flechero

This dude should re-read the FAQ's. ;D Been called the goose lately? ;D

That's exactly why I would have told them... to get activity going. I know people who would get friends to throw low bids out there on the first day to get it moving. They say it gets way more money if the bidding starts early...

Funny- I looked at mudhole but just looked in "cork" and "grips"... they are listed under "specials" go figure! ...lol

I couldn't live peacefully, without as buzzbait!!

for just the cork, try looking around some because the prices vary a lot for similar grades of cork. http://www.pjtackle.com/store/agora.cgi?product=cork&cart_id=7560068.5424*6B2ar0 http://www.customtackle.com/cgi-bin/cts/ctstore.cgi?page=corkgrips.html http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/shaped-cork-fishing-rod-grips/025052000006.aspx

I drill a hole in a piece of wood the exact size of the blank where the grip or seat meets. Boil for 10-15 minutes and then use the block of wood as a push tool... only push from the end to keep from tearing the cork (which gets soft when you boil it) SOmetimes a few light raps from a hammer will help in breaking it loose. Also, I cut the blank a couple inches from the grip or seat, it makes it easier to boil and to maneuver.

The one thing I didn't see mentioned was to get all slack out of the line BEFORE you set. Then hit em sharply. Most times I see people having trouble, it's when they try to rush and don't take up all the slack first... which can cause a few different problems- but all result in the same thing... a missed or lost fish. Once hooked, a t-rig (especially) w/o a pegged weight is rarely lost. I like to watch em' jump and make a ruckus, it's part of the reason Bass are so well liked.

As Glenn pointed out, the bonuses being paid are either guaranteed or based on other criteria. Often times, compensation packages are structured with bonus money guaranteed as if it were a part of the base salary. Just because AIG is in the tank, doesn't mean that some exec in the xxx division didn't have a great year. He may very well have earned his bonus and had big numbers last year. If I read correctly, only one part of the business (initially) was responsible for the huge losses. Although I don't disagree with much of the sentiment here, I also don't want the government to be able to dictate what businesses do. Obama arbitrarily calling for no bonuses to be paid is clearly indicative of someone who doesn't understand the whole situation. The more interesting lesson (I think) for all to see is that one common thread exists... rich or poor, public or private, business or personal, those people and entities with (high) debt are struggling and in many cases suffering. But what does every politician keep saying on TV... we need to make credit available, we need to lend more money to xxx and xxx , blah blah blah. more debt is not the answer...

No, it won't hurt, but probably won't last long... it usually doesn't.

I'll play the odd man out... I don't think any single bend, regardless of how severe will not permanently bend a rod. It if could, EVERY rod I own (and most people here) would permanently look as if I had a fish hanging off the end. The only exceptions I've seen are when it's leaned with a good bend in storage... over extended periods of time. (like months or years) It's far more likely that the blank was not straight to begin with and you only noticed it after the incident. As for casting... there are many variables. As to the original warranty question, the Xpeditor is unconditional, and no questions asked. They even say car doors...

The only way to actually fix it, is to replace the guide. That won't hurt sensitivity.

You are mistaken. A good argument can be made that the heavier rod is actually more sensitive. But in reality, the material is the same and the felt influence of the power is not equal between anglers.

I always said this one would never get me and it has gotten me twice now!!! Nothing like the feel of panic when you are several miles from the ramp and no plug in the boat. :-? You know what they say... there are 2 types of boaters, those that have and those that will forget the plug at some point. I can just barely reach my plug from the back deck... any idea how I figured that out? :

I hate to see anyone take a beating. Hopefully you have a rainy day or emergency fund that would carry you through some hard times. If so, I would keep the boat. If you don't, either decision has some risk.

Interesting... I use the reel only to pick up slack when fishing soft plastics and jigs... and since it picks up slack faster, your A.D.D. should like it better! ...lol

Right on, Chris.... even for the most stubborn, the rules change when you have children. I believe you give up your right to be reckless the day your wife becomes pregnant (if you didn't already when you got married). I doubt any drowning victim ever went to the lake expecting it.

Sadly, ours is also on the list of closures. The store manager emailed those of us on his list a few weeks ago about it. So now I'm limited to Academy or wal-mart for my non internet purchases... (our academy & wal-mart are not the flagship stores with big fishing sections, even though we have 2 big lakes locally)

So, some questions... 1) Can I get a good custom in the $250-$300 range. If not, what should I expect to pay for a rod like the one described above? The cost will greatly depend on the blank and amount of decorative work but you should be fine with that budget, as long as you don't want anything too exotic. 2) What sort of warranty could I expect? Each builder has a different policy. (but don't expect a free lifetime replacement type...) 3) Who are some reputable builders? I think there are many... each with their own style and strengths. As mentioned Reel Mech is very good. 4) Any other thought or things to lookout for would be appreciated. Be very specific about every detail. Build it "on paper" before releasing someone to start. Have you considered building one yourself? You seem to be handy enough to do it. No big investment required to get started. Worth thinking about.

Sure, just get a rod that favors the technique you use more.

I think they should be covered regardless of how or when. If I screw around and get hurt in my off time, my employer provided medical insurance still pays. The time of day or nature of activity shouldn't matter for Soldiers either. Agreed, and don't forget the illegal aliens! :-X

Like most people I'm sure, I really took my thumbs for granted. This is my 2 minute "pity rant" then I'll put the big boy pants back on. Almost 2 months ago I got a thumb caught in a piece of metal bending equipment and smashed it pretty good, from about half way down my nail, into the knuckle. Pretty ugly when it happened. What's left of the nail is still coming apart and the end of my thumb is incredibly tender. I have been trying to build a rod for the last several weeks but each time I start to work on it, I need my dang thumbs!! I even realized that I hold (pinch) small guides between my thumbnail and middle finger nail. Simple actions like filing guide feet, taping them up and adjusting them are monumental actions right now. Not to mention much of my thread packing is done with the right thumb nail and the tie offs are done right handed. :-/ Ok, big boy pants going back on, but I even buttoning and zipping hurts since I need my right hand for that too!

I'm amazed from the pics that the car had such little damage to the "ends" it's like it was torn in half and just skidded to a halt. The remaining body isn't even scratched up or dented much.

There is no industry standard for line diameters. There is also no industry standard for rating rods... more often then not, it's only the suggestion of the guy(s) who field tested that blank. And since no 2 of us fish exactly alike, it's only a guideline. The more important (and safest) thing is to set the drag to a percentage of the rod's line ratings.... (set it like you had ~ #12-#14 mono in that example since it's in the low-mid range) The no stretch aspect of braid accounts for more broken rods than you'd care to believe. As to the OP, use common sense and set your drag as a percentage of the lower of these: the rated line strength or the rods line rating. So if your Yo-Zuri falls above the rods ratings, set the drag as if you were using line that complies with the ratings. But if you are within specs, set it to the line rating not break strength and you won't have to worry much about breaking the rod or line on a fish.

Often times you can salvage all of it... but as said, the reel seat might not fit the new blank and the cork is also fitted. Cork grips are much tougher to salvage (w/o damage) and is a 50/50 proposition at best. (for me anyway) This is just me talking here but depending on which model rod it was, it's cheaper (if you count your time) to just start with new stuff. I do put a value on my time so I don't waste it recovering cheap components. I'd rather spend $XX on a fresh set of guides, than to pick old finish off the feet and touch them up... now if they were TiSiC or Cermets I'd gladly pick away.

Mike, Statistically speaking, less than 1/8 of 1% respond to the average thread... so if he gets 1/2 of 1% here, he'll be doing great! ...lol