QUAKEnSHAKE

I will use frogs or senko or Ika on this stuff

Does trouble free include no digging of the line on spool???

Try out the- through the eye twice 6 turn uni knot. Tag can be very minimal around 1/4". This knot beat the palomar knot head-to-head. I tried both with 6#nanofil small dia and the uni held 50% more weight.

Works outstandingly for me hook-up % is great with straight shank hook and I use a small size hook #2. I think something to do with the thinner wire. Cant say though that I never have lost a bass while it jumped on me but I try my best not to let it jump in the first place. Oh just to toss this out, did you check to make sure the hook was sharp and wasnt rounded or dull??? Used to catch my previous PB

Quite a number of reports that the line is noisy so that puts it off my radar. PPS8S and Smackdown are said to be quieter. I know PPS8S is quieter than Smackdown.

I think they are a great fish to catch. Just dont like losing lures while bass fishing very happy every time I land one.

Northland mimic minnow jighead, Keitech 3.8 fat impact

WOLFY

A 30 size I think would be a better fit. I have a 30 on my 7'6" M/F croix rod.

I lightly oil the drum on all my cent brake reels

No, with any lure/style you choose you have to move it create a disturbance. I dont move too quickly or a bass trying to get through might have poor timing and miss. Try wiggling in place or short bounces to get water movement under the matt work back towards you. Find a hole let it drop and then sit for a few seconds if its shallow. Work nearly the whole slop area cause at times you have to be on top right over the bass for it to strike, just one foot away from a prior pass you make could be a bass waiting. Though I have seen slop being moved by the bass coming to strike thats exciting. Here it comes here it comes BAM!!

-Let line out and drag behind boat to get twist out -Tie knots carefully so as not to burn/kink line in process Thats pretty much sop for FC

I use wacky senko style a lot for that purpose. Senko(or preferred stik bait) will drag/hop easily across the top for any bites there and when you come to a little opening it will drop for potential bite in hole. I use weedless guard hook and it helps. With the exposed hook I feel I get better hook-ups. This with 7" SK ocho

Do you have/use Mend-it?

If you're on the bank throwing wacky stick or texposed any distance you may regret 7# fluoro. I use 10 and 12# sniper and miss hook up at distance 75'-100' due to stretch at times. Unless the 7' medium is on the stronger side for a medium rod. Too If you will encounter any more than moderate weedy situation or matts 15-20# braid will let you toss in weeds on matts with better confidence to get it out away. Will be able to work the stik through weeds better/easier as well. I would also say 10# braid would be good, I got a previous PB with 10# braid tossing topwater frog on slop with 6'6" M/F rod. If you're in mostly open waters close quarters then try the fluoro with the line management hassles sprays what not. Drop shotting twist will effect fluoro worse than braid. Throwing wacky rigs put lots of line twist in line the stick spins like propeller at times.

I agree 100% with John G get the braid on TIGHT. 1st thing that came to my mind when saw the pics was line too loose. The first pic spool looks fuller than the 3rd pic is it just the angle of the photo? The 3rd pic looks too low needs more line. If thats a full 150yd spool of line you can add mono line to fill it under the braid.

Ive not used 40# in these products but I have used 10-15-20# in both. Other than noise level not really any difference to me casting difference is negligible. Once my PP runs out though dont think Ill ever buy any more just really prefer 8 carrier/strand lines now. Me I just wait til s8s goes on sale for $15 or so.

PPS8S going to be much quieter and smoother other than that will cost more.

I dont think its bad at all. I do very well in clear waters doing it. Because of this though Ill differ with the others about only using 75 yards per spool. It would actually cost less overall filling spool full of braid and then as it gets used start adding backing of mono to bring back to capacity. A frog can be tossed rather far and once you get to the connection knot(weak point) on a cast that is when to get rid of what is left and put new line. So if you use just a top shot you will be losing say 100'+ of line, if you do this 2 times per spool you lose a total of 200'. Now if you use just straight braid to fill the spool you after time will only lose 100' saving100' of line. Some people say/think a full spool of braid casts better than when using mono to fill the spool.

Do you use a leader or run straight braid to lure?

1 through 10 I use braid 5,8,10 I do use fluoro now and then. If while using briad I need some give Ill use a more moderate action rod or lighten up on the drag.

Did you try loosening it til you get a little side to side play?

My general braid use- I run straight braid and just retie down the line as I change lures. This I do for one season then during off season take line off turn and use the other end. I continue to do this till the line gets too short to use make a full cast. All braids I have used last me many years 4 to10+. Of course new braids come out that I want to try so I now have used spools of braid hanging waiting for maybe a spur of the moment reel purchase. On my 10+ year old 10# power pro Ive tested the strength of it and it still holds to 14# at least.

Youll get there this was my first 5 and 6 pounder previous biggest was 4pound 5 ounces

I prefer a larger spool size for better line management less hassle so would say go for 25 2500 size reel. I have a 1000 size stradic but prefer my 30 size XT with 6# line throwing bitsy minnows plus the weights are nearly the same. If you can get a larger reel in the weight you want I feel that would be the way to go. I have a 20 size pflueger and would only run braid on it the spool is so small.