TrippyJai

I didn't notice any difference today with the upgraded spool bearings for pitching. I usually pitch with no brakes and spool tension backed off until the spool stops moving side to side. Didn't help any in accuracy. The only thing I've noticed since the day I purchase these bearings are they make casting much easier. I can get about the same amount distance with less effort. I don't know if I'm gaining any distance though, haven't really measured.

Which application would benefit the most from bearing upgrades? I don't have enough sets to install them on all my Curado Es and I don't plan on purchasing anymore because the flushed stock bearings are good enough. I currently have a set on my weightless t-rig reel to help cast light lures a little easier and a set in my crankbait reel to get more distance. I want to put a set in my pitching reel, but I don't see a need when I back off all the brakes and spool tension. I might want to throw them on another crankbait rod and spinnerbait rod.

Anything made by mom!

I have the same issue at my favourite pond. It used to be full of algae and I would have a blast catching fish, but now it's "under construction". All the weed is literally gone and there's a blue tint to the colour. I am assume, they put something in the water to control. BTW, fishing has been terrible.

Man... that's just brutal. So how did you end up getting it out?

Plenty of great advices here. You should also find yourself a honest mechanic who owns a shop and build a relationship. Maybe ask a few buddies if they know anyone as well. My whole family takes our cars to the same place for oil changes and repairs. Over the years, we've built a relationship and even became friends with the owner of this small shop. I would refer many people to him and even purchase brand new sets of tires, batteries, etc at a more expensive price just to let him earn extra money. In return, he's helped our family a lot with the advices he's given us alone. Not to mention all the little fixes and inspections that he doesn't charge us when we have a problem. It works both ways.

I saw this in my sister's room so I stole it to sharpen my hooks and it works really well. It costs like a dollar as well. A 4 sided nail filer and buffer. I use side 2 very lightly to side 3 then finish with the last side. It won't damage your hooks.

I agree with this. The rod is your problem. Use a rod with a softer tip, yet has plenty of backbone like the 733C.

Here's a tip for you. If you clean your own reels, you can check out how many teeth the pinion gear has. The more teeth, the slower the gear ratio is. Make sure you are comparing the same model reels and size as well because I don't know if this thoery holds true when comparing a 200E vs. a 50E size reel. One day I was cleaning 6 200E size reels and accidently mixed the pinion gears together because I knocked the table over. I then had to figure out which belonged where. The E7 had 11 teeth, E6 had12 and the E5 had 15 teeth. Here's a picture I took because I had a hard time counting them, so I decided to enlarge it on a computer. The left is an E6 (6.2:1), other 2 belonged to the E7s.

Last year I gut hooked a bass and it was bleeding. It smelled awful and I wanted to get it back in to water ASAP. I've always though it was because maybe it was in stressed and released something from it's body. I have no idea though.

I've got 10 Curado Es and never had that issue you mentioned. The 200Es are not smooth reels at all, but they are not rough by any means. I still have 2 brand new in the box and they need some breaking in. They do get better with use. However, the 2 Curado 50Es that I have are butter smooth since the day I opened the boxes. What type of grease are you using on them? How does the gears look? Are the damage?

I use it for punching, flipping, frogging and lipless cranks. I avoid it when I'm fishing in rocky areas, clear water and crankbaits with treble hooks. Adding a leader helps as well.

I use the Palomar knot for everything including fluoro and have never had any issues. You need to tie it correctly and wet your line before tightening it. Recently, I have started to use the San Diego Jam for everything except braid and I can tie it in literally 3 seconds. It's great for treble hooks because you don't have to go around the lure and waste line like the Palomar. To connect braid to a leader, I use the Alberto Knot. It's easy to tie. Copolymer - McCoy Mean Green Braid - Regular Power Pro Fluoro - Sunline Super Sniper FC

That is normal even with the drag tighten down all the way, you are still able to push it down. There is a spring underneath which the drag star sits on.

That's insane!

It seems to me you're over thinking. There is a time and place for everything such as colour. Sometimes it makes all the difference and other times, it doesn't matter. Since your struggling to understand, I would keep it simple. Soft plastics, I use 3 colours most of the time, Green Pumpkin in stained, Black and Blue in dirty and Watermelon in clear. Crankbaits, I always match the hatch and size of the baitfish. I prefer the bluegill colours in clear water and chartreuse to show up in dirty water. Keep this in mind. Clear water situtaions, downsize, tight wobble, natural colours, transparent colours. Dirty water, you want your bait to show up so bright/flashy colours, rattles, bigger baits, more vibration. Same rules applies when fishing water tempatures as well as fish aggressiveness. In cold water, you would want to slow it down with a bait that has less action and the opposite in warmer tempatures. If they are active, you can get away with a lot, but when the bite is tough, you need to figure it out. Nothing is set in stone and this is what I generally stick to. There will be times when I notice something and make changes accordingly.

$120 is too much for the Citica E. You can get one around $70-80 new/mint condition if you look around so I would pass on it. The Curado D series is bigger and heavier, but they do palm nicely unless you have small hands. They are built like tanks and will last you forever if you take care of it. For $100, you could always give it a shot then list it for $80 easy sell. BTW, they are heavier, but if you can find a rod that balances well, you won't notice a difference other than the size of it.

If it does that with only your rods then I agree with .RM. that it's a rod issue or it'll do it with every rod. The frame should never flex like others have mentioned. I have 7 E7s and never had this issue. Another thing to try is, look up the cast control and drag and see if it helps any.

While their rods are now rated one IM # higher, they use different resins in their graphite, so to say the new Compre's uses the old crucials blanks is not true. None of the blanks they use for their rods now are the same as last generations.

Looks awesome. I prefer the full handle cork as well.

I place my bearings in a sealed baby jar filled with acetone. Let it sit overnight then take them out to air dry for a couple hours. Test them and they should spin freely then add 1 drop of oil of your choice to the little gap inner race.

Every soft plastic bait on the market today will catch fish. Read any reviews on *** the only negatives you'll ever see is someone complaining about 'durability' including the SK Rage Craws. It's all personal preference and confidence. There's a time and place for every bait, sometimes they want more action in the trailer and other times less action. I'm glad you've found a cheaper alternative.

AJ was the only angler that figured out a pattern. Although everyone was in the same small area, he knew where to make his pitches to those tall isolated grass, can't remember what they were called. I also think him using a smaller bait, yum wooly bug in the 3.25" size was the ticket as well. It kind of reminded me when Ish on Chautauqua Lake was using a heavier 1.5oz weight pitching to those docks and hammering them. So important to make these little adjustments sometimes. I love MLF!

Went out to the local hardware store to see what they had and they've changed the Elmer's Carp. Wood Filler from Interior/Exterior to Interior only. I wasn't sure if they've changed the formula as well so I emailed them and they said to use their ProBond Max Wood Fillers. I'm still not sure what the best option is for me since I'm really picky with my gear so I might just leave my handles alone for now.

Another vote to send it in to DVT.