cadman

Yes, you can make one for your own personal use. However, you cannot make a mold and sell the mold(s) and or any jigs you make from that mold.

Any jigs made for production for retail, the molds are usually not available to the public. Those are custom made jigs with custom made molds made only for Strike King. If you want a jig similar to that jig head with a different hook, you will have to buy a custom mold. About $300-$500.

I have never heard of this. If you want to use only thread that is fine if you want to use only copper wire that works as well. Copper wire is faster, for silicone skirts. Now if you are going to tie hair jigs or add feathers, than thread is the only thing I would use. Floral wire comes in green color which most copper wire doesn't. You can use either floral wire or copper wire. I prefer copper wire, however in the scope of things, if you fish a lot of jigs, you will lose more than anything else, so in the end it really doesn't matter. Buy what works for you and what is readily available.

Tim, It is easier and quicker to tie with copper wire. PM me your e-mail and I will send you a jig tying tutorial.

Hey Guys Thanks for the links.

I am looking for (6) Stradic C14+ in 2500 model with the Hagane Gear, are you willing to share where you bought your reel for $137? If so you can PM me. Thanks in advance

I will tell you this. I am a die hard Revo user. I have 7 MGX's and 3 Revo Gen 1 Premier baitcasters, and I love everyone of them. The Mgx's are smooth and very light weight. I am in the market for 6 spinning reels for my wife. As much as I like the Revos, I am not going to buy any Abu spinning reels even the MGX, which I believe is a 2016 model and overpriced. I have heard so much negative info on there spinning reels, that I just don't want to deal with it. My next choice is a Shimano Stradic 2500, STCI42500HGFB with the Hagane Gear. I hope I make the right decision, coming from a die-hard Revo MGX user. If you buy the MGX, let me know how you like it.

You can still get the old LTB's until they run out. They are 30% off. I have been getting e-mails from them daily that they still have some rods left. I ordered 4 of them, I got them and they are flawless like I expected. I don't know if they have the model you want, but call them up and you can get it for a good price from the factory.

It looks good to me . I'd fish it.

So, I asked this question in another thread, but I don't want to hi-jack it with a few more questions. I currently use G Loomis NRX rods 803C for my jig fishing and really like it. With that said, I would like to try a St Croix Legend Extreme in a crankbait rod. Mainly for cranking 200-300 Bandits, #5 and #7 Shad Raps, Husky Jerkbaits and occasionally a 3/8 oz Rattle Trap. Would a Legend Extreme model LXC68MHF fit this bill. It's a 6'-8" rod MH, Fast action. I am not a tall person and don't like long rods. I'm not looking for other brands unless it's a G Loomis. Thanks for any help in advance.

For all of you guys switching over to St Croix Legend Extreme, what is the handle material made of? I really like cork, however I am interested in the Extreme series rods?

It works around here really well, especially in real early Spring when the water is still cold. The SR-5 and SR-7 are my favorite, as they have a very tight wobble.

I can tell you this from my own experience, that your project is going to be expensive. First of all like smalljaw mentioned, you will need drawings or a 3d solid model for the machinist to use. In this day and age, since your jigs will have compound surfaces I'm sure a solid model would be preferred. This way if you go to a machine shop, they can use the model to make your mold. I design all my own molds and parts I do at work with a cad package called Solidworks. If you can't produce the model or drawings you will have to pay for that plus the machine time. The problem here is you are not doing production work, so every one of, you are making will be very expensive. If you really have to have this jig, then expect to lay out some money. I have found in fishing, that a certain jig will not be the answer to more fish. Find another jig, and fine tune your skills on that , after all they are only fish. If you want to send me a pic of the jig, I can give you a rough idea of the cost of engineering drawing time would be. Then you can go to a machine shop and ask them as well.

You have a PM

Went out to Delavan Lake yesterday at 6:00 a.m.. Very tough day. Started out throwing topwater and picked up two pike one was 18" and the other was a little over 24". The second one decided not to co-operate and once I measured him he broke my line and took my topwater bait with him. D**n, there goes a $6 bait in the lake. That was all before 7:00 a.m. We fished for another 3 hours and none of my favorite spots produced. Accept for the last one a guide showed me. It was 10 a.m. when we got there and the first 15 minutes I got a 16-1/2" fat bass. 15 minutes later my wife got a 16-3/4" and another 15 minutes she got a 17-1/2"er. We worked this area for about two hours going back and forth and we picked up 3 more fish but lost them at the boat. Everyone we spoke to didn't do well except for the pike which were dominating the lake. Everyone was catching pike. Like they say the fish are biting somewhere on the lake, you just have to find them. Anyway some pics of Delavan's fat bass.

