BigMatt

I use 26 gauge wire. Not much smaller than 24, but I can work with it easier and get it tied the way I like to. I usually take a piece about 4" long and wrap around the jig four or five times then twist the ends together and clip the excess off. I have never had a skirt come undone once I started doing it like this. But, as one has said already above, everyone has their own way of doing this and no one way is absolutely right. You just have to find what you like to work with. Have fun.

The North Fork blanks are pretty good from what I have been told but they are still very expensive. I mean after they are still G Loomis blanks. I don't think it is a justifiable expense when you compare the two. MHX blanks run in $45 to $75 range and NFC blanks are three times that, starting around $150 and going well over $200. The MHX, even the HM blanks, are well worth the money and perform just like G Loomis IMX rods. I know everybody has there own likes and dislikes, but MHX offers incredible perform at a budget price.

I use the standard MHX blanks. One of the gentlemen who works there, I believe it was Scott, told me there are based on G. Loomis IMX rod blanks. My favorite blank is the SJ842. I fish a lot of finesse techniques- shakey heads, wacky rigs/ flick shake, weightless worms, drop shots-- and it is absolutely a perfect rod. If you are looking for a "do it all rod" you can't go wrong with a MB843 blank and they make it in the high mod too. Though, I am partial to a 7' rod. The main difference between the HM and standard MHX blanks is, obviously, the High modulus graphite. The HM are probably more like the GLX blanks as far as quality of blank. But, you really can't go wrong with either one. The standard blanks has much more options to offer and the HM is rather limited. For the price, I would say go with the standard MHX blanks because they are about half the price tag of the HM. I use all MHX rods now, from spinning rod to flipping rod. It has saved me a ton of money to make my own rods and use MHX blanks. They are super lightweight so that helps with sensitivity and I also use micro guides so its like putting radar in your hands when you use a good fluorocarbon line. You really can't go wrong with any blank. If you are looking for one rod, go with the MB843 or MB844, HM or standard. If you concerned about budget, then go with the standard MHX blanks, they generally run around $50 give or take a few bucks. Other than my long crankbait rod and flipping rod, I can get one made for around $95 with alconite guides. The HM are gonna take up most of your budget if you have $100.

I'm using the recommended hooks and screw locks made by Do-it. I think I am just gonna see about exchanging it at Bass Pro Shops rather than trying to fix it or something like that. Thanks for the help though.

Or, here is a better question. How many of you guys have realized that you messed up a mold that you just bought? I think I actually messed up the mold and that is why I am having trouble. I tried to file just a little bit off the hook groove and screw lock groove and took just a hair too much. It's always exciting to figure out you wasted $40.

I just bought a football screw lock shakey head mold at bass pro shops yesterday. I started pouring a few jigs today and ran into a serious problem that is making the jigs turn out very badly. The head has some extra flashing around it like the mold isn't closing completely and the screw locks are being bent as I close the mold. I can fit each piece- the hook and screw lock- in separately and the mold closes just fine. But when you put both in to make a jig the mold doesn't close and turns out the way I described. Does anyone have any pointers or experience with this that they could pass on to me so I can get things right? Maybe Cadman or G-Man can help, they seem to be the go to guys here for tackle making. Thanks.

I started making my own rods recently using MHZ blanks from Mudhole. They are exactly like GLoomis blanks, in both specs and actual performance, and they cost a lot less. I have three rods I am working on now that I spent around $250 to do. Once you get through the initial investment in equipment like dryers or wrappers and epoxy glue and finish, you can make rods for around $85 to $100, and they are custom rods. Something to think about if you like making your own gear like I do.

I like to wire tie my jigs now. I will cut the standard bands in half and put the skirt on the jig, then take a piece of 26 gauge craft wire, which you can get at Michael's for like 3 or 4 bucks for a 30 yard roll. Anyway, wrap the wire around three or four times, then twist it to tighten it down and trim off any excess. One of the best things I have ever done in jig making. Give it a shot, its worth it.

