Delaware Valley Tackle

The brand and type of grease for use on reels is given way too much significance. The single most important thing is to do regular maintenance and keep things clean and lubricated with something appropriate. The feel of a new reel has little to do with the type(s) of grease used. Shimano bantam drag grease works well on both drags and gears. It’s similar to Cals. Personally, I’ve pretty much settled on marine grease for gears, Cals for drags that require it, gear oil for frame bearings, level wind and sliding parts, Lighting Lube or air tool oil for spool bearings. Tsi321 in tuned reel spool bearings. Ps: I’m not giving the OP hell, lol. You’re not doing any harm by tinkering and experimenting but I hate to see you or anyone following stress over this.

If the guides are rusty, damaged or wraps are compromised replacement makes sense. No need to replace good guides to get a match. Especially since your wraps won’t likely be aesthetically appealing first few tries. There are cases where a rod can be brought alive by updating the guide train but you need rod building experience or advice to make that determination.

Best guess yet.

There’s nothing serviceable in the DC module. If you’re suspicious of it after it dries, I’d spray it down with electronics cleaner rather than disassembling it. I think you’ll be ok though.

I’m a proponent of Carbontex drags in general. Replacing felt is a no brainer.

I don’t think it’s ever necessary to loosen the drag after every trip. As for the Steez, if memory serves that came with Carbon fiber drag and is a 3 piece kit. I’ve upgraded them because the Carbontex weave is a little different and it’s an inexpensive upgrade.

Daiwa frags are typically part carbon with the lower washer being a hard pressed material. Stock is sufficient but the upgrade is inexpensive and provides a long lasting drag that is smooth and predictable.

Some do, some don’t, some use a combination.

It sure won’t hurt anything, but I don’t see it as critical. If I made a top ten list of reel care tips loosening drag after every trip wouldn’t make the list. If you’re one to lock drags down, which I discourage but I know is done, and you store for long periods I’d back them off. Especially if you have a shimano with the non carbon washers.

The hard part is removing the pin from the spool without damaging anything. Unless something is damaged or corroded there’s no need to change out everything. The two spool bearings maybe will be an improvement but it’s minimal after cleaning and flushing them. I have bearings in stock if you want them or I can install them for you.

Are you working with a builder yet? They should be able to answer these questions but will need more details about the application. If someone recommends a blank without asking questions about the rods intended use, run.

If you want to try to save it, I’ll fill and smooth the damage with structural epoxy then wrap and finish. It could last a while or forever.

Saving or making money are the worst reasons to get into rod building. At some point in the journey you may achieve one or both but you’re not likely to succeed or last if that’s your sole motivation. I have a few factory rods but they’re relegated to loaners for the most part

Ya the only thing that makes a saltwater reel is corrosion resistant materials and in some cases water intrusion prevention

I can’t speak with certainty on that specific rod, but I can tell you I use ML spinning rods in cover and with hooks that would make you shake your head. You should be fine if the hook is sharp.

Thank you for the compliments. I really strive to give value for my services. For the OP, value or “is it worth it” depends on your personal perspective. No, it’s not brain surgery but there are pit falls, and it takes time. Currently, I get $26.95 for a deep cleaning which is anywhere from an hr to 90min of work. I also now offer an Econo-clean service for lighter used reels and the budget minded for $18. I offer a reservation service to meet hard deadlines with quick turnaround, primarily for trips, tournaments etc but also for people in warmer climates that fish year round. I post tips here and take lots of calls with diy questions if someone needs help. There are lots of videos and pages online. Some are good, some not so much, and others just plain terrible. Hopefully, in the future I’ll have more formal DIY support offerings but there just enough hrs in the day right now. If you’re reading this and have questions or need help/advice let me know and do my best for you.

I think that’s a result of being under the same umbrella with multiple other brands.

They just aren’t built to super tight tolerances and the basic design lends itself to some sound once broken in. A few weeks in and you’ll be right in the same boat (no pun intended). None of this means in any way that’s it’s not a quality reel. You just have to keep your expectations within reason. The expectations and demands for eternally silent, butter smooth bass reels at mid range prices is largely unrealistic. Of course there are outliers, and I fully expect numerous responses with their own experience with a favorite brand / model.

Putting new gears in that is throwing away money imo.

I think the solution lies more with the stop than the reel. The little slip on stops I use are tiny and tapered. They’ll tick but don’t usually hang up. I would be bomb castin though. A little nail knot of braid around the line is slim and works too. Just add a small bead in front of the float. Baitcasters are popular with western river float fishers. Google some of that for more ideas.

Line counter or fill the spool then walk off the extra.

Low ratio reels shine with high resistance baits: deep cranks, big Colorado blade spinners, certain big swim baits etc

Not at all. Only saying to be sure that overall the spool is filled to just below the rim bevel. I run 67yds or 200’ (2 long casts) of mainline in most cases

I believe the golf adage of drive for show, putt for dough applies to fishing. Accuracy is more important than raw distance casting. I don’t have a reel that won’t allow me to cast as far as I’d care to set a hook. I’ve got quite an eclectic collection.

Don’t get sucked into vortex of longest casting reels. Reels don’t cast at all. The best ones just don’t hinder casting as much as others. There’s lots of variables that affect casting distance. It’s common for new features to be introduced in higher end models then trickle down.