islandbass

I wasn’t calling you out. I was merely reminiscing about myself when I posted in the same way. Everyone here has done it and soon you yourself will recognize this cool and beautiful pattern that occurs here with regularity. Not only in this topic but many others. I apologize for forgetting to add to my post that which is Germaine to the topic and if I offended you. I normally do add to the thread topic. So to the topic, I love fluoro, particularly in 6# test for drop shotting. Not all fluoros are equal. Some are stiff and like wiry and while others are limp. I prefer the limp style for drop shot. With that said, the fluoro I do like, Seaguar invizx is not cost effective for the rip rap I face most of the time I drop shot. I can go through a lot of line. As a result, I will normally use mono for everything. I am in the camp that I have also found in my experience that fluoro seems to transmit feed back just a little nicer than mono. I’m also a guy in whose hands even an ugly stik is sensitive so I don’t need that edge — but it’s nice to have. With that said, one thing I definitely love about mono is it is generally more resilient than fluoro and way more economical. If fluoro is stretched past a certain point, we’ll others here have already described this. I’ll close by saying there is no perfect “does everything” line — each type has its advantages and drawbacks. Once again, I apologize if you took umbrage to my first post in this thread. It wasn’t my intent to insult or make fun on you or anyone. It is a sure thing that you too will see the pattern I described and may it bring you a chuckle or too. Just wait until the next left or right handed baitcaster reel thread comes up. I really like that topic. ??

It’s the definition of insanity, lol. At the very least, the breakfast burritos I make are good going down.

Invizx if I decide to buy it. I remember when i first started using it is was like $13. Now it’s like $22 locally. I also use only 6# test. I think it’s probably been about 7 years since I used it. I love it but I know my fishing environment and how fast I can go through line from break offs in the rip rap and other snag break offs from the shore. It’s just simply not cost effective. For that same $22 I can get about 3 times as much mono. Hence, my primary line is mono. As for tatsu, I can’t count how many times I’ve walked into the shop thinking I’m going to buy it, then I see the price tag and get smacked down to reality and choke like a batter with full count and bases loaded.

Or when the next newbie asks instead of perform a topic search, lol.

Indeed. Even more so from the bank where winter is a factor. There have been times in the dead of winter if I went bass fishing freezing my rear and fingers off and teeth chattering despite being dressed appropriately, and not getting so much as a hit, I say, “I left a warm bed for this $*&^?!” Lol

Try it first. If it feels uncomfortable and crappy then exchange it. One plus of being able to fish both ways is if one side gets tired, you can switch. Not to common in bass fishing but a skill worth possessing. I bet it won’t even take three outings to get accustomed. I did and I am sure I’m not alone. That said, I prefer LH but can fish with both.

Watermelon Red Baby Brush Hog, t-rigged with a 3/16th bullet weight. Unbelievably productive. Just about as effective has been the Creme Creature. Being that they’re both “creature” type baits I should not be too surprised. Not far behind is the 5” Senko, Baby Bass color.

If I was drinking coffee when I read this, I would have spit it out laughing. Normally when I go to the lake, the bass speak among themselves. “Look, it’s islandbass again. Don’t bite, no matter what. Even if he tosses his deadly drop shot. Got it? NO BITES today”

It might not have anything to do with you personally. From what you described, I would have to say that: 1) There weren’t any fish in that area you were targeting 2) If there were fish in that area, then what you offered they didn’t want We simply cannot catch fish where they are not, and if you’re a bank angler like me, it just sucks to be us in these situations. Another thing that inclined my conclusion to this is because you already know what the bite or take is from a T-rig and ned rig. This is my opinion, but that is enough experience to translate that take of most any soft plastic or even jig. At least you started that way instead of crankbaits and inlines and spoons like I did. Steep learning curve for me, lol but I got over it. You already have the edge on the feel of the take. Lastly, too slack of a line equates to zero feel on your end — regardless of the line you are using or how amazingly sensitive that NRX or JDM rod is. The line must be just taut enough to transmit feedback from the fish to the angler. This is where the other side of observation needs to kick in and that is line watching. Bigger bass can suck down your lure and remain stationary and if your line is slack at the time they take, neither of you will know about who is on the other end of the line until either side tightens that line. So when there is slack on the line, for such presentations I’ll remove the slack and await for any feel. A simple move of the rod or a few turns of the reel tightens line. Although the do the same thing, the end result is slightly different. Removing slack with the rod (you choose whether you want to keep the lure in place or to move it to another location) I can readily bring back the slack positioning the rod to do so. Removing the slack with the reel and now line is shorter. If I needed to I can pull line off. Anything I feel that I know I didn’t put into the equation means there’s very likely a fish on the other end. Bigger fish however, are strong enough that removing the slack might feel more like a snag — because they’re not moving. Tighten up and pull back to set the hook. If it’s a fish, you’re on. If it’s a snag, we’ll, now you know, lol but no one else watching from a distance will. Hook sets are free. The last big bass I caught last year didn’t budge. I honestly thought it was snag. As a bank angler, I step back and kind of wrap the line around me to break it off but as I was rotating away from the lake to break the line, that “snag” pulled my left arm that was holding the line back violently . Oh snap. Thank goodness instinct took over. My left hand dropped the line and I immediately turned back around reeling up line at the same time. I set the hook as my front side faced the lake and it was on. She sure felt like a snag. We just have to find them first. Then we have to entice them to bite. This gives us a fair shot.

