flechero

Congratulations!!!! Our prayers for a safe and healthy pregnancy and delivery! I'm just over a year ahead of you (ours is 5 months old) What a ride! Enjoy it because it goes by so fast... seems like last week we found out my wife was pregnant.

I used to use the Owner straight shanks but switched to these some years ago... Owner 5102 or 5302 (difference in packaging) These aren't straight shanks but they have the point way above the line so you get the best of both worlds with less hang ups, IMO.

I've heard so many "my spot" controversies at weigh ins, that it wears me out. No one owns a spot, or a brush pile once it's wet. And no one has any more right to fish any spot over another. Whether you find em on the graph or you saw someone over there some time before and happen to find it, it makes no difference. And anyone who says they have never investigated a spot they saw another fish is either withholding the truth or has a poor memory. ...lol :-X If a spot or pile is "open" when you arrive, fish it with no guilt.

Any savings depends... on whether or not you count your time and if you can buy at wholesale. I've found that you generally spend about the same but are able to upgade components and do more. for example, for the retail price of a Loomis IMX, I can build a much nicer rod and use titaium SiC guides and exotic burl cork, etc and have a little money left over. Not to mention it's spiral wrapped and built exactly how I want it. Loomis, St. Croix and some other big names blanks are marked at a high retail price so savings is usually small... but if you use some other blanks, you can build some great rods for a big savings.

The closest thing I have to a panic box is the boat's cooler... and I don't panic unless it's empty. :

Yup, that aged him.... in about 1 second flat. ...lol

Sounds like you need to start investing "locally".... get an *** tub.

I have an opinion on the exceller... A good buddy bought one and it was a great reel at first but didn't make it a full year. Granted he's a little rough on equipment but all his other reels still work fine. In your price range, I'd look at the Citica E and Revo S depending on which applications this reel will serve.

own a drill? ;D

As long as you keep in contact with the bottom, the way you drag has little effect on things... but in cases where bites are soft and subtle, that earlier post suggesting you to only move bait with the reel, will cost you some fish. I don't know about you but I feel a lot more when I'm not reeling. To stay on topic, I'm probably a 60/40 side dragger... we have a few bluff like areas that I fish up and down as well as when "tree topping" it's vertical for me. We tree top a lot for suspenders.

I've been told that Loomis stuff is protected by a pricing agreement so you can't usually find a sale (at least not an authorized one). Occasionally I'll see a free shipping offer but that's about it. Here are 3 places to look... there are others but these 3 are known to me. American Legacy http://www.gloomis.us/ mud hole http://www.mudhole.com/ custom tackle http://www.customtackle.com/

If you really want it, you'll probably use it... besides, one extra rod isn't going to help or hurt the illness!

Reel line capacities are there for a volume reference. The line's strength is almost irrelevant since you will have your drag set.

I'm using #20 XT. I have tried the CXX for a few spools worth and I just can't like it in the #20 and up... it makes XT feel as supple as braid. Now in fairness, I haven't used it in hot weather yet. But, my 8" hudds will self retrieve on cxx once I straighten out on the coils on the initial retrieve. ;D I won't even suggest you take my advice over bizz and the "real" swimbaiters but if you plan to use #25-#30 CXX you'll have to buy a bigger reel, as you'll cast any normal reel dry since it's so thick.

I think you'll hate an Xfast for cranking, especially big crankbaits. However, you might like that rod for: senkos Ikas flukes weightless plastic drop shot split shot finesse jig shakey heads sm-med t-rigs and if it's really as heavy as the ratings (which I don't think it is but could be wrong) any of the above plus a few other things.

I see why you have trouble with anything but braid... Sounds like you need to stick with braid. If it works well, why change? Even the best lines in #10 are just too light for flipping and pitchin, IMO.

For that stuff I'd look to a Revo S... if the budget is much higher perhaps something different but that will do these things very well. I had a Revo S for a while and used it in those exact applications. Only sold it because I had too many reels and didn't want it to gather dust. I'd go #17 XT or #20 Sufix (blue box) but that's just me, I don't do braid.

Mine is used as a swimbait reel.... I like it a lot.

So you just wanted recommendations? Heck, that would have been easier. ...lol RX6 or RX7 blank (depending on your budget and application) Alconites Fuji ECSM seat next question?

Start with this one... http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1120348381

The actual answer is yes, you lose some of the transmission of vibration in the joint. However, depending on how well it's built, you might not notice it or you might really notice it. Each person's hands are different. Some are super sensitive and others are like bricks... with a full range in between. What's more noticeable usually is the 2 pc version is tip heavy and out of balance compared to the 1 pc.

This was an old post but should offer some helpful hints. Also if you need more, let us know. There is usually one of us around to answer questions pretty quickly. Check your tension first. (3.5 - 4 oz) Then be sure to hold a finger on the thread as you cut it and put tag end through loop, and be sure to pull on tag end while you pull loop (yes, 3 hands would be perfect for this but you can keep tension on tag end and hold rod from spinning with one hand) lastly, 3 wraps will hold the end but on anything other than trim bands, I use more... usually 5. I practiced in the beginning using up to like 8-9 to get comfortable with it and then went less. It will come very quickly with a minimum of practice... if tension is good and you hold tension while pulling loop. Also be sure to pack your thread as you wrap... I pack on about every 4th or 5th wrap (I use thumbnail as I go) The tighter you pack the thread, the better it looks and the better it will hold the tag end that you pulled under. Sorry to get so "wordy" but as you can tell, I enjoy rodbuilding and like to help out anyone I can. If I think of other stuff, I'll post again later but I lost track of time and have to get to work! ...lol

the basics.... butt cap blank grip (cork, foam etc.) reel seat reel seat arbor winding checks (if being used) guides tip top thread thread finish epoxy (adhesive) tip top adhesive (hot melt or 2 part) decals (if being used) this only covers the rod itself, I'll try to find an old post outlining the tools and jigs you might want... to keep from writing it all out again.

Dang, that was great! ;D

Very cool, glad you guys met up!