S Hovanec

One of my BC rods is nothing but BLAG4 guides, stripper to tip. The last couple for customers, I used all BKTAG 4.5

Yea, maybe 0°,45°,90°,135°,180. That would give a smooth transition.

That is correct. Typically only happens when heavy loads are retrieved. On this musky build, you can see what I posted about up in my first post. This rod is used to cast and retrieve lures in excess of 16oz. If the stripper guide was placed at 0, the line would stack up on the right side of the reel. By offsetting it left, the right side of the guide ring is at the centerline of the rod, allowing for even line distribution to the reel. On my bass builds, I don't even transition around with guides. The stripper is at 0 and the next guide is at 180. The line touches the blank, but I haven't noticed any ill effects.

No, put it at 0°.....On top of the rod. On some really heavy builds, to eliminate line stacking, I've actually put the first guide somewhat on the negative side. I'll line up the edge of the first guide with the center of the reel, opposite the direction I'm transitioning.

Not worth it to me. The way I lose DS weights, I'd spend more money on weights in a day than I do on gas for the boat.

Never a wrong time for a custom!!!

When you're dropping $800+ on a combo, you're not sacrificing any performance at all to match the rod and reel.

Red white and black look good together. I did a couple white rods last year. One wrapped in candy apple red with black trim and one wrapped in black with red metallic trim. Any black/red reel would be perfect on them.

I am THAT particular . Not many colors other than black, silver or gold go with the blue/green paint job on the SCV blanks. IMO, the red on a CI4 looks ridiculous on a scv. Kinda like a Christmas themed setup.

Look for a discontinued CI4. They should be in your price range. I picked up a 3000 for under $150 when they went on clearance.

St Croix's medium is pretty powerful compared to other brands. Power wise, it would be good for topwater, but its too short for my preference.

Yes, you or a rod builder can fix a loose reelseat.

The quest for super light reels can make the lightest rod feel tipheavy too. I have a NFC DS rod that is under 3oz and it feels nicer with my Stradic Mg 2500 than with my CI4 2500.

I'm with DVD on the micros. I've never replaced one on a rod I built.

People need to use common sense when executing a warranty claim for a broken guide too. Ok, pay $25 or more to send it back plus whatever the company's processing fee is to have a $10 repair done. A lot of times, they will send you the guide and you can have it done locally. I understand the reelseat issue. Ive seen many broken or loose ones. I will refrain on commenting on the point of origin of all of those rods tho.

If you haven't broke one in a year, then there is no defect in material or workmanship. If you break it after a few uses, its operator error.

I'd buy it if it only had a 1 year warranty. If it doesn't blow up in the first outing or 2, then there's not a defect in material or workmanship.

I'd start by contacting Delaware Valley Tackle.

Color is pretty inportant when the rod you plan on building doesnt play into the red scheme of a CI4. I only put 50 yards of braid on my reels, so capacity isn't that important to me. I'm planning on getting the high gear shallow spool 2000. Think I'll be ordering next month.

First impressions of the reel? Getting ready to pull the trigger on one myself.

Personally, I wouldn't waste the money rewrapping a carrot stick. Replace the guides that are broke and fish the rod til it breaks. It shouldn't be long til that happens. There aren't many unbroken ones left.

Friction isn't the problem, its the weight of the extra 4 guides on the important end of the rod that is of concern.

14 guides on a 7'6" is ridiculous and absolutely unnecessary. 9 or 10 is all that rod requires.

Typically, More than people are willing to pay. Many times, more than the rod is worth. Strip and rewrap an entire rod, probably $12-$15 per guide plus the cost of the guide. Placing the new guides back in the same spot really isn't optimal either. They should be placed where needed, which can leave some ugly spots on the blank where the old guides were.

I agree with HEAVY rods. Its not hard to keep the line off of the blank when the bottom of the guide ring is 1/2" to 3/4" high. The bottom of the ring on a 4mm Alconite is 1/16" or less off the blank.