed heavily on prawn, which probably has a lot to do with the color differences.

Small Rapalas on spinning gear is a fun way to fish. I make a point of doing it at least one time out. Some beautifully marked browns you caught there. Nice.

It's funny, because I had no real need for the rod - already have two similarly spec'd Avids. But, the handle felt really good with a Chronarch in my hands, so.....

12# CXX ha a breaking strength of like 18 lbs. Drag is usually set for around 5-6#.

Yup I have the GL2 803CJWR paired with a Chronarch e7 spooled up with 12# P-Line CXX. I like the shorter length what dealing with close targets like dock pilings and laydowns. Nice and light, plenty sensitive, and enough beef to get fish out of cover. Stuck this winning lunker with it, tossing a jig into a laydown next to a dock:

The most drag power I've ever been able to get is out of a Zillion with a dry Carbontex upgrade. That said, I've never really needed more than the usual 8-10 lbs. most stock reels are capable of. I generally prefer smoothness and consistency, though punching milfoil and coontail on a short leash is one where I'll almost lock it down.

Pound for pound, steelhead are the hardest fighting FW fish that I know of. Ounce for ounce, props go to blue gill. To answer the OP, I'd go with the 12 lb. largemouth. A 7 lb. smallie is a possibility in many of the waters I fish.

That's exactly the set up I use. I have three of them, and they're fine with 40-65# drag. Want to make it even more powerful, add a Hawgtech handle.

Sure you can...jaw shape and head profile. Top one is definitely a hen. 2nd pic looks like a buck.

Open seat, always. Even have cheap lodging if you don't mind cast, dogs, and kids, LOL.

Yer just jealous.

It depends on what you are fishing for. If it's lake run trout in streams and creeks, then heck yes, I'm hooking them up with egg sacks all day long. If it's blue gill and crappie, then jigs tipped with worms or grubs, no problem. Bass, usually I like to start them with a moving bait with sharp hooks so the fish hook themselves. Once they are proficient at landing them, then I'll move to a drop bait, like a whacky rigged senko, or dropshot worm, if we're fishing deeper. These are two more techniques where a hookset isn't really necessary. After that, a Texas Rig is the natural progression, and you can teach the reel down and set.