Water was very clear when we went, however fishing was very slow. I plan on going to Delavan this Friday. Hopefully we'll get some bigger fish.

Fished Powers Lake on Sunday. Fishing was very slow and the fish were very small. Got 6 bass and all were between 13-14". All bass were caught on a jig and wacky worm.

Just speculation, but your brass blades have not been clearcoated, and they are tarnishing. With what you described, is that once uncoated brass blades are exposed to the elements, (rain, air temp extremes ie.hot, cold, condensation) your blades are now tarnishing. If they are true brass blades, all you have to do is get some car wax and polish them out. By doing this you will get the luster back. However, you will have to clearcoat your blades with some type of clear epoxy, or spray clear to seal in the finish, otherwise you will be back where you started. I'm surprised they are not clearcoated. Also depends on how much you spent for the blades. Higher quality blades should not have this problem. One other thing, you mention the word rust. If the brass blades have actual rust on them, maybe they were laying on top of something steel and the rust transferred over. If you are using the word rust as, the blades are a dull gray of getting black in color, then that is tarnish, just some more info for you.

What do you mean by rust? If you bought cheap steel blades, then yes they will rust if not left out to dry thoroughly. However, if you bought nickel blades, or brass blades they will not rust. Nickle plated blades are brass blades with nickle plating over them. Brass blades are usually clearcoated. These blades may tarnish but I never seen them rust. On your current ones you can polish them and spray clearcoat over them, that should stop the rusting, or clean them really well and paint them. Do you have any pics of the blades you are having problems with?

I launch out of River City Marina which is on the south end of the river by the dam. You pay at the marina lock box and park on the street. It is $10 to launch. The only problem is that the launch is steep, and my boat trailer has to go in deep, otherwise my boat won't slide off. Same problem retrieving it. Launching out of River City Marina naturally is on the river, so you will have a longer no wake ride in the morning. However, it is much better than the DNR ramp, and I've never gotten stuck on the river. There is also another launch across from the river and across from the marina by the library. Very good launch, I believe it is free, however it doesn't open until 8 or 9 :00 am, by that time I have already been fishing for several hours. The lake at the north end in my opinion has the best fishing, however many guys do really well on the river.

I fished Eagle Lake this week is S.E Wisconsin. This lake continues to disappoint and I will not go there anymore. 2 years ago, my buddy and I tried it several times and every time we've gone there the results were poor. We tried mornings with no boat traffic and evenings as well. This last week kind of put the last nail in the coffin. My wife and I started fishing there at 5:00 am. I got my first fish about 5:30 am. which was a respectable 15-1/2 " largie. For the next 5 hours nothing. Water inside the buoys was 2'0 and real weedy and the trolling motor would get wrapped with weeds. Water further outside of the weeds was 5'0, but that was where all the skiers were. Towards the end of the day, I got 2 really small bass. After talking to a couple of guys on the water, there is only one spot where there is any structure on the lake and water drops out to 11' max, and that was where I got my first fish. Also as the day wore on, there must have been 20 boats all in the same spot, which stretches about 200 yards. talking to some of these guys, they said that is the best part of the lake, however when you put 20 boats there it is too crowded.

I'm glad you liked it. I fish there 2-3 times per year, and there are days when you can load up on 20+ fish per day in one spot. The bass school there heavily. You definitely need to hit it in spring and late fall. My wife got her personal best out of there 6.2 lb largemouth.

If you are looking exclusively for the Poison Tail mold, you will have to invest in two molds, or buy the other size jig from someone else. Do-It is by far the biggest mold company to date, and the only one that sells the Poison Tail mold. Hilts is another mold company but they don't have as big as a selection, and they don't have the Poison Tail mold.

I have a 2007, 619VS like the boat in the pic. Yes it is a problem on some ramps, and it is the muti-species boat. I only know of one lake I use, that I have to take the spare off before I launch the boat. It is a P.I.T.A, however, since it is one lake I deal with it. The problem with leaving the spare off, is #1 it looks dumb with out the spare and the bracket showing, and #2 the (3) mtg. studs that the spare mounts to sticks out from the trailer, causing you to rip open your knees or your shins. I wish that Ranger would have come up with a better solution for that series boats.

Glad it all worked out. BTW I was out of ideas after this anyway. Good Luck