TrippyJai

bantam1 said the decision to drop the Chronarch D was because at $300, people opted to purchase the Core instead. At the time, you could almost get 2 Curado Es and if you wanted to move up, people chose the Core because of weight. On paper, there wasn't really a reason to purchase the Chronarch D. Who knew it was such a gem. I didn't hear much about it until it was discontinued and then everyone talked about how great it was.

I sanded down the power hump behind the reel seat and all the wood filler fell out. I want to fill those voids. It looks like this. Can you tell me what type/brand of epoxy? I actually don't know what that is. What is the mix ratio between cork dust/epoxy?

I recently sanded down the hump on an Avid and all the filler fell out. It looks and feel terrible. I did some research and it seems that people are recommending Elmer's Wood Filler, but I've never done this before and would like some help in case I mess up my handle. I would like to get it back close to factory if possible. What colour should I purchase? Will the filler make my handle feel different than say the bottom end I left untouched? Is it okay not to apply a cork sealer? Will it fall out when wet or when I clean my handle with Mr. Clean Magic Eraser? Any other ways to fill the voids that's better than the Elmer's?

I don't think anyone is bashing the G series because of their perfomance. In fact, you could purchase the Citica's, add a bearing or two and it will keep up with the Curado in every way. Shimano fans are disappointed in what they did to the most beloved reel, the Curado. I understand they had to make changes, but the solution they came up with wasn't very good, especially when everyone was looking forward to something cool before ICAST. The Chronarch D didn't sell very well, so Shimano decided to discontinue it.

Don't try to open the bearings, you might damage them. That is why I prefer to soak them a few times and overnight to make sure I get all the old grease out. Once you've air dried them, they should spin freely. Place one drop of oil and that's it. Note: if the drop of oil didn't get into the bearing, it will continue to spin freely, but if it got in, it'll only spin for like 2-3seconds, which is what you want. http://www.tackletour.com/images2/imgbearings101c.jpg Place a drop between the inner race and shield. There's a little gap there.

Yep, place the bearings in a container with acetone and let it sit over night. You might need to flush it a few times to get all the factory grease out of it. Once your done, let it air dry and place 1 drop of oil in each bearing.

Return it and get the E.

To open video, press the 'Desktop' at the top and it will go to youtube and you'll be able to watch it.

Let's say your going to use a 1oz weight, 4/0 flipping hook, punch skirt and bait, that's probably close to 1.5oz and already over the rods rated weight. Sometimes a 1oz weight isn't heavy enough and you'll need to go to 1.25oz+, so you'll want at least a heavy action rod. Longer rods will give you more leverage as well. I have a 7' rod rated up to 1.5oz and it feels under power for light punching, but does well for frogs. I rarely punch, unless I see a mat too good to pass up.

Glad to hear they have great customer service.

I plan to slowly switch all my rods to Dobyns even if I have to pay extra to get them in Canada. They are the only rods I will buy without handling. I like that balance is a priority, they still use full grip cork and ecs reel seats. Like others have mention, look around for a used champion. They go for 150-180 range used.

I use one rod most of the time because I fish the same place most of the time. I think 2 rods covers most of my applications when I'm shore fishing. When I get a chance to rent a boat and heading to a lake I haven't fished before, I bring all my rods including my tackle.

I use Shimano Drag Star Grease because I can put it on my Carbontex drag as well.

Me and my girlfriend love the show. I like watching him travel to remote areas and fishing. My girlfriend likes him as a biologist. His catches are pretty cool as well. My favourites would be the Goonch catfish and the Tiger Fish. I also like Jeremy Wade because I don't find him annoying, which is a good thing since I get annoyed easily from all the crappy shows they have on TV these days.

My parents used to take me camping with some of their family friends every year during the long weekend. We used only live worms and caught 100s of sunfish/bluegill. The odd pike/catfish and bass. It wasn't until I was in highschool I got back into fishing and started to use artificial lures to catch bass. The Zoom Finese Worm wacky rigged was the lure that caught my first bass returning to fishing.

While you don't have to deflect off something to catch fish on crankbaits. Most of my crankbait bites have come off a deflection, so I'll always try to trigger bites by doing that. When I first started fishing these lures, I lost so many and didn't catch any fish at all. It was frustrating making 10 casts and 20 minutes trying to un-snag them. Read up on how to walk a crankbait through cover. How to fishing them effectively and which crankbaits to use when and where.

How are you fishing this bait? Do you have to crash it into stuff or a steady retrieve is enough?

People need to stop buying carrot sticks, they are notorious for breaking, but the real problem is they have absolutely ZERO customer service. If you break it, good luck getting it replaced.

If you already know which pond/lake your going to fish, take a long walk and check the place out. Bring whatever you need to fish that place effectively. For example, if your fishing a shallow lake with a lot of vegetation, clear water, bring your t-rigs in watermelon/green pumpkin colours and top water frogs. You wouldn't need anything with treble hooks, etc. If the lake has a lot of open water, no visible structure, take your spinnerbait, crankbaits to cover water until you find something like a grass bed or sunken log. Then pull out the t-rig rod and fish a senko or whatever and pick that structure apart. I have a ton of tackle, but rarely do I bring everything with me when fishing from the bank. The only thing that chances is water clarity/wind.

I like to replace my hooks with the Mustad KVD Elite Series Triple Grips. Most crankbait hooks come in either a size 6, 4 or 2... with 2 being the biggest size. If you choose to replace your hooks with a short shank style then you can replace a size 4 with a larger size 2. If you decide to go with the standard route then replace them with the same size. KVD 1.5 - 2.25" - 3/8oz -I prefer to place the hooks on these baits because I use them a lot. People say they are terrible as well, but I haven't had much issues on the stock hooks. Luck E Strike STX - 3.75" - 1/4 oz -Replace the split rings with some stainless steel size 2 or size 3, you can get them off ebay for cheap in 100ct. The hardware on this bait is terrible. The hooks need to go as well. XCalibur One Knocker - 2.5" - 5/8oz Spro Aruku Shad - 3" - 5/8oz Red Eye Shad - 2.5" - 1/2oz -I usually don't change anything on Spro and Xcalibur baits because they come with good hooks, but I lose a lot of fish on lipless crankbaits so I change them out. You might also want to upsize the back hook on the Aruku's as well because they use a smaller size. Keep the stock hooks for the Spro and Xcalibur and maybe put it on some other crankbaits, they aren't bad for stock hooks. The Red Eye uses the same hooks people hate on the KVD 1.5s.

After this thread, I need to start bringing a roll of TP with me on my fishing trips. Just in case.

Every bait has it's time and place. I will most likely give these baits a try. I understand the whole hunting deal, but does it really trigger a bass in striking? Almost all my bites have either come frome the initial retrieve or deflected off something.

LOL. I was doing #3 before I ready #4. Got me as well.

Youtube videos. Check them out, a lot of good information and tips.

Shooter is right, everyone in cycling dopes and if they didn't, they can not complete these rigorous races. It's almost physically impossible to do it.