Delaware Valley Tackle

I think the Chronarch badge has struggled since the Curado G debacle, where shimano tried to structure the lineup like it was in the B and D where the Curado was the work horse, Citica a little more affordable, the Chronarch more refined. But the public got spoiled by the Curado E. We’ve come to expect more refinement in the Curado name than the workhorse tank that was the B. Personally, I liked when shimano and Daiwa each had 4-5 low profile bait cast reels and each was a meaningful step up. I think there’s that many tatulas alone today.

A med or mh mod/fast possibly labeled as a crankbait rod sounds like it would fit your criteria.

Back in the day we used sewing machine oil.

I look at this similarly. ISO hydraulic oils have all the rust and corrosion resistance additives needed. They are inexpensive and readily available. ISO 10 is in a lot of shops in the form of air tool oil. ISO 22= 10w motor oil, 68= 30wt , 220= 50wt or 90wt gear oil. Just for reference what someone might have laying around.

NFC does that as do jewelers , auto parts retailers etc. common practice. It’s not deceptive unless they hook you with a sale price then try to get “list” price.

If the bait and cover permit, any walleye and finesse bass tackle should be interchangeable

In the grand scheme of things screen isn’t really a heavy duty application lubricant wise. All the products mentioned are good. I like yamalube or similar marine grease for the extra water resistance and Cals for drags where appropriate. Boca Lightning and tsi321 for spool bearings with heavy gear oil for frame bearings, level wind and sliding parts

Remember, hard core anglers like us here on the forum are a small fraction of the overall tackle purchasing market. Quantum and Zebco are recognized brands by the public at large for whom a $30 reel is sufficient.

The more filler the cork has the more it benefits from sealer. Protecting your equipment is never a bad idea.

Daiwa’s zero adjust spool tension is predicated on a magnetic brake system being linear enough to allow free spool tension. That’s not to say they don’t require user input (thumbing etc). Yes, your skill and technique may allow other reels to be setup similarly but that isn’t the manufacturers intent. “Gimmick” is a little harsh but the marketing as a feature is over the top.

It’s not critical if you’re not locking the drag down, which I discourage. But there are spring washers to consider as well. Loosening the drag can’t hurt and is good practice to be in the safe side. You should pull some drag before fishing to be sure nothing is stuck.

Saying is better than the other across the board is like saying a wrench is better than a screwdriver. Each tool has its time and place.

I agree the VSS is a winner but have you looked at the AmTack aero palm swell spinning seat? Love them too.

SCIV but yes, they’re Croix blanks for all intents. The Bass 4 are just select powers and actions suggested for common bass applications. They’re all good.

2 guys in a small craft, snagged another rod on the back cast and let her rip. Mono line ended up in a birds nest that nearly reached the spool depth. That was my one and only cut-off backlash.

You want a long rod 7’> to aid casting and landing fish.

I made one from an old chalk line. Its compact works well. It doesn’t help if you throw it in the trees on the bank though. Or so I’ve heard.

I have to agree with your definition of BFS. Many MH casting rods are rated 1/4-3/4oz.

Lol. No, you’ll the dexterity of a surgeon, imagination of an engineer and patience of a saint.

And it never ends. Have you been into one of the new shimano spinning AR assemblies yet? I was stringing together curse words in some very creative ways.

I’m not one to discourage DIY if you’re up to it. I take plenty of calls helping folks through their projects. But in the words of “Dirty” Harry Callahan, “A man’s gotta know his limitations.”lol Getting fully or partially disassembled reels isn’t ideal but it’s not a deal breaker for me and you wouldn’t be the first or last. Hit me up for whatever level of help you may require.

A lot of blanks contain more than one modulus of carbon fiber and they can be and often are, marketed as being a super high modulus blank when only a fraction of the material is in fact that high modulus. Mandrels, scrim, resins, processes all affect the quality of a blank. Design and components absolutely have an affect on the finished rod. I’ve seen it first hand more than once. Obviously a Berkeley cherry wood and St Croix LTB are using vastly different materials and the higher modulus one is obvious. No reasonable person would argue that point. But if trusted brand x claims 40million modulus and unknown brand y claims 48 or even 54 there’s no guarantee they’re better or even as good. Could they be? Sure. Depending on the variables mentioned. It just doesn’t mean nearly as much as some would have you believe.

If you’d like contact me I’ll give you a quote and at least guide you through the process

That response is a cut and paste from an online article. That doesn’t make it inaccurate, just not specific to their rods. Modulus is misunderstood and over emphasized by marketers and consumers alike. There’s much more that goes into a quality rod. Any modulus info that may have given you means little in evaluating the rods potential performance.

Just a film of light oil. Never grease. Keeping the brake cone clean by swabbing with alcohol also keeps them working and quiet