Delaware Valley Tackle

That’s probably from the way the trip mechanism is made. Just be sure the roller is on top and it should work fine. In general, the Kastking offerings give you a little more reel for the money in the budget reels.

The blank diameter itself might stretch the Eva enough to mitigate the size difference.

The SLX xt is reminiscent of the e series, seti and forget it dependable work horse but not unrefined.

Could be any number of things. Do a deep clean being sure everything is clean and that all bearings are thoroughly flushed, dried and spin tested. A good bearing spins easily, quietly and comes to rest gradually. If this is not the case, replace bearings as needed. I’ve never thrown them out due strictly to age. Make sure the AR clutch is clean. Make sure the spool shaft it straight, the rim is not dinged and frame races are clean.

Not just tight. You need backing, mono or tape for the braid to grab.

Yes but the “right” lubricant is just appropriate for the application. Nothing specialized or expensive will do anything for you. It’s snake oil (no pun intended) in most cases. You’re not doing any harm if spending the extra gives peace of mind, just letting readers know its totally unnecessary and not to stress over it.

Beyond making sure the pawl cap is tight, you’re looking at a bad pawl and or worm gear. Warranty it.

The reels performance is not dictated to a large degree by what lubricants you use. Keeping the reel clean and serviced is much more important. There is no magic in any lubricant and in the grand scheme of things, a reel is not a demanding application.

I haven’t read the whole thread but there is something ch a thing as tie-able wire for pike leaders.

That’s definitely not bearing noise. More over, fast spinning the handle doesn’t tell you anything.

Have you adjusted the spool tension to take slack out? Does the reel make noise when held in normal operating position?

Did you remove the dc module to service the spool bearing? If so, I’d take take it down again reassemble via the schematic going slowly and make everything is firmly seated. When reattaching the dc start each screw and tighten them a little at a time to be sure it stays seated flush. This kind of thing isn’t unheard of. Lots of times I’ve taken reels apart several times and call of a sudden it works again never knowing what exactly was out of whack.

Do not touch the DC system. There’s something else not seated, aligned or oriented correctly. I’d tell you if I had any way of knowing what exactly is out of place. Because the spool tension is loose.

Click one of my logos on the forum they are links to my site where there is an email form or email directly at mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com or call 973-459-2835.

It sounds like a light cleaning would keep you trion going. If you’re up to tackle it I’ll offer whatever help I can. Don’t throw the reel away. Worst case I’ll give you a little something as a parts reel.

Any issues keeping smallmouth pinned with the MLXF?

See the pinned thread by road warrior. Still holds true today

There’s no definitive, clear cut answer to your question. The answer changes when comparing across brands, currencies , generations etc

The revo winch and Daiwa crazy cranker fall into that category as deep cranking reels. You have bfs models in some lineups, the Daiwa long cast zillions for heavy baits come to mind. In the broader picture I think versatility is more of a concern for reels than technique specific niche reels.

We are 100% open , up and running full steam. If you seen or heard anything to cause doubt please let me know so I can address it. I can be reached through my website with several links throughout the forum www.delawarevalleytackle.com, phone at 973-459-2835, pm here and messenger on Facebook & Instagram. Pretty much anything beyond smoke signals. Lol Let me know how I can help.

A 4000 size reel is overkill for bass fishing unless you dislike casting gear and need something for heavier (10-12#) mono/fluoro.

There are two very close. One is a casting rod on an original Rodgeeks c473 MHXS. The soft tip and good backbone are a unique and versatile mix. My favorite was not on a high end blank but fished great. It was an MHx 6’9” MLxf DS blank with a Tennessee handle on carbon fiber tube. It had my Minima guides and an Alconite tip top. The experiment of the spinning rod was to build a high performance rod on a budget. Both have since been sold to customers.

High performance and high durability rarely if ever go together in rod blanks. Point blank rods are on my short list to try.

If you’re using heavy 10#> mono/fluoro then ya go with a 4000. Otherwise 2500 is perfect for bass applications. If you want to multi species bringing pike, carp, stripers etc into the equation that’s a whole other thread.

I just have trouble visualizing the length, other than handle length being an issue in a kayak but not otherwise.