deep

No weedguard is best- if the cover allows it. Followed by a finesse worm weedguard. That M-Pack jig seems to be rather expensive, and still doesn't seem to solve the real problem- the jig rolling over when the bass crunches down on it. Twin weedguard jigs have worked pretty well for me, but they seem to run on the expensive side too. At least the Nu-tech ones that I like. Good luck.

I'm a little confused why these two are the primary variables, and everything else are *aids*. Let me elaborate. The depth control part I understand. If the fish isn't where I'm fishing, I'm not going to catch it. Pretty straightforward. Asides: Siemantel talks about this in his top, middle, bottom theory. I've seen them preferring to eat topwaters only (in water deeper than 25 feet), and of course bass don't live on the surface. It's the speed control part I don't agree with. How are size and action both aids, and speed is not? (Let's leave color out of the discussion for now). In general, I find "slow" is a good speed to fish my baits (there are exceptions). It's the easiest of the three variables to dial in, in my humble opinion. Murphy talks about painting part of a big dark crankbait with nailpolish. Why? Because size was the trigger, and he wanted to fish a small bait (make his bait appear small) down deep, where an actual small crank couldn't get down to. Think about all the different kinds of suspending jerkbaits out there. Some are aggressive (x-raps for example), some others are not. What about all the different kinds of jig trailers. I've seen them prefer DT grubs one day, and beaver style ones the next. "Forget action, only consider how fast you move the lure". Not sure I agree with this. My hypothesis is that size and action are/ can be independent of retrieve speed or depth, and all three of them are equally important. Thoughts?

Upload your pics on a photo sharing website like photobucket. You'll find a link/ links to share your pic(s). Copy and paste the appropriate link(s) in your post.

Daiwa Samurai.

Don't have one, sorry. All of mine are either 5.x:1 or 6.x:1. Maybe y'all can convince me to buy one. (And catch more fish?)

You can trade it for a rod that you'll actually use. Or return it if that's an option.

They haven't migrated yet, lol.

Help me understand this a little better. 1. You want a pitching rod, correct? 2. What do you want to spend on it? 3. Do you also want a reel? Yes/ no. 4. If yes, what do you want to spend on it (the reel)? 5. You also want some input on the Lexa- as a pitching reel- correct?

All this color talk have proved to be a bunch of nonsense in my experience. Colors matter, but not the way we usually think. Just 'cause it looks like a shad to me doesn't mean it looks like a shad to a bass. As long as there are certain shades/ colors (that bass prefer) on the bait I'm fishing, I'm good. I couldn't care less if the color pattern is *called* threadfin shad, or tilapia. Most of our baits are so unrealistic, that a realistic pattern means little. You can paint a zebra like a leopard, but it still looks, walks and behaves like the zebra it is.

Thank you Sir for the reminder.

Umm, the same way you tie knots with 20 pound line?

Over the internet lol. Check his facebook page (Mike Gilbert); lots of cool pics and videos.

1000 size is ultralight territory. 2 or 4# mono or equivalent diameter braid should work fine.

A stick if there ever was one. That dude taught me to fish hudds.

Tatsu. Why do you feel you need fluoro with a spinnerbait? There are cheaper lines that will work just as well.

Might need to work on your thumbing skills then. Invizx is one of the better handling fluoros. What lb test did you use?

What are you guys talking about. Smooth as silk.

Why are you so hell-bent on catching small fish? If number of bites is what you're after, fish for bluegills.

I keep my thumb over the spool during the cast, not on it. Thumb braking is applied only when I feel a fluff coming on, which isn't often. I set my reels (all Shimanos) pretty loose too.

Fixed it. You're welcome.

Here's an idea. Another site has a sub forum called Hot Deals. Go over there, and start browsing posts from a year back, you might find your answers.

Bill's book talks about a lot of little things I haven't seen elsewhere. As I'm sure you know, details matter. He is a very good teacher, no matter what else he might or might not have done. Catching bass of shadow lines definitely work. I know because I've done it.

How's the abrasion resistance, and knot strength, guys?