I have started fishing some events as a co-angler and the telescopic rod helps me out a lot. They are a bit heavier, but only a little bit, and I have big hands and forearms so I like it. They travel well for sure and they help when you have to be conscious of the rods you take with you to fish. So, obviously, I like the telescopic rods. And I generally use rods up to 7' before looking to my telescopic rod. except for my flipping stik all of my rods are 7' long which is just inside my truck bed.

I've had great success building on MHX blanks. IMO they are by far one of the best values in blanks. They are sensitive and available with super fast actions. I agree completely. I am honestly amazed they are as cheap as they are for the quality of the blank. I have a BPS Pro Finesse rod that has been replaced by this MHX rod. I will be replacing all of my rods with MHX rods, from finesse to flipping.

I just started used a custom rod made with an MHX blank from Mudhole. I had the same budget of $150 for the rod and found a custom builder near me who built it for a lot less than that and with better components than most of the rods I was looking at. I ended up using alconite guides and the same real seat as the carrot stiks and I love it. The blank from Mudhole was around $60 or so and it was definitely worth getting a custom rod. I has the right amount of tip for drop shotting, but still enough backbone for shakey heads and senkos. Check out mudhole.com, I used the MHX SJ842 blank for the rod and will definitely using these exclusively. I think most would agree who have gone the custom rod route, but I will never get a production rod from a major brand ever again.

Those reels look awesome!!!! But I would wager that they are japan release only.

Those craws are awesome. Where did you get your molds?

You can check Barlow's Tackle or Jann's Netcraft for all that stuff.

I know I am straying a bit from the current discussion. But some of the best I have seen on here are from ejtaylor822. He is in north carolina and does amazing work. I have never fished one of his rods, but he is quite possibly one the nicest guys you could ever deal with. And he loves simply sharing ideas and helping people out with builds they are doing. Another, and I am not sure he is member of bass resource, is Matt Elrod in South Carolina. His background is fly rods but he does bass rods too. I am in the process of building a new spinning rod with him and will continue with other builds. Like Eddie Taylor, he is a super nice guy. Obviously more concerned with giving the right rod to the customer. His website is www.elrodcustomrods.com if you wanted to check him out.

I wouldn't mind picking up some of those. You thinking about selling some of those little beauties?

I finally dove into custom rod building. I have been using the MHX blanks from mudhole and they rock. Amazingly light and sensitive, but still strong. I like a moderate fast tip as well, but sometimes I will use my spinnerbait rod, which is slightly stiffer, so I can work the bait better after a long cast, its also easier to maintain a good cadence with a slightly stiffer rod.

I just started using Vicious fluorocarbon. So far so good. I think they have some of the best customer service and support of their product available. And its the cheapest brand available that is actually 100% fluorocarbon, not so for others lines that say they are. I good line conditioner does a lot for fluoro as well, the vicious and KVD line conditioner are pretty much the same thing but it does wonders.

Generally that would be true. I would take the time to put in some better oil and grease on the gears and bearings. It just helps get those parts coated well right out of the gate and then makes it easier to know when to do that regular maintenance.

I usually make my own shakey jigs. I use the Do-It mold with a mustad hook. I know this is just my opinion, but I think mustad far outperforms gamakatsu. As for worms, I like a Zoom finesse worm or shakey head worm(pin type worm) as my first choices, then I will go to something else if I need to, but most of the time I will go through five or six green pumpkin finesse worms without batting an eyelash. I have had luck with other colors, sizes, etc, but that womr is almost guanranteed money maker any time of year.

Those are nice. Did you pour the heads yourself or did you buy them, then paint them yourself? Would love to know where you got them.

I will give that a try. Thanks.

I just finished building a fluid bed for painting jigs and spinnerbaits. But, I am curious about one thing. I put some paint into one of the cups and slowly opened the air valve to let into the paint but I am getting two spots where air is coming through and not the smooth rolling boil that so many have described will happen with a fluid bed. What should be looking for as the problem? Or is it completely fine?

Mustad does make a really good flat eye wide gap hook. I use them in my football jigs. They are the 38109. I know that probably doesn't work for you, but I would choose Mustad over Gamakatsu 7 days a week and twice on Sundays. Just a better quality hook, but thats my opinion.

That is so good. I want one. ;D