I didn’t go either. I stayed up too late making doughnuts for the Mrs., per her light night request, lol. But going to BPS? That’s kind of almost a good as fishing when you didn’t go fishing, right ??

If you have to ask . . . Lol. Honestly, I’m been vascillating on this exact question. I’d probably have a better chance to catch trout at the pond I have in mind. May we both choose to go. ?

I would love to tag sharks. Sharks have fascinated me since I got a book on sharks from the scholastic book club in first grade. Maybe it’s time to move to Florida. To the topic. Certainly. I don’t think there is anyone here who doesn’t get tired of fishing after fishing for a long time. Kind of like when you eat too much of the same thing. Or like when people drink too much alcohol and plastered enough to puke and they get hung over. They swear they’ll never do it ever again… until next week. I tell myself I’ve had enough fishing for now. It only lasts about 20 minutes. That’s what I mean. It’s temporary, lol.

What you say is true, no doubt. Unfortunately, that no one size fits all is a bait monkey ploy to get us to acquire more rods, lol. I would add that the rod’s length is also a crucial factor in the scenario you described. It might not be so much the fault of the set up itself, ie, the line or the rod but more about that super long distance between you and the lure. One simply cannot expect a typical length 6-7’ bass rod, give or take a few inches, and a super bombed out cast to be a good mix to effectively pull off a driving hook set. I am only referring to ridiculously long casts if that is what you meant. Physics is against us in this case, lol. This is where a longer rod shines. Line control and management and consequently, the hook set is easier with a longer rod. It’s also a good reason why salmon and steelhead rods are longer by nature relative to a bass rod. Many times during the drift, the lure is ridiculously far from me — and having that extra 2-3’ longer rod (typical range 8’6” - 10’6”) helps. Naturally, there are draw backs.

I agree. Although not with UL gear, there have been a few times I’ve simply admired my “awesome mega cast”, watching my lure sail away only to realize that I plum cleared the river and got my lure tangled in the shrubbery on the opposite bank (translation - over shot target by a mile). Or, I think I hit my spot so I stop the cast and then realize after the lure lands, I’m a few feet off — passed, before, or left or right of intended target. Fortunately, focused practice can greatly improve accuracy. I know a guy who could underhand cast his lure into a cup from over 75’ away, and I’m telling you, with the equivalent imagery of a swish.

Sounds delicious, lol. I usually have mega strike on my fingers too but the thought has never crossed my mind. Hmmm, lol.

Bring some grey poupon and a pair of chop sticks (or a fork) and you’ll be fine, lol. I rarely bring food but if I do it’s food that I don’t have to directly touch with my bare hands like a banana or a sandwich in a napkin can I don’t want any food that goes down the hatch to initially touched by my fishy, grubby hands lol.

That’s terrible. Sorry to hear that. Not much I say that I “hate” but one thing I do hate are thieves. ‍

@NavyVet1204 Good for you!! I am fortunate to have realized that early in the game as you did. However, my bait monkey told me he was talking to yours earlier today, and yours laughed after reading your post and said, “Wha ha ha (evil laugh) Fat chance.”? I realized that with lures too. It took about 10 years to whittle away at my stash — a combination of using, selling and giving stuff away that I can fit everything I use in a backpack and a bankers box that is 1/3 full.

Many here already know this about me—Traditional skirted jig and trailer. I know, embarrassing but true.

