gobig

In Pursuit of giant bass has already been mentioned. Get Bill Siemantels book The BBZ. He also has a DVD out.

I think you hit the nail on the head with this statement. If you ask someone who fishes natural, bland, semi structural lakes what a secondary point is... you will probably get an answer similar to what Bill Dance gives. A secondary point is a smaller point that extends off of a point. To me that is the spot with in a spot, the sweet spot, honey hole, what ever you want to call it. On a lake with very little structure these subtle changes can be the key to big fish. So they had to label these locations and calling it a secondary point kinda makes sense. Now the flip side would be asking someone who fishes a man made, deep water, reservoir... What's the difference between a main lake point and a secondary point? You will get a different answer. These lakes are generally steep, structure laden impounds with many points that drop into well defined creek channels or river beds. Thinking about catt's question the term primary point over main lake is probably a better use of terms. So think of it this way... the easiest way to identify a primary point (main lake) is a creek will intersect with a primary channel or two primary channels will intersect some where in front of the point. A secondary point will fall into a creek channel with no intersection. I hope what I am trying to say makes sense.

Nice. 8-)

For the most part you are going to find the bigger girls fishing deeper structure. Cranks have not been my main focus but after the start I have had on them this year and a few of the sacks I had on them last year I see my self using them much more frequently. The Deep Little N has been my go to crank (almost time to bust out the DD22). Most of my fish have come between 10-15ft of water and are in the 3-5lb range (my biggest on a crank is 11lbs 2oz). I have never fished the chain of lakes your referring to but would start at main lake points. If you do not get bit move to secondary points and the edges of flats. Anything that drops into a creek channel is a plus. Fish the bait parallel to the structure or position shallow pulling the bait uphill into the structure. Pay close attention to your casts because the more time you spend on that body of water you will start to find sweet spots that will produce time and time again. In most cases you will get bit more when your bait stays in contact with the bottom. All though there are days it will happen do not expect to get bit every five minutes. IMO 5-10 quality bites in a day are far better than catching 30 dinks. As far as gear I would suggest a 7+ ft rod in a med/hvy rod with a mod/fast action. A long rod makes longer casts helping achieve the desired depth for longer periods of time. I like a faster retrieving reel than most. I feel you work less. Its just preference. You may need to use line as light as 6lb maximize your depth, especially in the summer months. Anyway hope this helps.

I have caught a few big sacks on the xps pro flat cranks. But the hooks suck. You have to change them out. Your getting ripped off. I buy Deep Little N's and DD22's for about $4.

Depends on location and conditions. 1. Slammer 2. Punker 3. Persuader Double buzzer 4. Snag proof phat frog 5. Spook

Spro makes the fat fly.

Please keep throwing your plastics. The less Jigs you guys use the better for me.

The same baits you would use in a lake. You need to find current breaks (wing dams, berms, big rocks, ledges, flats, sand bars, cuts etc...). The fish will position head first into the current waiting for a meal come to them.

Two totally different baits, not even the same world. If your newer to swimbaits I would go with the 6in bbz1. It still has some of the drawing power of a big bait and its small enough to get numbers of fish with that possible kicker. Plus you don't need a swimbait rod to throw it. I have caught a ton of fish in the 2-5lb range on this bait so far this year.

Caution may cause heart attack This one works great. I did this at a halloween party on a cooler where the beer was. Go to the toy store and buy a decent size rubber snake. Tie a strand fishing line around the neck and attach the other end of the line with some duct tape to the under side of the live well lid. When the lid is opened the snake comes popping out. I would hate to see my partner drop a big fish and have it go over board. But I think its worth the risk.

There is a definite difference in a quality rod from an average one. The balance, sensitivity, durability and weight will all be noticeable. Not to mention the warranties are usually excellent. However I do not think you have to spend $400 to get a great rod. If you wait for sales you can buy high quality rods for under $200. Memorial day weekend BTD had 20% off (example:you could have purchased a Dobyns champ rod for $175-$195 after disc). Some manufactures like Powell dropped their price point down to $169 or less due to the economic times. Anyone who has been around fly fishing knows Powell has been in business for a long time and makes high quality products. My point is you do not have to break the bank to get a good rod and you could buy 2 rods for the price of something like a GLX. Tackle tour is a great place for reviews and can help you make good decisions.

