Delaware Valley Tackle

I can likely build you something better and custom fit to you within budget. Email me with some likes and dislikes and a quote for you.

AJ has the right idea. Rod and reel should compliment one another in feel, quality and budget. I’d skew the budget toward the rod for bottom “feel” presentation and the reel for moving baits. Pairing one quality piece of tackle with something subpar isn’t efficient budget wise, enjoyment wise or presentation wise.

The most beneficial aspect of increased free spool is accuracy resulting from less force being needed to cast. Casting distance is affected by too many variables to attribute a significant, constant gain across applications. I’ve super tuned and installed ceramic hybrid bearings in a lot of reels and never seen one get wild or uncomfortable. In fact I’ve had feedback and experience to the opposite. Tuned reels tend to backlash less because of the reduced force required. Many if not most before and after comparisons are made without flushing and oiling the stock bearings. That alone makes a noticeable improvement. If you spun the clean bearings and they were fast, quiet and came to rest smoothly, changing them probably won’t cure your problem. Check that the brake inductors are free and working smoothly and spool tension is not too loose.

The quality of budget reels has improved significantly, and especially over the last 10 yrs. Still, $70 in 2000 is $100> now.

Message me here, call, email and I’ll answer any questions you may have.

Maybe expectations need to be tempered. The Tatula is a workhorse reel. Not all sound is “noise” and some can be expected especially after some use. Just because you can’t see squeeze out doesn’t necessarily mean a reel is “dry” either. I’m going to reach out and see what Daiwa has to say on this. I wouldn’t recommend anyone opening a brand new reel. If it can’t be used out of the box return it.

You need to evaluate the level of damage. It’s really easy to make a bad matter worse, aesthetically and structurally. It’s hard to patch spots and have them blend in. Permagloss is a urethane finish for rods. It’s hot and sometimes not kind to certain paints.

Whoa guys. Ease up on the technique specific rods. You’ll put me out of business. Lol

Don’t think in terms of correct or not, everyone has an opinion and there’s degrees of “better”. You’ve got enough rods to cover the main techniques of bass fishing.

The Bantam is designed for exactly what you’re looking for. The bullet proof tank like a round reel in a Low profile design

I get that it’s a warranty covered issue but if you want to save the hassle and wait, any epoxy adhesive will work fine. Devcon, Gorilla, etc. keep glue off the barrel threads and clean up with alcohol.

The lure weight range looks good. No one casts more than a musky angler so don’t worry about fatigue. Species specific labels are just suggestions and mostly just marketing. Short answer to the OP is Yes

I don’t know either. My point was just that the person involved should have the opportunity to answer the question to his customers satisfaction. I don’t know anyone that’s never made a mistake at work and would want the details published.

Everyone deserves the benefit of the doubt. It Could have been an honest mistake. I’d hate get thrown under the bus if that’s the case.

On paper the mojo is the “better” rod. Personally I like the XF so win win, but that’s for where and how I fish.

Not to beat a dead horse but Medium power is subjective. Lately l lean toward blanks labeled as ML. The important thing is that it will cast and present the baits you plant to throw, where you plan to throw them. Bait weight, then cover.

Pm sent

That’s for the handle probably between star and handle. Look inside the old star and see if there’s a pressure washer stuck in it. Sometimes they stick with the grease. Make sure the new star is the same shape inside. Call me if you need to.

You’re a 1099 paid by the piece?

Some big bass have been caught while crappie or panfish fishing. However, I suggest you build a combo to effectively fish the baits you want to use and call it bfs, power finesse, redneck spinning, goober casting or whatever you like. 😆

Tubes and grubs still get bit with regularity. A mod or mod fast action aids keeping fish pinned but you can 100% land fish on a crank bait with a fast action medium power.

Just don’t get roped in by one of the knock off systems that have sprung up. CCS is the system

The only ratio reel with a mechanical advantage is a 5:1 for deep cranks, big Colorado spinners and other high resistance baits. All the rest are personal preference. In my case I like faster reels for taking slack if a fish runs a jig etc strait me or getting a buzz bait on plane. The fast retrieve for more casts in a day idea is one I’m not sold on. Ymmv

Ccs objectively measures power and action without subjective terms like mh etc. The vast majority of rod companies don’t use it for reasons we can only speculate on. There are some data bases online that individuals have complied but even the best is far from comprehensive.

They’re a good all around reel. Long casting doesn’t translate to light weight or bfs casting.