BASSclary

I like to go deeper, slower, bigger. In my local area fishing spots the bite has been on isolated structure in deep water (8-12 ft). I usually throw a large bodied, deep-diving crank, and run it next to the structure, but I want to clip the structure just a little bit. After a while If I don't get bit, I'll try and pick them apart with a jig, then try a big plastic. I may throw something else into the mix also. If I still get no bites, I look for the slop. The nastiest of weeds, matted grass, and snot looking stuff to throw a frog, and occasionally punch through.

About 10 cent cheaper up here.

"Feels like" is 122 right now. Good thing lacrosse was canceled for heat today. That would've been killer (Literally) on the turf.

The crappy schematics called it a clutch bar in the parts list

Well it seems now in this job market it's more about who you know, than anything else. So I'd like to ask anyone in NOVA if they know of any good job opening, where they work, or elsewhere. Im 16 now so I can enter the real world. I'm willing to do anything, and i'm not above sweeping floors. Thanks guys! Any help is appreciated.

The (usually) plastic piece that holds the pinion gear in place and pops up and down when you press the thumb bar so the pinion gear can engage and disengage the spool.

Disregard folks

I had the clutch bar upside down

The handle turns the same when the spool is disengaged, even with the spool out. And by locked down I mean till the drag star stops turning lol

Hmmm, I dont know if that would solve the problem. It spins nicely when the drag is locked, just not when the drag is set to anything but locked.

So I was playing with my Prolite Special a few hours ago of a rod and noticed something unusual, to me atleast. When the drag is completely off, or anywhere other than locked down for that matter, it take more pressure to turn the handle. If I try to get the handle to just spin it wont more than 1 or 2 turns. BUT, if I have the drag COMPLETELY locked down, the handle can free spin for like 10 seconds. I cleaned and lubed it about a week ago and haven't touched it since until today. So i though maybe something was missing so I opened it up. Everything is there, nothing's missing. I think I may have put grease somewhere where it shouldn't be. But i'm not a reel expert. Can anyone give me an explanation? Thanks a bunch!

Braid for everywhere except rocks. Even then it's still braid with a fluorocarbon leader.

Thisyear in the colder months I changed up my game and got me some 832 at Bass Pro And I love it ! But I see Samurai staring me down, because it has a smaller diameter. 832 is 40:10 while Samurai is 40:8. Has anybody used both? They seem to be the top dogs right now in the braid market ans was wondering if you like one more than the other. Only a 5 dollar price difference too in the mid range sizes. Which do you like more? And why?

Right now it's my Gander Mountain GSX Titanium 7'2" H/F paired with a Carbonlite and 40# Sufix 832. This thing is a mean jig machine. It also does well with pitching, but I don't do that as much as I should.

If you're fishing for bass you'll be okay with just taking the first 60-70 yards off. However if your fishing for a species known to make long runs i'd fill it up all the way.

Don't most modern casting combos, even the mid-low range ones come in under a # now-a-days? St.Croix Triumph - 7' MH/F - 4.7 ounces. Random low-pro casting reel - lets say 10 ounces at most. It still comes in at less than a #. Not trying to argue, but I think less than 10 ounces in impressive. 8 Ounces is even better. Not trying to argue with you J. Edit: Just saw Glenn's post. It's under 9 oz. That's pretty impressive. Abu is stepping their game up. Still need some work in the looks department though.

First post is a smiley face bumping an almost year old thread?? C'mon now..

Big football head jigs and 7" Worms

So basically hollow core braid with fluoro in it?.

Seaguar InvizX. 10-12 #

This. Get em' while you still can before the new model comes out. The new model looks like a downgrade. You can get em' at BPS for the same price too if your more comfortable shopping in-store.

WileyX and Oakley lenses wont even scratch from that. I know first hand. I had a 1/2 oz football whack me in the eye when I was wearing my first pair of oakley's. That's the quality of great sunglasses. However if you're looking for the best quality fishing glasses, it's definitely Costa Del Mar. I got the permit frames with the 580 glass green mirror lenses and man, its like the perfect view of the world! they fit my head frame so nicely, and ZERO light comes in around the edges. Its like turning nasty water into crystal clear water. I too used to use berkely cheap-o's. I though they were good because I could see about 2 foot into the water. With the costa's I can see almost everything! However, if you dont want top shell out almost $200 for Costa 580's my next choice would be Wiley X. I like their frames better than the Oakleys but less than the Costa's. Thats and some come with a foam liner to block out all light from the edges. I think their lenses are a bit better and definitely more impact resistant than Oakleys. The Oakley's can still blow any cheap-os out of the water. But I highly recommend Costa 580 glass green mirror for fresh water in your frame of choosing. Blue if you fish a lot of saltwater.

The Yo-Zuri is great stuff RW knows what he's talking about.

This.

Word. Im eligible for work this summer(since the 12th) so I can get a nice lineup of Dobyns and Powell's(man I love Extra Fast tips!) with some Daiwa reels