Delaware Valley Tackle

The KR rapid choke is my go to as well. 20H/10H/5.5m runners….. I have used the Microwave set from AmTack and they perform very well too. They are a no brainer to setup , perfect for newer builders imo.

Welcome. Where in NY? I’m in CNY, Mohawk Valley between Albany and Syracuse.

Northern don’t want to post a reply, there are just too many variables. $550 give or take for a rough estimate. Shipping is another variable based on location, packaging etc. for a good estimate provide the following: rod type (spin, cast , fly etc) and length if known. application/technique/species/lure weights grip preferences: material, full vs split any special requests (color, theme, etc) I do a preliminary quote, a follow up phone call (1 or more as needed) to answer questions and discuss options, send a formal quote with all details, once accepted request 50% down pmt, build is scheduled, upon completion balance is billed, rod ships upon receipt of payment. it sounds like a bit of a process, and it is by design. You’re paying for the builder’s expertise, advice and craftsmanship and deserve the extra attention. Let me know if you or anyone reading has any questions about my process or custom rods in general. Thanks Mike mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com

Building a rod as good or better is definitely within possibility. Be cause you’re talking about a hand crafted item from a small business don’t expect cast saving among your buying decisions. Each builder has their own pricing criteria. Email me if you’d like a quote and to discuss options.

Bulldogs ideas are good ones but it’s impossible to diagnose with certainty with such vague information. Keep us posted on your progress.

Too quick of a hookset is a myth. If they want it you couldn’t be quick enough to pull it away. It yes a mod fast rod can double as a jig/worm and crank rod. It depends on the specific rod as there’s no industry standard for power or action ratings

Upgrade to Carbontex and don’t look back. Pretty sure I have a kit in stock.

I use the st Croix M XF 6’8” as a go to for jerkbait rods

There’s no need grease a carbon drag in a bass reel especially a baitcaster. Cals tan is the best choice for felt, dartanium etc wet drags. As for the rest, marine grease for gears, gear oil in frame bearings, level wind and sliding parts. Light oil in spool bearings: bantam, Remoil, light hydraulic oil all work.

I agree that your ERN is in the neighborhood. Also, it’s the combination of power (ERN) and action that deliver the end result (lure range& butt power). I think you’re ok. Micks right , worst case you have another rod and an excuse to build yet another.

The zillion gives you epilepsy?

Sounds like it’s time for a deep clean and proper lubrication. Let me know if you’d like to send it in or have any questions. Anyone can send whatever you have at your convenience. Details are on our website.

My personal stance on any second hand tackle is that I won’t pay more than 70% of retail for a pristine piece and work backwards from there. The “geary reel” complaints online are often overblown for lots of models. Misdiagnoses, poor or lacking maintenance, rough use etc are some variables. Any value question comes down to what it’s worth to YOU.

That’s technically correct but bfs spools are so shallow you couldn’t get any real difference.

You can’t slap just any gear set into a reel. The gears would need to come from a reel with the same frame (center to center distance, height and pinion length). What’s the IPT of the reel as it sits? Ratio doesn’t offer any real mechanical advantage unless you’re pulling deep cranks etc. otherwise it’s just preference which is fine.

I do t think there’s a way to save the soft touch coating. You’ll probably have to strip it like you’ve tried. Magic eraser is a mild abrasive that might work well. Otherwise you’ll need a solvent. Go slow and keep it off anything else. Clean with soap and water after.

All I see is a slow action rod nothing earth shattering. Slower rods don’t store and deliver any more power or rip speed for further casts. They compensate for poor casting mechanics in the form of inconsistent release point. Conversely, fast actions have higher tip speed but are less forgiving.

You can’t know the size unless you know the handle length

It depends on the size of your hand what you feel is comfortable. Seats are cheap enough to buy 16mm and 17mm and see which you like better for this rod. Blank diameter doesn’t figure in unless you use an exposed blank seat in which case it’s sized to the diameter where it will sit on the blank

Look for a revo or Pflueger spool. Check brake type

Jb weld won’t flow and level out. Epoxy finish isn’t structural. Clear nail polish is the easiest diy and works well. Thread wraps should be tight enough that you can budge the wrapped guide with firm finger pressure.

Try to salvage the tip top and reinstall it or buy a replacement. Some local tackle shops will do a tip top replacement if you’re hesitant to diy.

7’> MLXF. Depending on weight of jig. The middle of the posted range is usually the sweet spot. Don’t bust your budget but invest in a good rod.

You don’t need the special equipment but here’s the general idea. Use a cardboard box with v notches n run the thread thru book for tension. we can’t post links. Just google wrapping rod guides

My all time favorite is the core 51 Mg7. Closely followed by the Curado 51e, 201e.