SirSnookalot

I'm only interested in the recreational aspect, I don't tournament fish. I prefer fishing as light as I can no matter what the species is. I just don't care to use equipment to catch bass that I'm using for larger fish. What others use is up to them, I don't condemn it, just isn't for me.

I learned this technique from a tarpon fisherman in Florida a number of years ago. The rig can be set up many different ways, the sliding swivel (like a trolley rig) works fine, but I have eliminated it and just tie on a leader from the main swivel. I do not use 2 flukes, I like using a x-rap on the main leader and a fly on the top leader, has worked for snook and tarpon. Have tired it in freshwater using a smaller x-rap and fly, has worked for bass and I've caught a double header that way. Don't do it too often, I prefer a single bait.

I found a pair about 6 years ago on the jettie, cost no more than 10 bucks, works perfect on the smallest to some large ones I use for offshore. I use my thumbnail for removal of the old hooks and rings, use the pliers for installation. Isn't too much to it.

I think I have broken 1 or 2 rods in my life and it was user error. Not that a warranty isn't nice but for a rod priced under a $100, for me it isn't worth the hassle of sending it back to the manufacturer, over the counter exchange is ideal. I have no qualms about purchasing a rod with no warranty, in the case of Dicks, BPS and my local tackle shop, they would exchange or refund a defective rod.

Freshwater spinning, 10 and15# braid, always a leader 15-20#. Saltwater inshore spinning, 15 & 20# braid, always a leader 30-40# Cuda spinning, 14# trilene xl Offshore spinning, 30# braid, 40# leader Offshore conventional, 20# p-line floroclear, 40-60# leader. Drift boats, 17# mono, 40# leader

If you mean expensive not all of them. Penn reels cover the price spectrum. As far as Pflueger goes, certainly not the strongest drags as far as max numbers, but the drags are smooth and handle fish quite well. My 5000 medalist (sitting in box only because it's 18oz), nothing but a 4000 with larger spool capacity has caught some incredible 30+ jacks and dorado, to date it's still the smoothest reel I own and it's like new after 4 years. I have 3 supremes, the 35 was my beach snook reel for 18 months, these snook can test your drag, performed flawless and it isn't even a sw reel, I use it for LMB now. I don't recommend or rate best and worst, but will say I think Pfluegers are an excellent value, have yet to touch MGX. After posting this I just may put my Medalist back into service.

Know where it is but never been there.

Under normal conditions I've never blown the gears on a moderate priced reel, but I have under non normal conditions. I was fishing offshore and did not take one of my better reels, instead I took one of my guest reels, I like all my gear to see action. I had a lengthy battle with a 6' lemon shark, using a cardinal 177. Managed to get the fish in, but my next fish, a bonita fried my reel it just froze up and was trash. Had I been using one of my better reels I'm confident everything would have been fine. Personally I would spend tops of $100 for a freshwater spinner and $200 for a saltwater.

Birmingham and Commerce Township

A governing body makes rules that are going to benefit their sport or competitive activity, imo especially from a sponsors standpoint as the future of any company lies with the recreational user. A state on the other hand makes regulations in hopes of benefiting the entire picture, the fishery,wildlife dependent on lakes and rivers and to the environment as a whole. Question is, should any governing body be allowed to supercede state regulations. As far as the A-rig goes, if it's legal use if you like, if not don't. I don't think it's cheating.

I don't like the give. I was cuda fishing today using both a cuda tube and top water lure and just hated the stretch. I use mono on my cuda outfit as the tubes create too much line twits with braid, the braid is unusable after a while and won't troll out like mono. Bass fishing this afternoon and back with braid, just love it for everything. To each their own.

I've been here full time for 7 years, previously from Michigan. Anything under 75 I'm wearing long underwear and thermal socks now...........haha.

@ Baluga, I'll give you the nod about 832 sinking, it may, I don't know never using it. Using a buoyant lure with any reasonable pause time probably would not affect any lure action that I would be concerned about. The OP is about 30lb braid and topwater, with no specific brand mentioned. I have no problems with any of the brands of braid I'm presently using, employing a variety of techniques and lures, in both fresh and saltwater. At present I have no plans to try 832 or anything else, fishing ( and catching) 7 days a week I've got a good handle on what works for me, I'm quite content with my quantity, quality and variety. The only change I will be making is focusing more on my fly fishing for the species I presently target.

Yep, I agree. Under normal conditions I catch more fish, not just bass, on the drop or pause. The OP was in regards to bass busting bait, I only fish 1 rod and whatever lure I have on catches bass in that situation, no question I'm hoping I have a top lure on then. That is not the case with all species, no need to get into that as the OP is about bass. RW is a good fisherman, knows what he is talking about.

The topic is about braid and top lures. Before responding I put a 15" piece of 30# PP in my fish tank, 1 hour later it's still floating. Using a top lure with braided line, in this case PP, pause or not, the line will not sink. If using a suspended bait, jig or whatever braided line still will not sink, but will be dragged down by the weight of the lure. The question is, will braid absorb water over extended period of time and then sink, give us a report in 3 months for re evaluation.

We use Sea Tow here.

Good points made both pro and con. Being strictly a recreational fisherman I'm out there to have fun, many techniques I don't employ because it isn't fun for me, the A-rig would be one of them. Have I used one, no, but I've used umbrella rigs for ocean stripers and without doubt would prefer using 1 lure for them. I speak only for myself, when it comes to catching bass I'm not about to use heavy rods for fish that on average are not going to be more than 5#. If I happen to hook a bigger one, don't worry I'll get it in and if I don't, so what !,I'm releasing it anyway, I had the fight and that's what I'm there for. What others choose to use is entirely up to them.

On a pause the line will not sink to any significant depth, the lure will always be on top of the water. Even if the line did sink on an extremely long pause, just a normal crank will take up all the slack and have no bearing on the action of the lure.

NE vs San Fran.........winner NE

Between the buoyancy of the lure and moving the bait, I don't think the line would have a chance to sink anyway.

I shutter at the thought of using one but when the bite is slow a senko generally will produce, I've done ok the last few days with one. Glad no one was around, I would have been embarrassed using a worm.....lol.

Drive to the keys, sleep on the beach and go bone fishing.

The few times I've used backing eyeballing has worked just fine, apx 1/2 spool then top off with braid. I would rather just go braid all the way. My freshwater reels do not go thru line, so my braid is on there for at least 2 seasons and it's 12 months here, so it really is not expensive. I go thru a lot of line saltwater, especially around jetties and reefs, barnacles can slice your line in an instant. Straight braid and I add when needed, at times I will turn it over. I don't know what kind of knot I use to join my braid, but it holds...lol.

I use a #7 barrel swivel

The issue isn't the visual, it's getting the braid wrapped around the hooks and that can be a nightmare to untangle. I always use leaders with braid, since I use spinning I never fish heavier than 15#.