flechero

If your argument is against the money, I'm with you but if it's against the "bass boat" I'll defend it. ...lol The traditional bass boat is a great solution for a lot of people. For a single purpose boat with one angler, and most often used in "good" weather conditions... you are absolutely correct. Your boat is the perfect solution. (and cool looking!) I'd love it as a second boat. I don't fall into the one angler, single purpose and I certainly don't get to pass on a 20mph wind days for a 5 mph wind days. I often have multiple anglers standing/walking around. We fish crowded and often rough water regularly. And my wife certainly likes the ride quality of a heavier glass hull. And since I fish most of the time I'm out, I rarely burn more than a gallon or two a day... Oh, and I'm the original owner of this 1994 champion... it's fishing just as nicely as it did 15 years ago (15 years this week, actually- happy birthday to my boat!!) and it seems like it might have another 15 years worth of life left to give. -keith

To do it right, is one of the most difficult repairs there is. And in 99.9% of the cases the finished product is NOT the same action or feel. So unless it's a real expensive rod or something with a bunch of sentimental value, either replace it or just glue a tip on the end and use it for spinnerbaits or something.

That means you were almost perfect... something was just a tad off or they (some of them) would have bitten. Maybe you were a little too fast or slow, perhaps you just needed to kill it at some point in the retrieve, etc.

One of the best lessons I was ever taught was never to identify a person by occupation. It is all to rare that a person actually matches up with our own jaded illusion of what a ________ would be like.

I think this is the difference between a tackle junkie and a hoarder... true tackle junkies, myself included, use it all... and appreciate it's every use. I agree 100% with Catt's rule but that's not what this is about. Being a tackle enthusiast and a good stick are completely independent of one another. I'll fish head to head with a mid 80's lightning rod and a second hand $30 abu reel... and still hang with most worm fishermen here. But the enjoyment I get out of a perfectly balanced, featherlight custom rod/50 MG combo is an experience in itself. Neither are wrong, just different.

I think your MH,F will work fine... I used to use my MBR844c IMX as my fluke & senko rod... I'm inbetween dedicated rods at the moment but have a MB783 RX7 being built for that task.

if you can't see the sufix, you won't see the yo-zuri either. If you don't want to try braid, maybe XT is an option... it's got a milky/chalky look compared to the really clear lines.

Lots of the "well seasoned" builders use them... I see their comments with some frequency on RBO.

It only takes one day who wants to pay for a red label. ...lol

No problems for me. No issues with topwater.

We used to use slug-go's t-rigged, before there were flukes and wacky rigged, before there was the senko. In wacky rigging, they are like a senko that doesn't tear.

Do you remember which seller and size? I was looking at them just now and they seem to have no sizing consistency. Some say up to 5" and some said 5" and larger but not "slim" versions, etc. I just didn't know which was the best size. One guy had the tool pls 100 lg and 100 sm rings for like $10.

just wondering where you guys get your o-rings for wacky rigging? Is the little tool worth buying or can you just slide them on without it? Thanks

I also had a 785... it's not what you want. (it's a fabulous rod but not for your stated needs.) As for the BCR that roadwarrior mentioned, it's probably a fantastic rod (I haven't used that one) but I think the XF action is less versatile given the range of uses CT wants this rod to fill. But RW is right, it would make a super, dedicated jig rod.

Your story has happened to all of us that preach retying often.... we were as stubborn as you before we lost large/nice catches. Seriously, it takes about 30 seconds to cut and retie.

According to my ophthalmologist, there is a significant difference in high quality glass vs. plastic and other inferior glass lenses. Good glasses cost less than almost any rod or reel I have... so for less than half the cost of one rod/reel combo, I won't risk my eyes to cheap glasses. Besides, once you have a good pair, the cheap ones will never do again. The optical quality is so much better.

I think so. But after you try it, if you don't think so- you can always short spool the reel by 20-30 yards and still have plenty of line and a lower effective ratio.

I've used all 4 rods on your list... I think the 843 is great & might have been my recommendation but since you seem to have carefully considered your water and the fact that you want the heavier side of versatility, go with the 844. (especially since you have the spinning rod for lighter stuff) I also like the 784 a lot but for a shore bound angler with a vegetation issue, that extra 6" will come in handy, not to mention the 844 is much more versatile.

What a great place! I'm jealous.

Use a bazooka or pvc and sleeve the rods in rod socks. Anything else is risky. I also have one of the soft padded carriers but with reels at both ends, it bends a lot in the middle and you need full length support... and if you had an area like that, you wouldn't need the carrier. ...lol

that's the "OTHER" orange rod, right? ...lol I agree with you (either of our set ups will pull double duty just fine) but was emphasizing the personal preference part of it.

Heck with a sticky... there is a search tab and a quick search box at the top of everyone's page already... half of the problem is that people are lazy, the other half is that people think that they will get a different answer if they ask it... and if they don't they throw another qualifier in to see if they do. ...lol

I'm pretty sure you'll re-think that one in a day or two. ...lol

Then I wouldn't worry with "the most sensitive" rod.... haven't seen a rod yet that wasn't sensitive enough for cranking- glass rods included. If you really want this for cranking then look at moderate and mod-fast actions. RW, This is a classic case of preference.... I had the (2C70MHM) MH mod St. Croix and i felt like it was too light for any big cranks. My current 7' H, mod-fast will handle small, light cranks better for me than my 7' MH, mod handled the big stuff. So for me the H, mod-fast was the better choice for all cranking. (and lipless baits)

What you guys aren't arguing is the ability of the angler to decipher what he feels. While using braid and tungsten will telegraph more "info" to the angler... often times this sensory overload simply causes a guy to set hook into brush and lumber more frequently. ...lol Braid is a tool, and no one tool is right for every job. If it were such a simple argument, no angler would ever win a tournament with mono. For that matter, they wouldn't even be competitive.