Many of us out West use braid with a floro leader on our dropshot set up because of sensitivity (We fish deep. Its not uncommon to fish 50+ feet) and the line twist is almost eliminated. Rather than changing line often, you change the leader.

I use a standard Gami dropshot/splitshot hook in a size 2. I have never had a problem with fish not getting hooked. All ya do is reel and lift the rod tip.

They are killer baits. Great for punching or texas rig. I would use them on jigs but the slit for the hook does not give much to bite into as a trailer and the bait does not sit right on the hook. I thought about using mend it to see if I can make it work.

I think finesse is better defined as a technique then its is as a specific bait or rig. The size of the bait does not define the technique either. Think pinpoint presentations that are slowed way down or even dead sticked. Now for the particular rod that you are referring to I would stick to things like dropshot, shakey head, flick shake, split shot, dart head, senkos and smaller jigs.

There is a better chance of dying on the way to the lake... or from heart disease... or a stroke. The list goes on. http://www.funny2.com/odds.htm

I kinda had the same experience. I have started to add them as a front hook on my swimbaits and I have been thinking about doing it to some of my cranks and jerk baits. I need to play with this idea more. If it makes the fish take the bait deeper at all it may be worth it.

I have used it. I is really abrasion resistant. Its tough line. What I don't like about it is it dries out and looses its cast ability fairly quick. Its also hard as hell to see.

I have not used the low profiles reels but I do have an induron 400. After one year of fishing big baits on it the drive gear and the pinion gear are skipping. So far the only reels for me that have with stood the abuse of big baits are a shimano (calcutta, cardiff) and Abu (C3) . I plan on sending it in. I have their guide select rods which have been great. Broke one last year and Okuma was supper easy to deal with. $15 for shipping and a week and a half later I had a new rod. They have excellent customer service.

On swimbaits I know of people who have had two DD's at the same time. I have had it happen with smaller fish a few times.

Jigs are a bait that I use frequently. As for the set up it depends on the jig and the application. Football head jigs perform best around rocks. In open water with little to no vegetation I prefer a jig with no weed guard. In this case usually I turn to a gami football head paired with a GYM twin tail hula grub. The hook on this set up is a light wire hook (remember its exposed). There is no need to cross their eyes. A simple sweep of the rod does the trick. This set up can be used on a med to med-hvy action rod (spinning or baitcast) with 8-12lb line. My preference is P-line floroclear. Because of the lighter set up fish will hold this jig longer. They are less apt to spit it fast. On this set up they will just kind of be there in many instances. The next application I use a lot is a flipping/pitching set up. I use this in areas with a ton of cover (and sometimes in the open if I want a bigger presentation). In this situation more often than not I turn to a 3/4-1oz dirty jig (I like to use a beaver as a trailer) paired with a heavy action flipping stick and 65lb power pro. If the water is clear I add a 20lb P-Line floroclear leader. I use a uni knot to join the braid to the leader. With this set up you cross their eyes. Don't wait. If you suspect a bite hit'em hard. I generally feel the traditional thunk on this style bait. If you feel a second thunk its too late. That is the fish spitting the bait. Always let a jig fall on slack line. You really have to watch your line. Many of the bites will come on the fall. Any jump or twitch in the line is most likely a bite. Also be aware of the depth. Count as the jig falls. If you have a 10 count and it stops falling at 5 its probably a fish. Anything, and I mean ANYTHING that does not seem right assume its a fish. Once the jig is on the bottom I let it sit (sometimes several min). There are several ways you can fish a jig. When the fish are active I start with a faster presentation. My favorite way to fish a jig is stroking it. This involves ripping it off the bottom and letting it settle with pauses in between. You can drag it like a texas rig, use a slow steady crawl, swim it or stitch it. I do not think there is really a wrong way to fish a jig (other style jigs are better suited for certain presentations). Just mix it up and see what they want. I also want to add that I never use a double hook set. By doing so you are adding the possibility of dropping slack into the line greatly increasing the chance of loosing the fish. If I feel the need to have a better hook set I up-scale my gear or use braid. You can always attach a leader if there is a need.

That hopkins is a nice looking bait.

There are several good bluegill baits out there. Mattlures is one of them. JSJ snack size bluegill, Black Dog Shell Cracker (and mini cracker) and Tylures Kicker Sunfish are also good baits.

This post should be added to read me before posting in important topics.