It would be far easier to find a comparable 2-piece rod. I just looked and Shimano has 2-piece Muskie rods. https://fish.shimano.com/content/fish/northamerica/us/en/homepage/Shimano_Product_Page.P-SKIXX_MUSKIE.html#product_image_2 I agree on having two rods, but I am speaking from experience when I say this. A huge NO to leaving a rod. Why? Because you will never ever see that rod again. I’m so dumb that I did it twice. And twice, the rods got lost. The first time I left an 8’6” rod and MIL’s house in Mexico. No one knows what happened to it. The second time, I was forced leave a rod because to Mexico you can bring a rod as a carry on. However, you CANNOT bring it with you as a carry on back to the US. So I handed it to a relative who said they’d keep an eye on it. One can only guess what happened. So I say this tongue and cheek but there is an underlying truth. No one will care for or about your rods like you would. Comma, exclamation point and period, lol. Getting a 2-piece rod is the most practical solution. You just need to figure out how much you’re willing to spend. ?

Wisdom. Practicality. A jab and slap with a white glove at the “only bass fish with casting gear crowd” lol. A step toward the right tool for the right job tenet. With that said, I have detected your bait monkey’s subliminal messaging in both thought and whispers. Best of luck. You might soon have 6 spinning set ups, lol. As a bank angler myself, I have learned I will mostly use 3 and a rare 4th rod. I choose the rigs based on my gut instinct and the lake I’m going to. Sometimes I incorrectly assess so you just got to deal with it. I also created a rod quiver to help me carry 3 rods in one hand in an organized manner. I am thinking of making another one to hold 4. The general 3 are: Spinning - 7’ Okuma Celilo L action. This handles my UL and light finesse, inline spinners, lighter drop shot, UL treble baits. etc. Spinning - 6’6” MH Shimano Compre - It acts more like a medium powered rod and so it handles soft plastics, and surprisingly makes for a decent drop shot rod. It is unbelievably versatile in that it also handles medium cranks and jerkbaits and senkos beautifully. It has enough backbone to land salmon Casting - 7’ Cabelas Magtouch M powered - This rod feels more MH in power perhaps due to its excellent back bone. I use it as an all purpose rod too and it performs superbly. I’ve pulled bass out of the weeds and it easily drives a spinnerbait single hook through a bass’ boneyard upper jaw and I barely set the hook. Like the Compre, its mettle has been tested by salmon. I just bought a Daiwa AirdX that is M, casting and 2-piece. This is the 4th rod I would like to start bringing on a regular basis. All of these rods are 2-piece rods. They need to be for the trunk and convenience sake. Their sensitivity is pretty darn good. The downside is my true bass rods (my 1-piece rods) hardly get to be used during the week. @ATA: I am sure you’ll find the balance. I know I did.

Lol. Reminds me of an old comedy show called what’s happening. I think her name was Shirley and she asked someone to try the a dish she just finished making that she called Tuna Casserole Surprise. The guy tries it and remarks, “Hey… There’s no tuna in this!?” And Shirley replied, “Surprise!” Bad joke but I was lmao To the topic - 1) Reels - I’ve putting it off but I need to clean my reels. 2) Got to prepare from all facets and angles to get my first bass on the standard skirted jig and trailer. It is one of the last nuts I’ve yet to crack in bass fishing.

Don’t feel so bad. I didn’t realize it either but then I had a little deja cut and low and behold, I went earlier into the thread and I did post and gosh almighty — my response was nearly identical, lol. This is not the first time for me either. Most of the time I catch myself before I hit the submit button, but I didn’t this time, lol. I hear you. In my state, sometimes barbless is mandatory and if you do a tick poor job crimping the barb down you can still be cited. My experience between treble vs single, my hook ups seem higher with the single hook vs the treble. I also think in certain positions, the single hook can contribute to a more direct hook set. As for short strikes, they will happen regardless of whether the hook is single or treble. In addition, it is far easier to release a fish caught on a single hook especially if barbless. That said, my preference for single hook over treble hook is with regard to inline spinners and spoons.

Nice one!!!! First time hearing it. ?

Not only that, but I think (opinion) it seems to resist developing memory the best compared to other monos. And I am saying this as one who likes monofilament in general and love the standards - Trilene XL, XT, Big Game, Sufix Siege and Elite, Stren Flourescent Blue (my spinnerbait line in 14#). To the topic - wiry or limp. Not really an issue for me for mono as the lines I use since the highest I go for Bass fishing is 14#. Generally, I’ll lean toward the limp side for lighter/finesse tactics AND spinning gear so maybe 6-10# test and 10# is stretching it for me for plastics but I might also use it for smaller and medium cranks. On the Baitcaster side, the thicker, wiry monos are not an issue. Jigs, spinnerbaits, t-rigs, etc.